HELP? cranks but no start

[tkhaab_94]

yessterday i got a new bov. greddy type s. put it on there. my car started up fine. drove fine. put it in the garage and called it a night. today this morning i decided to start it up. i heard a noise while starting it so i stopped. thinking "wtf was that?" opened the hood. checked belts. everything looks good. tried to start it up again but no start. just cranks..i havent checked for spark or fuel because i dont know how to do that. so any suggestions?

 

[poundcake]

it should be the sensor with only 1 prong. haynes manual says the resistance should be:
32 *F = 5100 to 6500 ohms
86 *F = 2100 to 2700 ohms
104 *F = 900 to 1300 ohms
140 *F = 480 to 680 ohms
176 *F = 260 to 36 ohms

 

[tkhaab_94]

is that in degrees Fahrenheit? is shoud be for the outside temperature right?

sh!t man i dont know what else to do. i might just turn it to the people at the shop..im going to be so pissed if it was just a small little problem...i always hate that when it happens to me...im worried that if my timing might of jumped and if it bent my valves...im hoping to the god of cars that it didnt do that and that i wish i can find out what the fvck is wrong with it. :'( :'(

ok so the wires on my coolant temp sensor went out before and it was doing the same thing yours is, it just wouldnt start at all. i tore the boot apart on the sensor and stripped the wires and reconnected em and it started no problem. never even had to replace the sensor. also how did the starting fluid work out? when mine was doing it i could spray throttlebody cleaner in the tb elbow and it would start almost everytime and once it started it would stay running

Well, I only tried lighter fluid and some wd40 no start. They are flammable, but I don't think starting fluid isn't that much different from lighter fluid..

 

[dsmnthamakin]

same exact problem on my brothers 95 tsi. pulled the head off and inspected everything, as far as the valves go and all the internals.. installed cam position sensor car fired right up he drove it home, about 50 miles . Went to start it the next day and it would not start. so tore it back apart to put in crank sensor because thats the only thing left after the diag. Will let you know this Sat. if it takes car of it.

 

[tkhaab_94]

where is the cam position sensor? do you mean the throttle position sensor? and it didnt start before you put a new cam position sensor in it right?

 

[poundcake]

it should be the sensor with only 1 prong. haynes manual says the resistance should be:
32 *F = 5100 to 6500 ohms
86 *F = 2100 to 2700 ohms
104 *F = 900 to 1300 ohms
140 *F = 480 to 680 ohms
176 *F = 260 to 36 ohms

this is in degrees fahrenheit. sorry about the astricks i didnt know what else to use .

 

[Pirrofab]

starting fluid is MUCH more volatile then lighter fluid, True starting fluid is ether. It will combust very easily and violently

is that in degrees Fahrenheit? is shoud be for the outside temperature right?

sh!t man i dont know what else to do. i might just turn it to the people at the shop..im going to be so pissed if it was just a small little problem...i always hate that when it happens to me...im worried that if my timing might of jumped and if it bent my valves...im hoping to the god of cars that it didnt do that and that i wish i can find out what the fvck is wrong with it. :'( :'(




Well, I only tried lighter fluid and some wd40 no start. They are flammable, but I don't think starting fluid isn't that much different from lighter fluid..

 

[tkhaab_94]

alright so today i just poured some gas into the cylinders still no start. i am 100% sure i got spark. still 50/50 i got gas but it should of started when i put that gas into the cylinders. wtf is wrong? could my timing might of jumped a tooth?

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Can this mean that my timing jumped? They don't align.
There's 2 white marks on each cam. Does it matter which one I line up?

 

[400hp93talon]

I think they marked the cams not knowing they have set marks. take the belt off those are not the right marks!!! The marks are cut into the teeth they are easy to see!!! remove and time the cams,crank and align the oil pump!! Its easy

 

[tkhaab_94]

They are both cut into the cam. What the hell? I'll try to redo the timing if it isn't TOO hard..

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

First off, take your motor to TDC...That means pull out your number 1 plug, stick a long screwdriver in the hole and rotate the motor CLOCKWISE til the screwdriver is all the way up AND the 2 dowels on the cams line up at 12 o clock...(In your pic they are at 6 o' clock....)

Also I'm willing to bet they motor is in time, he just has a bad angle and could rotate the motor just a slight hair clockwise a lil bit to get it to line up perfectly...

Since your car is a 99 Just like mine here is a pic of the CAS (cam angle sensor..)
Right under the blue MBC is a triangle lookin shape...bolted to the rear of it by a 10 mm bolt is the CAS...Disconnect battery negative...Take out 10mm bolt, pull CAS out, Put new CAS in, Put bolt back in...Try to start

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I went through a period where I couldnt get no spark on my GSX....I swapped Coil Packs...Transistor packs...ECU's....CAS's....still a no start....Put a new CPS...(Crank Position Sensor)in voila fired right up....

In order to change out the CPS...its a tad more involving but nothing completely complicated..

1st, Disconnect Battery Negative, you should have some ratchet wrenchs handy...they are a life saver in areas like this...I'll us the acronym RW for them in the later lines...Pull off driver side tire and prop car up on jackstands...

