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Help making around 550-600 hp

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tsigreg

15+ Year Contributor
72
0
Jun 13, 2011
hammond, Indiana
I'm about to start building my motor and I want to try for around 600 hp
Bottom end I have manley 8.5 to 1 and going to run eagle rods and arp mains
Head mls head gasket don't know which one 1mm os valves bc springs and retainers cams thinking 280 bc help me decide
Jmk intake
Want to run e85 dont know what size injectors to use
Need help on a clutch car will only see street in summer lil use mainly drag racing any input to make my hp goals are appreciated I have a turbo its a no name think exhaust is .48 or .50 and compressor .63 thinking I'm gona run 25psi going to run dsm link also thanks for any help
 
I'm open to turbo ideas also thats the turbo I have on the motor rite now not one I really planned on running
 
Id sell that turbo on ebay and buy something that has been proven. I just got a mhi evo III 16g in the mail yesterday i bought for just over what a fake ebay turbo cost and know it will hold up but im only planning on 300whp on my build. No n ame turbos are a shot in the dark: some last some blown after you turn up the boost. Id say a 20g or bigger will do you fine.
 
I all ready have a t3 t4 cast manifold I'm using the turbo had held up but your ritei do want a real turbo
 
Can someone send me a link to the right hx40 I like that one but 3 questions I notice its a split style does my manifold have to match that to get the full power and spool and do I have to use the wastegate on it or can I takes that off and whats average spool on it mines at full at around 2500 now
 
Can someone send me a link to the right hx40 I like that one but 3 questions I notice its a split style does my manifold have to match that to get the full power and spool and do I have to use the wastegate on it or can I takes that off and whats average spool on it mines at full at around 2500 now

look over this, u can use a nondivided mani, but spool will suffer a little. I believe "knife-edging" helps reduce the issue. you could also get a different turbine housing.

Spool is gonna be slower than that by alot in comparison though.
 
Do you already have the pistons?

If not, I would get a minimum 9:1 CR for E-85. Wiseco has a 10.5:1 option for 7bolt 4G63 running E-85. I know a local running that CR on a 1g, but don't know what pistons. With 10.5:1 on my 7 blade HX-35, I would probably be in that HP range. I am flowing 53 lb/min on a T3 setup with around 500-525 whp right now. That's with a stock IM...

I hit 35 psi by 4k in 3rd, but it breaks driveline parts :D

There is a huge Holset thread on here somewhere. Id expect a few hundred slower spool on the HX-40. Maybe up to 500 rpms slower...
 
Ya I have pistons they were free with only 500-miles on them

Well you can't beat that!

Do you have a budget to work with here or is the sky the limit? I have bought a bunch of used items on the forums. Inj, manifolds, WG, clutch, PP, FW etc. You can get a lot more for your money vs. buying new...

I have the clutchnet sprung 6 puck and ACT 3200PP which are holding well. The fidanza FW is a little light, but I got a good deal. An ACT streetlite would have been a better choice for street driving.

Weld your ctr diff!

You'll need 30-35 psi for that HP IMO. I started pushing coolant at 33-35 on my setup with a Mitsu MLS & ARPs. I just switched to the Fel-Pro permatorque and L-19s, but the car isn't all the way back together yet. You could also look into o-ringing your motor.
 
Budget is any but time is years is why il save for part by part I have no garage rite now to work but I have spare motor and while rear subframe extra that I'm working on in mean time I know the motors and stuff just the turbo and injectors I'm not sure do you know a link to the turbo you have I'd go with that one I'm just all confused when I se ask the stuff of turbo specs and stuff so im just going on what you guts tell me for turbo
 
Those look like reasonable current prices for Holsets. I got my 7 blade HX 35 used for $250-300 then paid about $200 for a rebuild and shipping. I believe I paid about $200-250 for the T3 BEP housing. I have about $650-750 into my setup, but I bought it 2 years ago.

Don't forget to research the oil feed and return. You'll need about another $75-100 in fittings and hoses to do it right.

I hope to recommend the Fel-Pro Permatorque & L19s after I get my car back together. Cause if not, then I am pushing coolant again and I f'ed up. :notgood:I am hand lapping the head and block after getting them both machined. I used 220, 320, 400 & 800 grit. The head was easy, the block sucks ass!!!

They seem to be what the guys running 35+ psi recommend. Pricey parts. Its about $450 for both. I started pushing coolant at 33-35 with standard ARPs and a Mitsu MLS. I switched to L19s, but it still pushed. Apparently I warped my head .002" and I never would have gotten a good seal again until I tore it all apart.
 
Isn't there a way to have 7 bolt pistons on 6 bolt rods I thought I seen it somewere if not would there be a point in me selling my 8.5 pistons just to go to 9.0 cr
 
Isn't there a way to have 7 bolt pistons on 6 bolt rods I thought I seen it somewere if not would there be a point in me selling my 8.5 pistons just to go to 9.0 cr

It would be a waste to go to 9:1 if you have 8.5:1. IIRC 7 bolt pistons are 22mm wrist pins, so you need to have the small end of the 6 bolt rod machined to use the 10.5:1 7 bolt piston. I am sure someone sells 6 bolt 10:1+ pistons. Since you have free pistons, you can just save money there and run higher boost.

You'll probably want to look into the HX-40. I don't know much about the differences between the 3 available. 550-600 is a real stretch for the HX-35.
 
As stated it is possible if the small end is enlarged, but with a floating pin such as the eagle rods use you would have to have new bushings installed also. It would probably be easier and cheaper in the long run to just buy a new set of 6 bolt pistons.
 
With that link above for the turbo the hx40 should I do 6 or 8 blade and for the a/r should I do .48 or .63 what would the diff be and is there a big diff between a t3 and a t4 and divided or not diff

And what about a cometic hg and what thickness or will I have to find out thinness when I get head and block machined
 
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