Head gasket/Timing belt/60k Maintenance... How does everything look?

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

Alright so long story short, my head gasket went on me, and being unsure of the age of the timing belt I decided it was time for a timing belt/60k maintenance job as well for piece of mind.

Vehicle Info;
1996 Eclipse GSX
(7 Bolt motor)
140k w/ auto

*Supposed to be rebuilt by the previous owner of the guy I bought it off of, said to have around 40k on it, but no receipt = very skeptical*

So being my first tear down of a vehicle, I took my sweet old time tearing everything down, and labeling every bolt, connector, etc.

I put piston #1 to TDC according to the timing marks that were on the vehicle, saw the piston through the spark plug hole, verified by putting the oil dipstick down, and felt it. Removed both belts, finally removed the pulleys, and timing auto tensioner (replacing 60k/timing maintenance)

SIDE NOTE,
*Both (OEM) belts looked really good, the pulley's looked great too when wiped off, and comparing them to my OEM pulleys. So maybe the engine was really rebuilt, but timing belt components aren't good enough to make that assumption*

I kinda stumbled upon something that I thought was weird. The head bolts looked aftermarket, at first a 13mm 6pt fit just nice, and snug, but then in spun, so I went to get a 13mm 12pt (thinking they were ARP) but that was too big. A 12mm 12pt was what it ended up being.

So I assumed that they were ARP's for a 6 bolt. (Went and rechecked my oil pan.. had the dent, so its a 7 bolt) Well when I finally removed them I put my 7 bolt ARPs in the thread and they fit nice and perfect, also the bolts that came out didnt have "ARP" stamped anywhere on it. So they weren't 6 bolt 12mm ARP's. WTF

After what seemed like forever, I finally got everything removed, and prepped to pull the head... but it wouldn't pull up..... Damn intake manifold bracket, it will get you every time . It was a PITA to remove and its definitely not going back in. (P.O said the owner before him rebuilt the motor *supposed to be around 40k on the rebuild*... was kinda hoping he removed it but I guess not)

So I finally got the head off, I'm not sure how the head gasket would look being my first pull, and just started working on cars, but it didn't appear to look great in my eyes. The cylinder walls looked really good, no scoring, and it looked like I could see my reflection in them. The pistons just looked like they had some carbon build up, but somehow piston #1 isnt at TDC anymore. The all appear midstroke.

From here I am cleaning everything up to put on my Felpro composite (Part No. HS 9627 PT-3) head gasket, ARP headstuds, gates water pump, and OEM timing belt/components using @BogusSVO's method's (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html)
(http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...r-how-clean-block-deck-pistons-installed.html)

Just wanted to see what you guys think just going off the pictures I attached, as well as any helpful tips or advice.

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

Okay so I was a lot more confident this time, hopefully everything checks out well. I attached some pics, but I have to find a drill bit, or another way to measure the tensioner arm/auto tensioner distance.



I started off w/ placing the Cam Sprocket lock tool in place. I wrapped the belt around the Intake Cam Sprocket, and then I had to pull a little bit to get it to sit properly around the Exhaust Cam Sprocket. After that I wrapped the belt to the inside the Idler Pulley, and then the Oil Sprocket (The Oil Sprocket rotated counter-clockwise towards the timing mark at the 12 o'clock position)I rotated the crank sprocket a couple teeth counter-clockwise then walked the belt over it, and aligned it according to the timing marks by rotating it back clockwise. Then I put in the tensioner tool, and turned it a little pass contact with the tension arm. When I went back under the car, I was able to pull the grenade pin in/out with ease. I then put the tension pulley tool in and aligned the pulley to rough 6 & 4 o'clock position. While holding that in place, I torqued the pulley bolt down. After I did this I was still able pull the pin in, and out with ease. I took off the zip ties, and rotated the crank 2 times. At this point everything still lined up correctly besides the Oil Sprocket.

(I left it sitting with the tensioner (arm) tool out, and the grenade pin out)

I waited about 20 minutes, and went back outside. I was able to slide the grenade pin in still. I rotated the crank about 4 more times, and everything still lined up according except the Oil Sprocket. (I was able to get the Oil Sprocket to align, but that was at TDC on the Exhaust stroke I believe.)

I am in the process of finding something besides a tape measure to confirm the tensioner arm/auto tensioner distance.
Here are a couple pics how it sits about 20 minutes ago.

 

[born2tune]

Just by eye-balling it from experience it looks within tolerance, maybe a tad low but still good!

you dont have a quality metal ruler?

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

born2tune- Thanks, I took your advice/used your method that time. Helped out a lot, and that was my first try doing it the way you explained. As for the metal ruler, unfortunately not. I hate working 3rd! or else I'd get the measurement.

 

[92 GSR-4]

PFC,


The piston on the hydraulic/auto tensioner looks like it came out too far. The auto tensioner is designed to compensate for slack in the belt as it stretches over time. When you install a fresh belt and set the tension, the piston in the auto tensioner should not be coming out to take up slack. There should be no slack in the belt for it to compensate for until you start running the motor and the belt starts to stretch.

The "tensioner arm" which has the big washer behind it that you were referring to should already be tight. Even with that bolt tightened the entire arm should freely swivel.

Here's my method. I've never had a T-belt failure and I'm building my 9th motor and doing probably my 30th T-belt install.

- Work clockwise when installing the belt, starting at the cams.

- Wrap belt over cams first, then secure with a clip or zip ties.

- Run belt around the idler pulley, oil pump sprocket, and crank sprocket. Usually I turn the crank sprocket counter-clockwise one tooth, put the belt on, then turn it clockwise to pull the slack out of the idler pulley side.

-Proceed to run the belt around the tensioner side until it's completely on.

- Set tension with whatever method you use. I don't have the threaded rod or any special tools, so I pry against the water pump with a flat head screwdriver and while I'm holding the tension on the belt, I tighten the 14mm bolt that locks the tensioner pulley on.

- With the tension set, pull the pin out of the hydraulic/auto tensioner. You should be able to immediately put the pin back in. I usually come back an hour, day, week later and am still able to put the pin back in the tensioner.