2nd, put a 3/4 inch socket on a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and put it on the crank bolt...and get a 10mm socket and unbolt the a/c line(you know the big one right there in the way ...just move it to the otherside of the timing cover it'll stretch and bend a bit...

3rd, use 10 mm RW on 1 or 2 bolts on the water pump pulley(can probably get to 2 at a time)and loosen them.

4th, turn motor slightly with the 1/2 drive with 3/4 inch socket some on the crank bolt

5th, loosen other 2 bolts on water pump with RW

6th, now loosen and take off the 4 12mm bolts holding on the harmonic balancer...use the 1/2 inch drive as leverage and DO NOT let it rotate counter-clockwise...Remove balancer

7th, loosen the power steering pump and alternator and A/C (if applicable) to allow slack on the belts...

8th, Remove driver side motor mount (optional but very very highly recommended)
Put jack with a piece of wood under the motor and jack it up to relieve some weight off the mount...
2 17mm nuts and 1 14mm bolt hold it to the motor and 1 17 mm bolt goes through the mount...
Remove mount...and jack motor up some for easier access to pulleys/bolts

9th, use RW and spin the water pump bolts to loosen them and take them off pull pulleys off look at how they are put in because you can install them backwards....

10th, pull all belts off the water pump pulley and let them hang or whatever....

11th, remove all 10mm bolts holding on the lower timing cover make some sort of system so you dont mix all the bolts up...they have different lengthes and what not...Use a piece of cardboard and make a sketch and cut little holes and put bolts in them holes ...(DO NOT MESS WITH THE MIDDLE TIMING COVER, IT DOES NOT NEED TO COME OFF...) Sorry bout that but when I took my middle timing cover off I snapped it in 3 place....bought a brand new one from JNZ for like $37...went to install it....Shit snapped that one as well...but even worse...I said screw it and I aint messing with it again I'll run without one...

12th, pull lower timing cover off...Find crank sensor...easy to spot only sensor down by crank bolt...Disconnect crank sensor from front case and its electrical connector by the upper timing cover(Triangle plug)....

13th, rotate motor until you can slide the crank sensor out, cut old crank sensor off, use cutters whatever....

14th, Now the tricky part...Slide new sensor in behind the belt...but you will have to twist the belt in order to do so...I used a pair of flat pliers that didnt have any grooves on them to twist the belt...Make sure you push all the little clips in before you bolt the sensor back on and everything...

15th, Put everything back together and go for a drive....

If you take your time and your garage is organized this should take you no longer that 2 hours tops...I did up to step 5 went in got a drink, came out step 8, back in for another drink, back out, then down to step 4, took a piss, back out, and done... took me 2 hours to do all the above

 

[400hp93talon]

The cas is right next to the thermostat housing

First off, take your motor to TDC...That means pull out your number 1 plug, stick a long screwdriver in the hole and rotate the motor CLOCKWISE til the screwdriver is all the way up AND the 2 dowels on the cams line up at 12 o clock...(In your pic they are at 6 o' clock....)

Also I'm willing to bet they motor is in time, he just has a bad angle and could rotate the motor just a slight hair clockwise a lil bit to get it to line up perfectly...

Since your car is a 99 Just like mine here is a pic of the CAS (cam angle sensor..)
Right under the blue MBC is a triangle lookin shape...bolted to the rear of it by a 10 mm bolt is the CAS...Disconnect battery negative...Take out 10mm bolt, pull CAS out, Put new CAS in, Put bolt back in...Try to start

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I went through a period where I couldnt get no spark on my GSX....I swapped Coil Packs...Transistor packs...ECU's....CAS's....still a no start....Put a new CPS...(Crank Position Sensor)in voila fired right up....

In order to change out the CPS...its a tad more involving but nothing completely complicated..

1st, Disconnect Battery Negative, you should have some ratchet wrenchs handy...they are a life saver in areas like this...I'll us the acronym RW for them in the later lines...Pull off driver side tire and prop car up on jackstands...

2nd, put a 3/4 inch socket on a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and put it on the crank bolt...and get a 10mm socket and unbolt the a/c line(you know the big one right there in the way ...just move it to the otherside of the timing cover it'll stretch and bend a bit...

3rd, use 10 mm RW on 1 or 2 bolts on the water pump pulley(can probably get to 2 at a time)and loosen them.

4th, turn motor slightly with the 1/2 drive with 3/4 inch socket some on the crank bolt

5th, loosen other 2 bolts on water pump with RW

6th, now loosen and take off the 4 12mm bolts holding on the harmonic balancer...use the 1/2 inch drive as leverage and DO NOT let it rotate counter-clockwise...Remove balancer

7th, loosen the power steering pump and alternator and A/C (if applicable) to allow slack on the belts...

