How much Paint??

[Miasma]

I've nearly completed all my body work, and my engine bay is stripped down. I'm doing a full body color change, engine bay, door jams, and hatch.

Will a gallon of paint enough, or way to much?

Also I'd like to have some opinion on my color choice, since I've been thinking about this for awhile and keep changing my mind. I want a dark tone on the exterior, because my interior is black and black cherry.

My thoughts are either:

Midnight Black Pearl
Midnight Black with Red Pearl top coat (dark redish black when in the light)
Barcelona Red Pearl Metallic
Black Cherry

I'm leaning towards the black with red pearl top coat. Going to be coating my suspension components as well with a dark purpley red color.

 

[92AWDHX40]

ITs going to depend on the paint you get and how good a job you want, if you make mistakes a gallon could be enough or not enough, get a gallon if you choose. Paint it and if you feel you need to do it again go for it, youll need clear and hardner and reducer so account for all that. Ive done it and im doing mine again but i didnt buy gallons i used quarts. It will be a learning experience if you havent done it before.

 

[Miasma]

I think I'll be good with a gallon of base coat, the midnight black I am looking at is a premium acrylic single stage with a 3:1 ratio. It's 120 for the gallon of base and a quart of activator.

Will 5 quarts of clear be enough to do 3 coats? I have painted before, I've just never had to order the paint before.

 

[sccrbrandon4788]

3 quarts, or gallon if you want extra for touch-ups down the road. With reducer, depending on brand, you'll get 1.25 gallons when reduced. You won't need as much of the pearl top coat if you decide to go that way, since you'll only be doing 1 coat. Most of the time you can only buy clear coat in a gallon, just fyi. I painted everything but under the hood and used 1/2 gallon of basecoat. I like having the extra because I bought some Talon twisty side skirts and had paint left over to paint them.

EDIT: Posted at the same time as you, didn't know you were doing single stage. You will probably same more by doing a urethane basecoat, and it will be more compatible with the pearl and clear.

 

[jasonj92]

Yeh depends on the paint color and type cheaper paint won't cover as good etc , omni but the more expensive stuff chromabase , etc will cover better less coats. Also if you are gonna use a sealer before painting that will affect it too. Is the color currently darker or lighter than the color u want. Usually base is reduced 1:1 so u would end up with 2 gallons spray able. That's a lot of paint.

 

[bastarddsm]

Good paint a gallon will be close. Cheap paint 2 gallons. I painted mine in 06 with omni mbc took 2 gallons of blue. And a qt of black.

 

[92AWDHX40]

When i paint i use ppg base coat then at least 2 coats of clear if not 3, remember if you think you need more get more you dont want to be left with not enough, and if your doing a metalic i like to get it all done at one time or any kind of pearl, im doing p88 on my car soon, but the engine bay is being done by a rattle can looks pretty good with a oem color cayenne red. Two coats so you can wetsand and buff out the runs if you have any.

 

[sccrbrandon4788]

Oh and use a primer. I found out the hard way that any color variation you paint over will change the color of the basecoat, except for maybe black.

 

[Miasma]

The car is currently silver, but it will all be primed first. I had to do a lot of bondo and fiberglassing.

The base coat I'm looking at is from eastwood...Eastwood Midnight Metallic Black Gallon Kit
Eastwood sells clear by quarts.

I might simply prime and rattle can my engine bay for simplicity, along with a rattle can clear coat.

The body will be primed a lighter tone, white or light grey, so that if I do the red pearl top coat it will be more distinguished in the sun light.

 

[jasonj92]

Isn't there a auto paint supply store near instead of ordering it online?
That way if u have problem with it color not what u expected etc
Cost should be similar for good paint reds and pearls can get $$
But I guess its up to you

 

[Miasma]

I'm sure there probably is one here in Calgary, just need to look around.

 

[1slow03cobra]

Your color choices are deff for a expert painter but it can be done.. Make sure the body is perfect because it will show everyythinnnngggg

 

[Miasma]

Your color choices are deff for a expert painter but it can be done.. Make sure the body is perfect because it will show everyythinnnngggg

I've spent months doing this body work, because I want it perfect. I still have some left to do but the end is near so I needed to start thinking about paint. I have painted before, but I wouldn't call myself an expert and shops around here want thousands to do it. So I'm going to do it on my own, but I'm confident that it will turn out well.

Every inch of this cars rebuild has been done personally, and I hope to keep that way.

Thanks for all the responses.

 

[ChunkyLover53]

You threw out quite a few terms there like metallic and pearl. You were also talking about base somewhere, then I heard rattle can the engine bay. This sounds kind of strange to me, because you are talking about high quality job mixed with crap?

Then I saw your link to the eastwood paint. That is a single stage metallic. I would advise you not to attempt that, because it can be a real problem if you mess it up.

To get a couple terms out of the way here,

Metallic - I would say this is basically paint with tiny metal flakes in it. New cars have paint with high metallic content when you walk up to them and see it sparkle all over.

Pearl - I would say this is an "Intercoat" base that has a tint to it. Something that changes the appearance of the base coat slightly in certain light.

Although, there are some base coats that have metallics and pearls mixed into them.

Now the problem with single stage metallic is that the clear is mixed in with the color. If you mess up, and the metallics come out blotchy or they sag then there is no way to fix it without sanding it all down again and repainting it.

If you base coat it, then you have a window to fix little nibs and problems before you clear on top of it.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful, but it just sounds a little unclear about your direction. Maybe you can clear this up and we can give you some advice if you need it.

 

[Miasma]

Ok that makes sense, I was trying to differentiate the terms between single stage and others.

What I am looking for is a midnight black metallic to use as my base coat after primer. Then apply one coat maybe two of dark rose pearl powder mixed with clear coat. Finished with 2-3 coats of clear.

