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How to Maximize Stock Calipers

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Planckscale

15+ Year Contributor
108
2
Oct 16, 2007
Tanzania, Africa
I am looking for new ways on How to maximize the stock braking system.
Specifically, by keeping the 2g AWD calipers, the rest can be upgraded as long as there is minimum to no hacking. I am discouraged by the mods needed to get the evo8-10, 3000gt, or the CTSV calipers to fit in a 2g. The Oulander calipers on the other hand, are same 2-piston as the 2g.

So for the moment I am aiming at keeping my AWD 2g calipers and just upgrade the supporting accessories. So please, what is the latest and best stainless lines, big and light-weight rotors, best pads....


Thanks in advance.
 
Well, consider the following:

1-DBA rotors (XS PREMIUM). they may be the best OE replacement/performance rotors out there in my opinion.

2- GOODRIDGE SS brake lines, - Eliminates sponginess under heavy braking, increases braking efficiency and abrasion and corrosion resistant.

3-IF your car is equipped with ABS consider removing it with parts from a donor non ABS model or buying a ABS delete kit, this will remove the possibility of ABS failure and increase in brake response.

4- replace all brake fluid with the PTE superblue brake fluid, this high performance brake fluid is ideal for road racing, autocross, and high performance driving. Exceeds all DOT 4 requirements. Dry boiling point 536° F, wet boiling point 396° F. This fluid is NOT SILICONE and is compatible with conventional brake fluid. and its blue, I think it looks cool in my cars too)

5-EBC redstuff brake pads, they brake like an alligator right from cold (as good as Original pads or better) and just get better as they heat up.

you can choose which ever ones to do but a combination of all will change the way you brake forever.
 
You should try the single pot brakes from a gst....... God you would hate them LOL. Grab some new fluid and ebc green or red pads(like stated above, red is better)
 
Well, consider the following:

1-DBA rotors (XS PREMIUM). they may be the best OE replacement/performance rotors out there in my opinion.

2- GOODRIDGE SS brake lines, - Eliminates sponginess under heavy braking, increases braking efficiency and abrasion and corrosion resistant.

3-IF your car is equipped with ABS consider removing it with parts from a donor non ABS model or buying a ABS delete kit, this will remove the possibility of ABS failure and increase in brake response.

4- replace all brake fluid with the PTE superblue brake fluid, this high performance brake fluid is ideal for road racing, autocross, and high performance driving. Exceeds all DOT 4 requirements. Dry boiling point 536° F, wet boiling point 396° F. This fluid is NOT SILICONE and is compatible with conventional brake fluid. and its blue, I think it looks cool in my cars too)

5-EBC redstuff brake pads, they brake like an alligator right from cold (as good as Original pads or better) and just get better as they heat up.

you can choose which ever ones to do but a combination of all will change the way you brake forever.

I like the GOODRIDGE SS lines and PTE superblue brake fluid suggestions.
I think the ABS is important for our roads down here where often you find a patch of sand has blown over the tarmac road. Very handy as it can get slippery when braking.

Are the EBC redstuff better than Hawk plus? I have been considering Hawk, but...
 
Hawk makes very good pads as well. although I have only used restuff in my dsm I have used hawk pads on my evo. If you are only considering the two for the price you can choose which ever one you find cheaper, they are both good performers.
 
Even thought im on single pot gst calipers ive just put dba 6slot rotors on the front with hawk ceramic pads and i have to say its a real improvment on the brakes, i have been running ebc pads and discs for a while and although i like the red stuff i feel they are not as good as the hawk ceramic pads, and i wont personally use ebc pads again not because there bad but hawk is the best pad so far ive found to push the limits of my braking needs
 
I put power slot rotors(1g awds) and hawk hp+ pads on the front and it was a big difference. Brake pressure to stop decreased and hard braking stops my car quick.

Just the dam squeaking from these pads is so annoying. I have to take them off and smooth those bloody edges.
 
I have to especially agree with number 3 in James's above post. I generally remove the ABS from my DSMs and you can feel a difference. You're foot will feel more in tune with the brake system and the "spongey-ness" will lessen.

Where I live, the winters can make for very slippery conditions, especially on urban hills and mountain roads. I've always been fine without ABS though. You just have to be able to modulate the braking and "pulse" the pedal yourself.

BTW: how did your DSM get to Africa? It must be a pretty rare sight in that part of the world. Any pictures of your Eclipse with Kilimanjaro in the background :)
 
Shipped from NYC!
I have own this car since 1999. 2002 my stock turbo went south. A drive to Turbotrix in NJ changed everything. In 2005, I moved back home and took the eclipse with me.

But guess what, someone had already gotten one there, and we have become friends. So we are two now, but only mine is moded. Actual there was one 1g non-turbo also but hasn't seen it around in last 3 years. Down here most people are in Subarus. Very few Evos, apart from the rally cars (ever heard of the east African rally? It is one of the biggest in East Africa). Kilimanjaro is about 450 miles from my city, one day I will drive out there and take a snap.


Back to topic:
I also have in my garage one of those discontinued AEM big brake kits with the caliper relocation brackets. Installing those with new pads, blue fluid, stainless lines I should then be good to go...right?

Anything else?
 
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