8th, Remove driver side motor mount (optional but very very highly recommended)
Put jack with a piece of wood under the motor and jack it up to relieve some weight off the mount...
2 17mm nuts and 1 14mm bolt hold it to the motor and 1 17 mm bolt goes through the mount...
Remove mount...and jack motor up some for easier access to pulleys/bolts

9th, use RW and spin the water pump bolts to loosen them and take them off pull pulleys off look at how they are put in because you can install them backwards....

10th, pull all belts off the water pump pulley and let them hang or whatever....

11th, remove all 10mm bolts holding on the lower timing cover make some sort of system so you dont mix all the bolts up...they have different lengthes and what not...Use a piece of cardboard and make a sketch and cut little holes and put bolts in them holes ...(DO NOT MESS WITH THE MIDDLE TIMING COVER, IT DOES NOT NEED TO COME OFF...) Sorry bout that but when I took my middle timing cover off I snapped it in 3 place....bought a brand new one from JNZ for like $37...went to install it....Shit snapped that one as well...but even worse...I said screw it and I aint messing with it again I'll run without one...

12th, pull lower timing cover off...Find crank sensor...easy to spot only sensor down by crank bolt...Disconnect crank sensor from front case and its electrical connector by the upper timing cover(Triangle plug)....

13th, rotate motor until you can slide the crank sensor out, cut old crank sensor off, use cutters whatever....

14th, Now the tricky part...Slide new sensor in behind the belt...but you will have to twist the belt in order to do so...I used a pair of flat pliers that didnt have any grooves on them to twist the belt...Make sure you push all the little clips in before you bolt the sensor back on and everything...

15th, Put everything back together and go for a drive....

If you take your time and your garage is organized this should take you no longer that 2 hours tops...I did up to step 5 went in got a drink, came out step 8, back in for another drink, back out, then down to step 4, took a piss, back out, and done... took me 2 hours to do all the above

Listen to this guy step by step doesnt get easier than that.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Thanks 400hp93talon, I try to be as descriptive as possible to help any newbs who will want to try it themselves....Way I figure we were all noobs at some point in time, so why not give a helping hand ...

But if you follow my directions step by step youll breeze right through any installation...

Jim

 

[chadnum1]

Hey bro Im in yuba city and Im basically the local traveling dsmer . If you want I could come take a look this weekend.

 

[tkhaab_94]

Hey bro Im in yuba city and Im basically the local traveling dsmer . If you want I could come take a look this weekend.

if you're willing to come for free haha. i dont mind. but its missing a injector seat. i lost it while checking the fuel rail. i just ordered some, its supposed to come next week but i can ask my cousin if i can borrow his injector seat. as for the information above i cant crank my car because it will shoot out gas. so i will have to try that once i get the injector seats. im having some one come over to take a look at it on monday. but hopefully the seats comes in by then. ill keep you guys posted.

 

[chadnum1]

try these they work perfect. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...9-1g-2g-cheaper-fuel-injector-insulators.html

 

[tkhaab_94]

ohh sweet!! thanks. i will give that a try. yeah i bought some for like 7 bucks on ebay. i think i will put these on for a while until i get the new ones.

 

[chadnum1]

I actually removed new oem ones to use these they seem to last longer and leak less often. Also Im probably gonna be in Sac tomorrow if you want me to take a look. Shouldnt take long to get it runnin.

 

[tkhaab_94]

alright cool yeah ill pm you my info.

 

[PandaMan]

Make sure your coolant temp sensor didn't come unplugged.

 

[tkhaab_94]

^ yes its not unplugged. i check that sensor too. still no crank.

 

[dragon2144]

Ok my car was doing this i just cranked it and cranked it up would not start replaced the spark plugs started right up. Might try that if you have not. what was wrong with mine is that one of my coils was going bad pull your wires and check for white powder looking stuff in the coils where the wires go in. That what was doing it for me replaced the coil and plugs started right up.

 

[tkhaab_94]

Today i placed everything back together, i cranked it up heard like a grinding noise. I stopped and looked at everything. Tried it again and it wont crank anymore. It acts like the battery is dead which is not because i charged it before i started working on it. One thing i noticed is that the temperarure gauge goes up a little and if i hold the key to the start it goes up more then it stops. When i let go of the key it goes back down.

so chadnum1 came over to take a look at my car. turns out i locked the engine. some valves fell out and i think some are bent. im going to have to rebuild the head. im going to buy a cometic head hasket, ARP studs, and stainless steel valves. i'll keep you guys posted. tomorrow i might start to take off the head.

 

[400hp93talon]

That was really cool of that guy to swing by.....Sorry bout your luck dude weve all been there before are you takin the head to a shop or are you going to put the valves in yourself??

 

[tkhaab_94]

I'm going to take it to the shop. I don't have the right tools to change them out. Do you think I messed up my engine other than the valves? Because it wouldn't turn over.

 

[tkhaab_94]

Just an update.

I'm going to get a rebuilt head fom ebay. Waiting for it to come in. I still need some parts for my new turbo like oil feed line, turbo to o2 gasket, gaskets for oil drain pipe, MBC, SMIC J pipe,and maybe some other parts but I can't think of it right now. Well hopefully I get these in ASAP. Can't wait for it to run again.