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Mattitude v1

15+ Year Contributor
250
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Oct 20, 2003
City, Alaska
This question is only for NT peeps who have replaced their header. From your personal experience in a DSM only, how much noticeable gains have you received after replacing your header?

To those who own Greddy 4-1 header systems - in your opinion only, is it worth spending $400 on a Greddy header or spending the money elsewhere, or save a hundred and go with DC? I have a Short Ram intake and am concerned about the Greddy header getting insanely hot and my intake sucking in hot air. Is this an issue?
 
Mattitude v1 said:
This question is only for NT peeps who have replaced their header. From your personal experience in a DSM only, how much noticeable gains have you received after replacing your header?

To those who own Greddy 4-1 header systems - in your opinion only, is it worth spending $400 on a Greddy header or spending the money elsewhere, or save a hundred and go with DC? I have a Short Ram intake and am concerned about the Greddy header getting insanely hot and my intake sucking in hot air. Is this an issue?

if your worried about heat, use thermal wrap on your headers to prevent that heat from escaping the headers, and keeping the temps in the engine bay a bit cooler
 
I have a Greddy header (325 bucks) and I noticed a difference. My car no longer stumbles when shifting and idling. Everything seemed to be considerably smoother and it pulled pretty even thru the whole RPM range.
 
dont need 8 said:
I have a Greddy header (325 bucks) and I noticed a difference. My car no longer stumbles when shifting and idling. Everything seemed to be considerably smoother and it pulled pretty even thru the whole RPM range.
Where'd you get it for $325? I've only seen it on eBay from a seller w/ bad feedback for that cheap.
 
k i have the gredy headers and yeha like some people stated before it alot smoother better pick up nad go. mine were 525 shipped. but temparature got hot . u can use thermal wrap but i got the chrome mirror finish headers. so yeah heres a pic of them. Easy toinstall urself
 

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i have the ssautochrome header off of ebay. The one thing i regret when installing them was not using some type of clean glove to handle the header or using ascetone when i finished the install becuase the oils from my fingers stayed on the header & there are absolutely NO rust stains, just the oil marks looked burned in (not to many tho).

As for gains, i noticed it around the top-end, i have a 4-1 design & it picked up better at around 3000 rpms or so.
 
Where do you get the wrap and how hard is it to remove the old header? Possible for a newbie to do? The manifold and piping looks pretty rusty...
 
Mattitude v1 said:
Where do you get the wrap and how hard is it to remove the old header? Possible for a newbie to do? The manifold and piping looks pretty rusty...

you can get the wrap at any performance shop
 
It's pretty easy. Jack the car up and take the bolts out at the cat 1st. Go ahead and unplug the O2 sensor. Take the bolts loose that connect the header to the downpipe and remove the downpipe. Take the bolts loose that hold in the heat shield, wiggle that off. Then just take off all the bolts you see, holding the manifold to the head. Lift it out. Just be careful not to break any bolts off. I don't think breaking bolts is as common with aluminum heads. You may have to re-use your gaskets also if you don't have new ones. Make sure they are in good condition.

Install the new header in the same fashion. If it it a 1 piece, install the O2 sensor first, then feed the pipes into the engine bay and under the car. Start your bolts on the top side to hold the header in place. Get back under the car and put the bolts in the piping at the cat, but do not tighten them. Get back up top and snug everything to the head, but do not overtighten. Then tighten down the bolts at the cat. Plug your O2 sensor back in.

With the car secure, start it and check for exhaust leaks. If there are no leaks, cut it off. If there are, cut it off and check that the bolts are tight, and that you installed the gaskets correctly. Do not allow the car to get hot.

Use some mild detergent and water and clean the header. I guess acetone works also. Oil from your hands will stain a header when it gets hot.

After 500 miles, check all bolts and retighten if necessary. Clean the header anytime you or anyone else touches it with bare hands. :thumb:

I should have just scanned and hosted my instructions. LOL. Yeah, I'm bored.
 
i believe for me it was harder than that. hes right follow his instructions. but u might need a hammer to pound the stock headers to come lose some. but yes very easy to intall. Word of advice if not using and air gun or im pact gun then get wd-40 or something along those lines and spary it on every bolt that u have too take out. for me i tried and it was so hard to do it. then i used the wd 4- left over nbight came back next morning and wow it was easy. i cant stress to make sure you o2 sensor is not wet or yanked or pulled. i pulled mine by accident and my car didnt star until i disconected my O2 sensor. LOL have fun
 
miamieclipse said:
i have the ssautochrome header off of ebay. The one thing i regret when installing them was not using some type of clean glove to handle the header or using ascetone when i finished the install becuase the oils from my fingers stayed on the header & there are absolutely NO rust stains, just the oil marks looked burned in (not to many tho).

As for gains, i noticed it around the top-end, i have a 4-1 design & it picked up better at around 3000 rpms or so.

I also have the SSautochrome, very nice, some people complain most like it, Can't beat 100 bux. It does have the thickest flanges I've seen(big plus) no leaks.
Come on though, You didn't wipe it up before you fired it up?
 
