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how can i get 300hp on a budget

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DO NOT attempt the goal of 300whp with the stock 1g maf. When your 1g maf drops counts you will crack your 600whp capable 6 bolt pistons you already have in your car.

Maft, or 2g maf w/safc (tuned for 550s)
Wally 255hp
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (pressure set at 60psi)
Ebay FMIC (biggest is best)
Full 3" exhaust
16g turbine housing (don't bother with a complete turbo upgrade, 14b compressor flows 34lb/min, more than enough for goal)
Hard intercooler piping

So you can do it with stock injectors. 60psi base pressure puts 450s at 550cc/min flow and the wally 255hp flows PLENTY at 30psi boost plus 60psi base fuel pressure to still deal out 400whp worth of fuel flow. You will not need more than perhaps 22ish psi to see your goal with the stock longblock and the 7cm^2 16g turbine housings. You really should get an AFPR upgrade if you get the wally255 anyway. Might as well make the most of it.

Get tunerstein as a logger for free +plus cable cost. You can't do any of this blind.
 
As I stated, manual is not going to affect the HP output neither is automatic. What the other poster was saying, I don't know. You on the otherhand are just stating a turbo in general which is NOT transmission type.

You really won't spend "more" money as the other parts you would buy would be supporting mods. What you mean to say is you would be out of the effiency range of that turbo where as the 14b you would still be in it but nearing the end.

The OP basically said his car is stock, Hence if the car was automatic in stock form with a 13G the power goals would be hard to achieve based off of running a 13G .
I was never implying that performance would differ solely between transmissions, I agree. However in stock form the 13G lacks top end power disgustingly.

Yes, you would need the same supporting mods if you were trying to achieve 300whp with the 13G, but to harness that much power out of such a small turbo would be impractical in time, effort, and additional cost when upgrading to even a slightly bigger turbo(14b) at a relatively low cost - would be much more effective to ascertain these goals.

Apply these same modifications:
  • Walbro 255
  • AFPR
  • 680cc injectors
  • SAFC/MAFT etc.
  • MBC
  • Turboback exhaust
  • 2G Maf or larger
Hell, the 255 and AFPR aren't even needed - a rewired 190 would suffice. Apply the same modifications to a 13G as opposed to the same car running a 16G or even a little 14B and it's clear one of these two larger turbo's is a practical solution to the OPs goal. The 14B has gotten members into 11s, yes at higher boost levels you are pushing the turbo out of it's efficiency range - at the same time a 13G could not achieve without failure. Am I saying impossible? No, you can spend the R&D building a very specific application to get to these horsepower levels with the 13G in it's happy-medium efficiency range - I'm sure but again, this takes time and a lot of money.

At any point, I stated the turbo's max CFM capabilities because - well how else are you going to get more air without doing major engine modifications.

DSM-onster's method of rising the FP + mod list would even be more practical for a budget 300whp goal.
 
The OP basically said his car is stock, Hence if the car was automatic in stock form with a 13G the power goals would be hard to achieve based off of running a 13G .
I was never implying that performance would differ solely between transmissions, I agree. However in stock form the 13G lacks top end power disgustingly.

Yes, you would need the same supporting mods if you were trying to achieve 300whp with the 13G, but to harness that much power out of such a small turbo would be impractical in time, effort, and additional cost when upgrading to even a slightly bigger turbo(14b) at a relatively low cost - would be much more effective to ascertain these goals.

Apply these same modifications:
  • Walbro 255
  • AFPR
  • 680cc injectors
  • SAFC/MAFT etc.
  • MBC
  • Turboback exhaust
  • 2G Maf or larger
Hell, the 255 and AFPR aren't even needed - a rewired 190 would suffice. Apply the same modifications to a 13G as opposed to the same car running a 16G or even a little 14B and it's clear one of these two larger turbo's is a practical solution to the OPs goal. The 14B has gotten members into 11s, yes at higher boost levels you are pushing the turbo out of it's efficiency range - at the same time a 13G could not achieve without failure. Am I saying impossible? No, you can spend the R&D building a very specific application to get to these horsepower levels with the 13G in it's happy-medium efficiency range - I'm sure but again, this takes time and a lot of money.

At any point, I stated the turbo's max CFM capabilities because - well how else are you going to get more air without doing major engine modifications.

DSM-onster's method of rising the FP + mod list would even be more practical for a budget 300whp goal.

I understand what you are talking about that the 14b would be a big upgrade over the 13t. Eitherway, both of those turbos would require the same upgrades to reach to those numbers. The 14b would make it there easier as it has a bit more flow. Not to mention, any supporting mods now will allow easier upgrading possiblities in the future.

I think what I meant to say is even if he had a 13t, it's still good for some decent numbers and is still better than the T-25. Since he has the 14b, it just makes this bickering a waste of time but informative as well.
 
Guys if he rewires a wally 190 he will likely need an AFPR and even if he doesn't he may possibly still need an AFPR; some have still had fuel pressure problems with stock wiring and the 190.

An AFPR and 255 costs the same as an AFPR and 190. The AFPR doubles as an effective way to turn the 450s into 550s with the fuel pressure at about 60psi base. The 255 can handle that base pressure plus good boost all day and match fuel at that pressure plus good boost for way more power than the 14b can output. So there's no need to even bother with the injector upgrade, if the op is on a REAL tight budget. Been doing this for years on various setups.

But then, again you can get evo 560s for very little these days.
 
Don't bother with a suspension upgrade if you have an awd if you'r enot going to run over 350whp through it. The traction already there is plenty. A nice ride is comfortable. If you're into autox, then get some nice shocks, because that is all that's wrong. Still won't alter the handling that much.
 
I agree, some nice sway bars would help. I have a suspension techniques rear sway bar and the handling improved pretty good.
I love the lowered 1st gen look, but it's impractical for a winter car at that. I love being able to hoof through 12-18 inches of snow.
 
You can go either way with the afpr and the wally 255 or go with some evo 550, safc and a wally 190. As for the turbo, personally if I were you I would wait for a deal on a big or evo3 16g bro. It'll net you the 300hp easier than the 14b and you have some room to make some more power. Also don't forget about the little mods also like mbc, boost gauge, datalogger etc. But the main thing I wouldn't forget about is mantainance!Also once you start making some decent power your clutch isn't gonna like you very long so look into upgrading that also.
 
So Donnie do you consider your car fast then :) :) :) ? Not going to spill my beans until later. Mine is on the verge. But I have alot of bugs. . . making it fast, reliable AND semi-lower-cost means lots of bugs. But the bugs still havn't added to much money yet. Lots of headaches though.
 
So Donnie do you consider your car fast then :) :) :) ? Not going to spill my beans until later. Mine is on the verge. But I have alot of bugs. . . making it fast, reliable AND semi-lower-cost means lots of bugs. But the bugs still havn't added to much money yet. Lots of headaches though.

It's quick, and a lot of fun on the street. But, i miss the high speed power of my stealth tt, and galant vr4(hx40 e-85). I'd like to get to the track before i put the 20g on and see what i'm getting out of my maxed out 16g. I'm still under $3500 total investment, and i pull on boosted mustangs. But, i won't be happy until it's so powerfull that it breaks stuff all the time. Then i'll sell it and start over.
 
Invest 1st in better rubber. If you're still not satisfied, look at lowering springs and a quaife LSD.

You'll still lose it in 2nd if you try though. You'll need to modify the front suspension geometry and alter CG placemement further and need drag radials or slicks. Things that really chip away at driveability. I knew a kid who drove his honda around sometimes with a wheelie bar (how he never got caught, I don't know). But he couldn't pull into the wally parking lot without issues.
 
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