How Much Boost?

[PhoenixGSX]

I am having my engine rebuilt as I type this thread and am doing a lot of modding. My question is fairly basic and trying to find such a basic answer is like trying to find a hooker in church. What I am doing:

2.3 stroker w/ forged pistons eagle rods (7 bolt)
cometic head gasket
rebuilt 2g head
greddy rs
uip
stock sic
255 hp fuel pump
650 injectors
Evo III 16g
some other SH*T

How much boost would be safe to run with this set up.
Also if you have any input on my setup, tell me about it.
Thanks!

 

[Nanan]

Well..

Was the block and head decked to ensure they are totally flat?
Did you use ARP head studs/bolts?
Do you have some sort of fuel control such as an AFC or DSMLink?
Do you have an FPR?


If yes to the above then you should be able to push any psi you want untill you get knock which will likely be 18-20psi. You would be limited by the stock smic due to its inability to cool the intake charge.

/edit = You need to upgrade that stock bov, it will leak like a mofo at 10+ psi.

 

[PhoenixGSX]

i have everything except safc which will come SOON!
btw i have a greddy type rs bov

 

[Mackzero]

Spring for the DSMLink, as it will make your life much easier when tuning, especially in your case with the side mount.

 

[Defiant]

My question is fairly basic and trying to find such a basic answer is like trying to find a hooker in church.

You're going to the wrong church. We believe in the First Church of Search.

 

[dsm_illicious]

With those mods a FMIC might be a good idea as well...

 

[Slippi84]

This is a very subjective answer it's like saying how much hp is my car gonna make when I slap this this and this on. It's how you tune it, it's the condition of your engine. There a whole bunch of variables to look for which will make you car diffrent from anyone else who has your similar setup. Best advice is to make sure you have a logger I didn't see if you had one or not get ATLEAST an safc and tune away the knock and raise boost as long as you can keep knock below 7 and see where you end up.

 

[PhoenixGSX]

yeah, thanks. safc is NEXT on the list...hopefully REALLY soon!

 

[Mackzero]

Remember that the DSMLink is one a couple hundred more than an SAFC, and when you figure in $100-150 for a datalogging setup, it just makes sense to go DSMLink and have it all in one shot. I have tuned cars with SAFCs and DSMLink is 100 times better honestly. Just save up the $ and get it done once, the right way.

 

[rowlex]

if your building a 2.3l you need dsmlink. buy it.

safe boost? run 12lbs.

 

[PhoenixGSX]

To be honest, I have no idea the difference between dsmlink and safc. Looks like dsmlink is the way to go.

12lbs?! You have to be kidding!! I ran 15 on stock internals.

But that may be the reason I am waiting for a rebuild to be completed.

 

[rowlex]

To be honest, I have no idea the difference between dsmlink and safc. Looks like dsmlink is the way to go.

12lbs?! You have to be kidding!! I ran 15 on stock internals.

But that may be the reason I am waiting for a rebuild to be completed.

Safc: piggy back fuel computer -- thats IT.
dsmlink: http://www.dsmlink.com/index.html

He asked what safe boost would be, if he doesn't know and he's building a 2.3L motor, safe boost is 12psi. Every car is different, especially when your taking a 2.0l and turning it into a 2.3L. You better get DSMLink, your gonna have a hell of a time without it.

If you want to figure out what your "safe" boost level is, get dsmlink, log a few pulls(after your fuel trims are accurate) at 12psi, then up the boost incrementally, when it starts knocking pull some timing until the knock goes away and leave your boost at that setting -- where your getting no knock.

 

[PhoenixGSX]

what about getting a maf and maft? then an safc? that is what was recommended to me.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Internals are not the restriction in your setup, your stock SMIC is.

Once you get up to 17ish psi you are going to heatsoak it rather quickly.

Now if you had a FMIC you could run 22psi no problem, even if you were still on the stock Internals

 

[rowlex]

what about getting a maf and maft? then an safc? that is what was recommended to me.

no. get dsmlink, you will thank us later--after you buy your maft/safc/loggercombo/chip, and have to blow even more money to upgrade to dsmlink.

 

[GVR4592]

I'm running 25 psi on my completely stock engine, and I've seen guys kill their engines with 10 psi.. It all depends on how you tune it. I've used everything for tuning (chips, safc/logger, dsmlink, aem ems), dsmlink is probably the best bet for your setup.

 

[92awddsm]

In a perfect world with a perfect tune and a perfect setup, I wouldnt hesitate to run 35 psi. Now, with a side mount, the perfect setup is shot to shit so you are on your own.

 

[THE_ARTIST_]

why a 2.3 with a 16G? a 2.0 would probibly do just as good.

get a FMIC

 

[PhoenixGSX]

i was rebuilding my engine anyway, and 2.3 is not that much more money wise. there is aparently a lot more stuff that 5000.00 didn't cover that i need ie. fmic and dsm link.

 

[Slippi84]

OL 5k and you think it wasn't that much more for 800 bucs you could have got forged rods and pistons and a mls HG another 100 for arp head studs and worse case 300 for a forged knifed crank and say 1k for machining everything and install.

1k install
800 pistons/rods/MLS hg
300 Crank
100 Arp head studs
=2400

That's half of what you paid and you could have used the rest of the monet to buy something like a FP3065 FMIC and been 3/4ths way toward a 10 sec car. But hey that stroker will spool up a bigger turbo faster but thing is you don't have money for a bigger turbo now .

 

[XakEp]

Now now now... Play nice. Not everyone has the benefit of putting their own motors together and have to pay someone else for the labor.

Either way, I'd agree with the others. Get a FMIC asap and DSMlink. It'll make your life alot easier. Think of those as an investment into reliability for your car.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

i would agree with everyone else. i have only used dsmlink to tune my car and even my dumb a$$ found it really simple to use.

jim

 

[PhoenixGSX]

sorry, I have not had the benefit of being in the dsm community for a long time...most of that time the car has been fu**ing broke. (if it were any other car I would run the pos off a bridge as an insurance job) so, needless to say I have no idea wtf I am doing, and any time you post something on this site as far as an openion or suggestion you get some smart ass answer from some snotty punk like "you could be half way to a 10 sec car with half the money" or "try search."

 

[PhoenixGSX]

BTW, 5000.00 includes:
Greddy type rs BOV
Water Pump
Oil Pump
UIP
HP fuel pump
FPR
-6an lines
Fidanza Flywheel
SBR clutch
stroker kit (ie crank, rods, and pistons)
commetic HP HG
Ballance/Lighten/Install
Ballance Shaft remover kit
650cc injectors
and i am probably forgetting something

needless to say that my setup WOULD cost twice as much as your setup

 

[PhoenixGSX]

completely rebuilt head and arp studs TOO!!! and prob still forgetting something..