9D9 MITSU RS said:
It's pretty easy. Jack the car up and take the bolts out at the cat 1st. Go ahead and unplug the O2 sensor. Take the bolts loose that connect the header to the downpipe and remove the downpipe. Take the bolts loose that hold in the heat shield, wiggle that off. Then just take off all the bolts you see, holding the manifold to the head. Lift it out. Just be careful not to break any bolts off. I don't think breaking bolts is as common with aluminum heads. You may have to re-use your gaskets also if you don't have new ones. Make sure they are in good condition.

Install the new header in the same fashion. If it it a 1 piece, install the O2 sensor first, then feed the pipes into the engine bay and under the car. Start your bolts on the top side to hold the header in place. Get back under the car and put the bolts in the piping at the cat, but do not tighten them. Get back up top and snug everything to the head, but do not overtighten. Then tighten down the bolts at the cat. Plug your O2 sensor back in.

With the car secure, start it and check for exhaust leaks. If there are no leaks, cut it off. If there are, cut it off and check that the bolts are tight, and that you installed the gaskets correctly. Do not allow the car to get hot.
Thanks for the instructions. Does a new header come with new gaskets and how many gaskets are there? Should I just order from Fel-Pro...? When I replace my header, I want to replace the cat too w/ a high-flow. I noticed a short soft wire thing (bad terminology) attached to my current cat. Is this just a ground?
 
You will need to buy all gaskets. You will need 2 the header gasket and the downpipe to cat gasket. The wire commin off your stock manifold is your oxygen sensor. Sometimes those can be a pain to get off. I had a lot of trouble with one bold on my manifold. I suggest starting the car and letting it run for a while to get hot. Then spray PB Blaster on all the bolts before trying to take them off. You really don't want to strip these. It sucks when you do. Just be sure to wear gloves, it will be really hot when your working on it. I noticed a good gain from mine, but I also put a MSD coil pack and MSD wires on at the same time. I like the sound it gave my exhaust. Its deeper now.
 
SnoopySLR said:
You will need to buy all gaskets. You will need 2 the header gasket and the downpipe to cat gasket.
I'm sorry but if you buy new headers they should come with a nice 4 layer gasket for the head and for the cat. You are getting ripped off if you don't, should also come with mounting hardware, lock washers and bolts. I'd also use some lock-tite, but that was my preference. Just becasue you buy a name doesn't mean they get to rip you out of mounting hradware and gaskets :thumbdown
Also most don't come with mounting instructions becasue thats what your chiltons is for, tells you how to remove the old manifold and then you reverse the directions for the install.
 
Hey guys, I had a quick question while we're on this topic. I'm fairly used to working with V8's and this is my first 4 cyl. that I've really done any work on. I had a question about header leaks. I know that with most V8's you really have to check the bolts and gaskets fairly often so you wouldn't have any strange ticking coming from the exhaust. Has anyone had this kind of problem after installing a header on their car? I've got header, cams and gears on the way so I'm kinda curious what to expect here.
Thanks.
 
I had some leaks, but it was because I didn't tighted to torque specs. I don't remember what they were, but any Chilton's guide would say. As for the bolts loosening up, I haven't had one problem. I paid $150 for my header, so I wasn't expecting gaskets. I won't pay $500 for some shinny header that will give me the same benifits. Mine are ceramic coated, so I was happy.
 
Also that is what lock washers are good for, cheap too. My dad is an old hot rodder and that is something we always did lock tite and lock washers. with a good gasket and those little dtails never had a leak from the head side of the header.
 
i just put on a chikara 4-2-1 last month, gained power through the hole power band deffinitly more top end now. :D and i only paid $180 new. but i notested that i'm getting a lot of funny vibrations, nothing seems to be touching or rubbing anywhere. and all is tight, i've had it up on the hoist 5 or 6 times, but always quits after taking it off the ground. any deas? starting to get pissed :mad:
 
Where the hell did you find a 4-2-1 header for our car!? I looked everywhere, I didn't think they existed. I heard that 4-2-1 gives more torque than 4-1, thats why I wanted it more.
 
I thought most of them were 4-2-1. I know DC Sports makes a 4-2-1. I looked at the Dyno results for a Civic and it got 9.4 more h/p and 7.2 more ft/lbs of torque at 6700/6800 rpm than stock. From the chart, a difference is only noticed at REAL high rpm and my eclipse redlines at 7. I rarely ever shift at 7. I was hoping for more low end power. I read that a 4-2-1 was more low end power than a 4-1. Now I'm confused, based on this Dyno chart, there is no difference between stock and DC Sports at low end...
 
hey guys i cant believe you didnt mention the new header from punishment racing.. i would look at that one before buying one somewhere else. im gona buy one after i save a few pennies...
 
she isn't that pretty but it dose the job. i got it at auto value, sounds funny but i live in the sticks. :thumbdown the header i got is made by hedmen headers. easy to install, but it dose away with your flex pipe, i think thats why i'm getting all these strange vibs through out my car :thumbdown. i'll have to get some pics together and post them.
 
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