Help with new crank, main and rod bearings install.

[packinkimber45]

Hello everyone. I checked my oil clearance for my main/rod bearings yesterday and everything checks out. Now I just got done applying assembly lube to all bearings and am starting to install the main and rod caps. First off, haynes manual states that the torque for rod cap nuts are 36-38 and main cap bolts 47-51 ft/lbs. Should I use these torque values or is there a different one in the fsm? I have looked everywhere on my fsm on cd and they only have torque values for 1.8L but not for 2.0L turbo... Am I looking in the wrong spot? 90-91 ecb, under engine are the torque specs?

Also when I install my rod cap nuts and main cap bolts do I make sure they are dry before I install and torque or a little of the multi purpose super white grease I used to coat all my bearings or wd-40 or motor oil? Also in haynes it states to install all main caps and torque to specified value except for the thrust main cap to torque to 10-12 ft lbs? Sorry I'm confused and this is the first time I have done this stuff. Also the motor has been on the engine stand for 2 years with rods and piston still in it along with head while its upside down. I sprayed oil in the cylinder walls a couple of years ago but not recently. Do I make sure the cylinder walls are coated with oil before I install the main caps and rods? Any additional steps for installing my crank/main and rod bearings would be great too just to make sure I did it right.

I also lost track of what order my main cap bolts were in, they got mixed up so not sure exactly what spot each bolt came from except the one for the oil pick up tube.

It is a 91 turbo 6 bolt motor by the way. Thanks.

At first I used a good amount of assembly lube. After re-reading haynes it states to use a thin layer of assembly lube. However after reading some threads people say to use a lot of assembly lube. After reading haynes I pulled out the crank and relubed bearings with a thin coat of assembly lube. Do I need to start over again and apply a good amount of lube? I dont want to spin bearings. This is my first time doing this, I am getting worried.

Is this enough lube?

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I pretty much did the same on all the other bearings, please let me know if I need to pull the crank again and reapply more lube on all the bearings.

 

[jlr2196]

I can't remember torque specs off the top of my head but I thought the main bolts needed a certain torque + an additional 60 degrees or something to that effect.
As far as where the main bolts go, they are all the same except for the one with the stud for the oil pickup.
You will want to dip or coat the threads of your main bolts & rod bolts/nuts with regular motor oil.
The amount of assembly lube in the picture is adequate. Remember...there is only a few thousandths of clearance so your going to squeeze most of the lube out and you really don't want a bunch of assembly grease in the bottom of the oil pan. It's only there for initial startup while the oil works it way through the oil passages but I recommend priming the oil system while on the engine stand after you get everything buttoned up except for the timing belt & leave the valve cover off. You can then attach an electric drill to the oil-pump nut and spin it (oil pan filled with oil of course), continue spinning the pump until you start to see oil squirting out of the rocker arm oil squirter holes.
Since the head, pistons & rods are installed you will want to coat the bores with regular engine oil as good as you can, if the cams are not torqued down then I would coat the bores and rotate the engine a few times & repeat 2-3 times.

 

[crash27578]

Fixing to go through this myself. You only want assembly lube on the bearings and not the connecting rod or block side correct?

 

[jlr2196]

right

 

[packinkimber45]

I can't remember torque specs off the top of my head but I thought the main bolts needed a certain torque + an additional 60 degrees or something to that effect.
As far as where the main bolts go, they are all the same except for the one with the stud for the oil pickup.
You will want to dip or coat the threads of your main bolts & rod bolts/nuts with regular motor oil.
The amount of assembly lube in the picture is adequate. Remember...there is only a few thousandths of clearance so your going to squeeze most of the lube out and you really don't want a bunch of assembly grease in the bottom of the oil pan. It's only there for initial startup while the oil works it way through the oil passages but I recommend priming the oil system while on the engine stand after you get everything buttoned up except for the timing belt & leave the valve cover off. You can then attach an electric drill to the oil-pump nut and spin it (oil pan filled with oil of course), continue spinning the pump until you start to see oil squirting out of the rocker arm oil squirter holes.
Since the head, pistons & rods are installed you will want to coat the bores with regular engine oil as good as you can, if the cams are not torqued down then I would coat the bores and rotate the engine a few times & repeat 2-3 times.

Sounds good thanks. Couple more questions, when I was cleaning one of the bearings off the first time I used brake cleaner. I noticed the shiny appearance it had on the bearing face had disappeared compared to the other bearings. The rest had this shiny looking surface to them vs the one I cleaned off with brake cleaner. After seeing that I cleaned off the rest without spraying any brake cleaner to the bearing faces and it kept the same appearance as it first had before I cleaned them.

My question is, was my bearings coated with something? Did I just ruin that bearing, should I take them out and put new ones on? They are ACL Race bearings I bought a couple of years ago, I know I have read that some acl bearings had calico coatings. I'm not sure if mine came that way or any other coatings?

Also when I cleaned the block side saddles where the bearings go in, one of them had a little of assembly lube in the grove in the block. I cleaned off the surface but did not completely take out a small portion that was in the groove. Since that is where the oil would travel anyways during start up and motor running should I have completely taken that out? Could that cause that bearing to spin? Like I said I did clean off the surface that the bearing sits into except a small portion of that groove in the block by the oil galley. Should I completely take that off? Thanks.

 

[jlr2196]

Brake cleaner is fine to clean off the bearings, it could have dulled the finish but I don't see any reason not to put it back in, you'll be fine.
It's ok to get some grease in the saddle groove or even a small amount here and there.