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Help! Did i blow my engine!!!

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WarMadeSimple

Probationary Member
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Mar 7, 2011
Roanoke, Virginia
Alright guys, I am new here and heres my situation. I just got a 97 GST spyder, supposely just had engine rebuilt, car seemed to run great....... until i am on my way home with it, I was traveling on the interstate, not ripping into it, not boosting, 25-2700rpm and 60mph, just cruising................suddenly my car seemed to miss, well then it drove fine, then about 2 min later, i hear KLACK KLACK, very loud and then the car dies and it appears to smoke a small amount, well I get it on the tow truck (costs me 780 for the tow home, 180 miles), under the car was a slight amount of oil once towed.........I cant really see any real issues off hand, but the timing belt teeth are shaved down near the cams. any ideas?
 
If there is oil under the car it might have thrown a connecting rod.
 
Sounds like the timing belt failed. If that happened then the valves may be bent.
 
Highly doubt its the timing belt. Given the fact you saw oil, its most likely a thrown rod.
 
A failed timing belt doesn't usually leave a puddle under the car or make a lot of continuous noise. (The engine will shut off once it stops getting fuel and the CAS stops spinning). And hopefully you threw it into neutral and coasted to a stop as soon as you heard it.

I'm with Flash on this; start looking around for holes punched in the block...depending on what your definition of a "slight" amount of oil is. :)
 
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A failed timing belt doesn't usually leave a puddle under the car or make a lot of noise. (The engine will shut off once it stops getting fuel and the CAS stops firing).

I'm with Flash on this; start looking around for holes punched in the block.

Yep, sounds like it windowed the block if it's suddenly leaking oil.
 
Or you just noticed the leak and all the oil is already gone.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
well there was just a small patch of oil under the car, im talking like if you tipped over a 20z coke, and picked it up within seconds. the dipstick still shows oil.....so idk..............but heres what I found,

1500 bucks

6 bolt
ACL tri metal race bearings
frankenstein rods
wiseco ultra forged 2g pistons
oversized intake valves
crowe titanium retainers and valve springs
ported intake and exhaust sides
stock cams

1500 with receipts from machine shop and installed by the guy selling it to me.

then I can sell what I can off my 16g 7 bolt and make a portion back.

What do you guys think?
 
I dont really have any idea where the oil is coming from, i can see it is biulding up and causing a drip off the oil pan. but i checked the dipstick the other day, seems there oil in the motor

really im new to these cars, i got screwed over on this one, traded a bike for the car, 40 miles later, cars on the side of the road, i hadnt even gotten a chance to get into it yet :(
 
Did the seller build the motor? Run a comp test and see how he responds to pulling the head to verify the valves and pistons. You could also yank the pan and check out those rods. Maybe a little paranoid but I dont even trust my mother when it comes to my hard earned dollars.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
I think you're jumping the gun a little. Find the problem first. Where's the oil coming from?

I agree with that. Grab a can of carb cleaner and clean that oil pan spotless. Then crank it and pay attention. It may be the turbo return line.

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yes he said him and his father built it, ive told him all sorts of shit, he acts like he has no idea why it would have happened. thing here is, i really dont have a place to work on the car, or the tools to do so. I kind of just need to get it fixed, or sell the car. well I have only gotten a 2k offer to buy it, and i really would like to see it fixed.....

I just dont want to take it into a shop, have them waste my money figuring out whats wrong, just to tell me it needs a new engine, figure if i just drop a built 6 bolt in it, then im done. what can i check without tools?

and when i try to crank it, the starter just clicks. it wont do a thing

Heres whats done to the motor

4g63t 7bolt with updated bearings,
Acl race rod bearings,
stock pistons and rods ( will hold 450hp on stock internals)
dejon turbo intake
k&n filter
dejon intercooler piping
BIG fmic (new and installed) 3"in and outlets
steel braided oil feed line
powder coated valve cover (red)
Hks ssqv 2 bov recirculated
272 g stamp euro cams
freshly built head
ngk plat. plugs.
thick spark plug wires
EVO 3 BIG 16g ported and polished turbo
3" Greddy evo 2 exhaust system
3" megan racing turbo downpipe
headman tubular headers (new)
external o2 dump pipe (sounds like a rocket)
new alternator
unorthodox lightweight crank pulley
polished intake (inside only)
HKS oil cap
new dip stick
act stage 2 street clutch
b&m racing transmission 1st is shortened just a hair and 5th is longer
Greddy short shifter and knob twin adjustable ( not a cheepie) straight from dealer
Greddy shift linkages and solid shift mounts
ntn racing axles
energy suspension poly urethane engine mounts
 
It doesnt even have to be a hole in the block. You can throw a rod and just puntcure the oil pan. Start by climbing under there looking.
 
Dont feel bad I honestly think most people have had problems with their DSM's when they first buy it. With mine I ended finding out that for some reason I had 3 stock struts and 1 kyb just randomly. Also if you don't have the tools take it to a local mechanic that wont charge too much for an inspection
 
Dont feel bad I honestly think most people have had problems with their DSM's when they first buy it. With mine I ended finding out that for some reason I had 3 stock struts and 1 kyb just randomly. Also if you don't have the tools take it to a local mechanic that wont charge too much for an inspection

FYI, kyb is a oem replacement...gr-2s that is.
 
I agree with that. Grab a can of carb cleaner and clean that oil pan spotless. Then crank it and pay attention. It may be the turbo return line.

OP said he heard "KLACK KLACK, very loud" and the t-belt teeth are "shaved down near the cams".

And you think he should just clean off the oil pan and crank it? :hmm:

****

If the timing belt teeth are gone, you most likely have bent valves, which probably slapped the pistons and may have caused the noise you heard (sound descriptions are very subjective). The oil could be from a block or pan puncture, or it could be that you just noticed it coincidently.

Either way, it sounds like you need to do a thorough inspection of the motor and maybe a leak down test to see if you have holes in the pistons. You can also pull the VC and check the valve train for any damage, and drop the oil pan to inspect the lower end.
 
its just hard for me to work on it, no real place to do so man this suuuucks...................

I almost feel like my best bet is to just sell it, but damn it, i want to see this thing finished
 
I agree with that. Grab a can of carb cleaner and clean that oil pan spotless. Then crank it and pay attention. It may be the turbo return line.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

Crank the engine??? Are you serious?
 
I have also found a 97 gst engine, complete minus turbo for 700 bucks, 60k said miles.

and yes, i did not think the cranking idea sounded too smart, I used to build VR-4's, i am just not in the best place to work on the car. no garage, no tools currently
 
as stated, i have a guy with a built 6 bolt, 1500 installed. or I can just sell the car for 2k and be done
 
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