I want it to have the natural black shimmer, and deep red tone up close. I found a ppg supplier in Calgary that I will be going to, too talk to them about the best paint for what I want. I'm not looking to spend a fortune on this, just looking for decent paint that will look good. The rose pearl is $11/25g

 

[ChunkyLover53]

I see. That makes quite a bit more sense.

I completely understand your situation now.

Every paint supplier, whether it be DuPont, PPG, or other will have their value lines. Nason for DuPont, Omni for PPG. If you are doing an overall paint job, I see no reason why to not use them. Their downfall in my opinion would be coverage and color matching, but if you're painting your entire car there is nothing to match anyways.

Unfortunately if you want something specific, you will have to visit them for at least the base coat.

Otherwise, if you want something that's already pre mixed you could visit someplace online like Amazing Savings on Quality Custom Car Paint Colors or eastwood or whatever. I have never used them, but if you like some of their colors I think it would be just fine.

In my opinion, primer and clear can get a bit pricey from one of the major paint suppliers though. See what they can offer you as far as primers and clears go, but make sure you shop around online as well.

I'm not a rep for anyone, but my personal favorite for primers and clears is Southern Polyurethanes Inc. They make top quality products at an affordable price.

Pricing Info

I'm assuming if your body work is pretty close to straight you will be able to get away with a 2k regular build primer, and the clears is up to you. SPI's stuff is all top notch. I have used the production clear and the universal clear. The production clear is nice on the wallet, and gives an amazing finish. Universal clear is quite amazing, because the gloss, UV protection, and buff ability are amazing. I have buffed out that clear 1-2 years after spraying it and it's still as easy as the day after it was finished. For production clear, I would say you'd probably want to buff it within 7 days for the best result and easiest time with it.

There are also plenty of other chemical companies that offer primers and clears. Check out Kirker, and I think Eastwood just rebrands their primers and clears as their own but they are really Kirker.

 

[Miasma]

I see. That makes quite a bit more sense.

I completely understand your situation now.

Every paint supplier, whether it be DuPont, PPG, or other will have their value lines. Nason for DuPont, Omni for PPG. If you are doing an overall paint job, I see no reason why to not use them. Their downfall in my opinion would be coverage and color matching, but if you're painting your entire car there is nothing to match anyways.

Unfortunately if you want something specific, you will have to visit them for at least the base coat.

Otherwise, if you want something that's already pre mixed you could visit someplace online like Amazing Savings on Quality Custom Car Paint Colors or eastwood or whatever. I have never used them, but if you like some of their colors I think it would be just fine.

In my opinion, primer and clear can get a bit pricey from one of the major paint suppliers though. See what they can offer you as far as primers and clears go, but make sure you shop around online as well.

I'm not a rep for anyone, but my personal favorite for primers and clears is Southern Polyurethanes Inc. They make top quality products at an affordable price.

Pricing Info

I'm assuming if your body work is pretty close to straight you will be able to get away with a 2k regular build primer, and the clears is up to you. SPI's stuff is all top notch. I have used the production clear and the universal clear. The production clear is nice on the wallet, and gives an amazing finish. Universal clear is quite amazing, because the gloss, UV protection, and buff ability are amazing. I have buffed out that clear 1-2 years after spraying it and it's still as easy as the day after it was finished. For production clear, I would say you'd probably want to buff it within 7 days for the best result and easiest time with it.

There are also plenty of other chemical companies that offer primers and clears. Check out Kirker, and I think Eastwood just rebrands their primers and clears as their own but they are really Kirker.

Thanks for the links, I have been looking on eastwood as well as some others. I'm hoping to pick up or order my paint online this week. However finding a solid weekend to paint is going to be tricky right now. I expect in a few weeks I will have it done.

I'll post up some pictures later of all the body work I had to do, along with the finished paint job for you guys to see how it turns out.

 

[sccrbrandon4788]

I ordered a complete painting kit from thecoatingstore.com . It came with a gallon of base color, gallon of clear, all hardeners and reducers, strainers and stir sticks. Paint looks really nice. $170 for a jet black kit of urethane, then you can get a bottle of Deep Red pearl powder for $20 and $25 for a quart of midcoat to mix it in. All-in-all, $250 shipped and you'll have all the materials you need, besides the spray gun and respirator.

 

[Miasma]

That's what I'm thinking, I've got all the respirators and may be able to borrow my friends gun. If not then I will just buy my own. I can't wait to paint my car. I'm going to order the Tahitian Black Pearl Base Coat kit, comes with gallon of base and clear plus hardener and reducer. Along with Screamin' Deep Red Xirallic Pearl which will total 229.97 plus shipping.

I picked it up about a year ago now, and rebuild the body and fixed all the damage. I finally got around to pulling the engine, and interior. It's time to truly rebuild this car from the ground up, and I'm going to start a build thread for this eventually.

 

[sccrbrandon4788]

I used a Harbor Frieght gun (66222) and it worked GREAT! Laid the paint and clear very flat and very little orange peel. The orange peel that I did get was my fault from being too far away or moving too fast, had very little room in the 1 car garage I sprayed in. I can't wait to paint something else.

 

[Miasma]

I'm still working on finding a place to spray it. I looked at the cost to rent a spray booth in town and don't want to spend that much money on it. So I'm stuck looking for a friend willing to let me spray in their garage.

My entire build has been done outside, even during the winter.

 

[sccrbrandon4788]

If its a 2 car garage, hope they let you use it. Warn them it will smell up their house for days, so they'll want their windows open and HVAC off. I considered building a PVC and plastic tent to keep bugs and dust out. Would have gone that way if I didn't have a garage and wanted to spend the extra money on parts. I think I was going to do 15'x25' so I had plenty of room to move around the car.