Headgasket replacment and ADVICE!!

[Ppayer38]

OK so long story short went out today for a test drive after doing a little maintenance (oil, filter, plugs, wires, and coilpack) to see if I got rid of my miss and just cause it was time and I did get rid of the miss but in the process I also blew the headgasket in 2 spots

**Didnt plan on doing this so im not very familiar with it so need some help**

Anyway I believe Ill have about $1000 to do the job so was wondering if you guys could help me build a quick list as to what I should get for the job.....
-Headgasket??? (What type and thickness)... $100
-Water pump... $165
-Timing belt, Idler pully, Tensioner Adjuster, Tensioner Pulley, BSE kit... $250
-Head Studs...$75
-Fluids(Coolant, Oil, Filter, Water Wetter).... $100
Total for needed parts.... $690

$300 to spare for whatever else.
-Maybe built head(If I can source a used or rebuild head for fairly decent price?)

Whatever else you guys can think of please let me know.... Car has to be back up and running quickly since it is my DD!

2 month or newer parts...Exhaust Mani Gasket, Turbo to Mani gasket, Valve cover gaskets, Injector seals. Any reusable??

Thanks,
Josh

 

[jmartinez1228]

I did a cometic with arp head studs on my last headgasket job. Water pump and t-belt was all
using oem parts. For headstuds that can get pricey because arp has a nice set of studs for $80-90.
I just used stock studs.
As for having work done on the head it all depends on what your are trying to do. A port job will definitely benefit you. Springs and retainers are all a matter of what cams you plan on running in the future.

 

[Ppayer38]

Fresh 1g head new everything inside bc 272,hks valve spring kit,3g lifters,ssi valves,supertech guides and seals,light bowl blend and exhaust port work all done by jackson auto machine have receipts 0 miles.... this will be the head put on the car!!

I know I have to redo somethings but not an issue... I am gunna go with the FelPro PermaTorque MLS HG as it seems to have a better review than the OEM MLS. Cometic ive seen go both ways but dont wanna do this again so gunna spend the entra cash now.
Parts List
-Build Head... $550
-FelPro MLS Headgasket... $130
-Water pump... $50
-Timing belt, Idler pully, Tensioner Adjuster, Tensioner Pulley, BSE kit... $250
-Head Studs...$90
-BSE Kit...$50
-1g Intake Mani...FREE
-1g Water pipe and Coolant neck...$ Looking for it $
-1g Throttle Body...$ Looking for it $
-RTV(For all other watper pipes and coolant passages)...$20
-Fluids(Coolant, Oil, Filter, Water Wetter).... $100
**Total... $1300

 

[motozachl]

So your planning on pulling the engine? Because you need to in order to perform the BSE

Otherwise this estimate looks pretty good

 

[95talongirl]

Sounds about right on the estimate there.

As for thickness, this depends on a a few aspects...
1. Was the head machined; and how much was taken off
2. Was the block machined, and if so how much was taken off
3. What pistons are you running (certain ones run a lower C.R.)

The uncompressed HG thickness is .055 or 1.3mm. Compressed it's around .047. So you take the machined numbers and add those to the HG thickness to get a total of what you'll need to make up for the lost metal. Of course, this number can change depending on what you want to do with the car. If you want higher compression (which *generally* is not wanted on a forced induction engine) then that number will be lower.

The other issue is piston to valve clearance. if you're shooting for stock thickness, then the above math problem should put you in the clear. However, if you want to run something with higher compression, or not as thick of a HG, then you could lay the head on the block and snug it on with a layer of clay in the middle. Don't torque it down, tho. This will give you a "mold" per say... and tell you if you have a interference problem from machine work.

 

[Ppayer38]

The head has been machined flat is all so not much material has been removed but I will find out for sure... Block is being left alone as it is still in good shape and flat... Stock 2g piston rod combo so stock Compression or maybe a little lower would not hurt my feelings at all.

Motozachl... Thanks for the heads up ill just grab another BS Belt and throw it on there to insure it doesnt break cause I dont plan on pulling the motor haha

 

[LiquidX]

Head and block need to have the proPer surface for a MLS gasket to be used. Basically a mirror shine. If you can catch a finger nail on it, it's not the proper surface.

Why do you want a MLS gasket any way? The composite has held up to 40psi with an o ringed block and 30psi with ARPs. Not to mention it's 1/3rd the price of the perma-torque which only a handful of members on the site would need.

You can save money by going with a part store water pump. Get an OEM timing belt kit. Modern Automotive Performance - Redefining fast. has a customizable kit with different options for a good price.

 

[Ppayer38]

Well the head is brand new and I believe hasbeen resurfaced.

Ill be checking the block to the best of my ability in my shop and preping it for the install.

Thanks for saving me some cash though with the composite HG over MLS... Ive been trying to research this but there is so much about it but also so much wrong info on it it is hard to do

All this is really helping so please keep the info coming but so far ive got everything I need other than a 1g TB, Waterpipe, and Thermostat housing/water housing thingy

The head spec are posted up top and all the rest will be OEM replacment parts with a Evo 8.5 turbo and Tubular exhaust mani going on so dont ever plan to run over 25psi which wont make 400AWHP so I should be covered then...

 

[LiquidX]

Well the head is brand new and I believe hasbeen resurfaced.

You can resurface a head with a belt sander, doesn't mean it's suitable or done properly.

Ill be checking the block to the best of my ability in my shop and preping it for the install.

Thanks for saving me some cash though with the composite HG over MLS... Ive been trying to research this but there is so much about it but also so much wrong info on it it is hard to do

All this is really helping so please keep the info coming but so far ive got everything I need other than a 1g TB, Waterpipe, and Thermostat housing/water housing thingy

The head spec are posted up top and all the rest will be OEM replacment parts with a Evo 8.5 turbo and Tubular exhaust mani going on so dont ever plan to run over 25psi which wont make 400AWHP so I should be covered then...

Just be sure to get ARP studs and what are you going to be using to tune? What is your reasoning for the Evo 8.5 turbo?

 

[Ppayer38]

All machine work was done at a machine shop and done properly...

Already got the ARP studs ordered and am using Ceddy/ECU Flash and logging with Evoscan...

Reasoning for Evo 8.5 turbo is because I got a good deal on a tubular manifold that had a evo twin scroll flang on it that rotated the turbo in the correct direction for use on ours car and everything fits up perfect so I took it to use as an upgrade from my 14b...