help needed with fried ground wire

[1Gina2G]

Okay everyone, I've posted about this before with no end results as this is a worse case scenario for the fuel level gauge, but I'm guessing I've found the culprit to the problem..IF I found the right set of wires. Even if, I'm stumped on what to do next.

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^^This picture shows a view of the drivers side floor area, with the seat & carpet removed. Theres a pair of 2 plugs for the electric seat motor, and 2 ground wires that bond to the chasis...these grounds were mentioned in other threads to operate the fuel level gauge...hopefully this part is true, but I'm not %100.
First I tried restripping & rekrimping new ends to the wires, right away the wires felt brittle and are easy to snap, the newly stripped copper itself is not shiny at all but appear to be burned up. I proceded to follow the wires back to the main harness running along the door edge, cut after the splice to bypass it, restripped the wires there and still burned up. The wires are blackend all the way throughout the wire, has to be burnt up instead of corosion..

Peices of the burned up wire were tested with a working OHMs meter and it's possible to probe for continuity but sometimes would not ohm/zero out.

What I dont get is the wire harness itself splits off to the back of the car for the rear lights most likely, and a keyless entry module..I don't see the ground wire pairs running to the keyless though, where do they run exactly, how would I replace them? are these the correct wires?


To recap on what's already been checked
the fuel level gauge itself definatley works for 2 reasons, the yellow wire at the sending units will fill the gauge up when manualy grounded out. The gauge cluster was tested out with an ohms meter, fuel level gauge readings checked out %100.
-both fuel sending units have been replaced for different reasons and also check out with the ohms meter with the floater, as well as manualy MOVING the floater with the fuel unit pluged in with the keys on in the ignition with no response from the fuel level gauge.

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[stars]

Someone saved me allot of typing:

Unfortunately there are only two ways to do this. 1. open up the harness and trace & replace burned wire. 2. cut both ends of the burned wire and leave burned section in place, then run a new wire BUT you need to know if there are any branch circuits coming off it and destinations, and, if the burned wire has crossed over into any other wire you will not see it. Third option is to replace entire harness with a good one. (time intensive and expensive, but actually the best option) Note: you also need to find the reason it burned or anything you do will likely fry again!


There you go I found you 3 options.

 

[wrencher]

Up here in the rust belt I see many wires that turn black & stiff from corrosion.
Lots of ABS harnesses do that up here.

If your adding a ground & the gauge works, your problem has to be in the harness between the gauge and the splice (in harness) to that ground.
I say that because that ground serves many circuits.
They would affect the other circuits if it where @ the main ground point.

Need to do some voltage drop testing, that can help isolate poor wiring/connection quickly.

If you have that much poor wiring, it might be a very laborious task you have ahead

Look @ the rough ground distribution lists;