help with build

[SVT2DSM]

My 92 talon tsi awd. Just recently for some reason ripped the teeth off the timing belt. The belt and all the timing components were only 7 months old. Pistons are chewed up pretty good. The motors only mods Were: 3 inch exhaust, Cyclone intake, Stage 4 xtd clutch, Ngk spark plugs/8mm wires, Balance shafts removed, Ac removed, evo 8 exhaust manifold, head studs, cometic head gasket, boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, And I had the boost up to about 14lbs. Any higher and I hit fuel cut. anyways here's a list of what I'm gonna do to my talon in the next few months. I don't have anyone around to help me with car knowledge and I don't wanna blow up my engine:

- 255 walboro fuel pump (and what does "rewiring" consist of)
- eprom ecu (stock ecu is starting to develop small lumps on caps I'm guessing its about to go bad and it smells like ocean water/seafood)
- new brakes and rotors
- 650cc or 750cc injectors (is that enough for a big 16g @25lbs?)
- stage 2 brian crowler cams
- a racing timing belt. Pretty sure that belt I had was defected (dayco)
- forged rods/pistons.
- rod/main bearings (is there a such thing as bad or crappy bearings? What's a good brand?)
- cometic head gasket
- fmic+bov
- 16g turbo
- stoich gauge

I'm new bear with me. Haha. Anyone see any problems? Have any ideas? Please let me know. I also want to dsm link? I'm guessing that fuel management/ignition type system. I would love to get some info on that. I'm ready to start whooping up on something more than mustang gt's and hondas! I'm ready for the next level

 

[WES_393]

- 255 walboro fuel pump (and what does "rewiring" consist of)
Walbro 255 would be a good choice. I would suggest an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as well. Rewiring is basically wiring the fuel pump to the battery so you get more voltage, but involves a bit more than just that. More info found here.

- eprom ecu (stock ecu is starting to develop small lumps on caps I'm guessing its about to go bad and it smells like ocean water/seafood)
Definitely sounds like capacitor leakage. It will require repair, but should still be useable. It could also be EPROM converted and socketed to accept different EPROM chips, such as DSMLink.

- new brakes and rotors
This is good, safety should come before mods. Might want to check your suspension as well.

- 650cc or 750cc injectors (is that enough for a big 16g @25lbs?)
650cc is pushing it for Big/Small 16g. 750cc would be a much better choice. However, if you went with DSMLink I would say go with something around 1000cc.

- stage 2 brian crawler cams
I assume you mean the 272 cams, which I believe fall into the category of "mild" 272's. This means you wouldn't exactly need better valve springs, but it's highly recommended. Adjustable cam gears would also be a good decision.

- a racing timing belt. Pretty sure that belt I had was defected (dayco)
Any quality timing belt would work, even the regular Gates belt from Oreilly. But if your set on a racing belt, the Gates Racing blue belt would be a good choice. Also, I typically see belts rip teeth after jumping time. Not saying the cheap belt wasn't to blame, but a new tensioner and pulleys is cheap insurance.

- forged rods/pistons.
This is good, but not necessarily needed. Since you have a 6-bolt a stock rebuild would very easily handle whatever a 16g could throw at it, and then some. But if you know you'll want more power in the future, now would be the time to build the engine. Just be sure to order the pistons after you get work done to your block. That way you know what size to get. Having a shop assemble the engine isn't a bad idea either if your not experienced or don't have the tools needed for the job.

- rod/main bearings (is there a such thing as bad or crappy bearings? What's a good brand?)
Before choosing bearings, you'll want to have the crank cleaned and inspected. If the crank does need to be cut or polished, you will need to order a different size bearing. Which bearing is determined by how the car will be used. Unless it's a dedicated race car, don't use a race bearing. Standard bearings are more forgiving against contaminated oil and damage. Clevite and King are good brands, but research before buying.

- cometic head gasket
Again, this is a good part but not exactly necessary. You will need to have the head and block resurfaced to a near mirrored finish in order for it to seal. Guys have ran Mitsu and Felpro composite gaskets to over 500hp with nothing but head studs and a good tune.

- fmic+bov
A quality FMIC is a must for any small turbo. They generate heat very quickly. I would suggest Punishment or VRSF for quality intercooler kits that are easy to install. As for a BOV, your stock 1g BOV is strong and can be made even stronger. Some FMIC kits also include a BOV. Either way, it's important that you find one that can be recirculated.

- 16g turbo
Just make sure it's a legit MHI turbo and not Chinese junk. Also be aware there are 3 different versions of the 16g turbo: Small, Big, and Evo 3. The Small spools very fast and only flow about 2 lbs/min less than a Big. The Evo 3 is in a class of it's own. Guys have pushed it to well over 400hp, but it's hard to find, pricey, and much laggier than the Small or Big. Just be aware of what your buying.

- stoich gauge
I assume you mean a narrowband gauge that taps into the O2 sensor, which you don't want. What you do want is a wideband gauge which uses it's own sensor and controller to give an accurate AFR reading. They can also be logged and used to simulate your factory O2 sensors. For brand, I would suggest Innovate hands down.

One other mod I would suggest is a 2g MAF sensor and intake pipe. The 1g MAF is pretty limiting all around. For tuning, I would suggest nothing other than DSMLink V3. You just need an EPROM ECU (or yours converted) and a laptop. It's powerful, user friendly, yet decently priced. Here's the site where you can get DSMLink, ECU services, and even tips on tuning.

ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[Fuel Injector Clinic]

Wow, that was a very impressive response, thanks Wes!

I just was going to chime in about the injectors since thats what I know best. I think you could go with our high impedance 775cc injectors or at that point it might make sense to just go with a set of our high impedance 900cc injectors which should run very nicely in your setup and offer you some additional headroom. At 43.5 psi of base fuel pressure on gasoline the 900s should support 450 whp, possibly a bit more.

Here's a link to our 900cc high impedance injectors which would be a great fit for you: 900cc FIC Mitsubishi DSM or EVO 8/9 Injector Set (High-Z)

With these you'll also want to remove your injector resistor box and add a resistor delete plug: Resistor Pack Delete Plug DSM and EVO 8/9

We do also have some low impedance options available in the 850cc and 950cc range if you'd prefer to go that route but with the way technology has developed in the high impedance line they really are the stars of the show these days and we recommend them on most setups since the cost isn't much more to take advantage of that newer technology.

If you have any other questions then let us know by posting here or giving us a call at (561) 427-0082 and we'll do what we can to help.

 

[BogusSVO]

- stage 2 brian crawler cams
I assume you mean the 272 cams, which I believe fall into the category of "mild" 272's. This means you wouldn't exactly need better valve springs, but it's highly recommended. Adjustable cam gears would also be a good decision.

- a racing timing belt. Pretty sure that belt I had was defected (dayco)
Any quality timing belt would work, even the regular Gates belt from Oreilly. But if your set on a racing belt, the Gates Racing blue belt would be a good choice. Also, I typically see belts rip teeth after jumping time. Not saying the cheap belt wasn't to blame, but a new tensioner and pulleys is cheap insurance.

- forged rods/pistons.
This is good, but not necessarily needed. Since you have a 6-bolt a stock rebuild would very easily handle whatever a 16g could throw at it, and then some. But if you know you'll want more power in the future, now would be the time to build the engine. Just be sure to order the pistons after you get work done to your block. That way you know what size to get. Having a shop assemble the engine isn't a bad idea either if your not experienced or don't have the tools needed for the job.

- rod/main bearings (is there a such thing as bad or crappy bearings? What's a good brand?)
Before choosing bearings, you'll want to have the crank cleaned and inspected. If the crank does need to be cut or polished, you will need to order a different size bearing. Which bearing is determined by how the car will be used. Unless it's a dedicated race car, don't use a race bearing. Standard bearings are more forgiving against contaminated oil and damage. Clevite and King are good brands, but research before buying.

- cometic head gasket
Again, this is a good part but not exactly necessary. You will need to have the head and block resurfaced to a near mirrored finish in order for it to seal. Guys have ran Mitsu and Felpro composite gaskets to over 500hp with nothing but head studs and a good tune.

I will agree with what WES has said.

I will add to have the rotating assembly fully balanced, pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, pressure plate, and H-bal.

Also if you decide to drop the cometic HG and go composite, still have the block milled.

I would highly recommend a new set of valve springs, the BC1100 springs with stock retainers you be a solid set up. About every stock Turbo 4g spring I have tested, I have found to be weak.

For the timing belt, look at the OE Evo IX, From what I have read on the fourm, it is a factory kevlar belt. IIRC Keltalon has a thread on this.

BTW... Intresting SN, You must come from a Ford background too!

 

[SVT2DSM]

You guys are awesome! Thanx wes, bogus, and fuel injector clinic!

Bogus: yessir I've owned nothing but fords. I've had a the SHO taurus, sc thunderbird. A 97gt stang A 95 cobra. 09 gt stang. 07 gt stang. And now im Pushing a 94 cobra

wes: thanx for the detailed answer!

 

[Miasma]

While rebuilding the block,

I would install a crank girdle plate, and remove the balancing shaft. My .02

Agreed with everything above.