The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Have to drop the oil pan, but Trans. is in the way...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Status
Not open for further replies.

ChrisNelson

15+ Year Contributor
96
0
Sep 16, 2005
Bemidji, Minnesota
Well, I have to pull the oil pan off of my '95 GSX auto and the transfer case for the AWD is completely in the way of about 8 bolts on the passenger side of the oil pan.

My question is:
What is the best way to get to those bolts in the oil pan?

My best guess is to drain all the ATF and then pull off the 4 or 5 bolts that look like they are holding the transfer case to the transmission.

I'm going to go buy a haynes manual today, but I'd still like some experienced input on this!

Thanks! :dsm:
 
Your going to have to remove the transfer case no matter how you look at it. Another thing is, IIRC, there are 2 extra bolts holding the halfshaft on, take those off to get to a couple extra bolts.


Good Luck


Chris:laser:
 
Take a coat hanger and tie it under the driveshaft securely. Unbolt the dp then the 5 bolts for the transfer case, after that slid the transfer case too the left and and take a rubber mallet and tap the t-case off the driveshaft, or if your lucky it will slide right off. Then just unbolt the rest of the bolts and put it back together after you finish what your doing. Before doing this drain ## oil and tranny fluid. Also might as well replace t-case fluid along with the seal thats on the t-case wehre it slids on the tranny. This is how it was on my 1g so things might be a little different.
 
fwdturbobov1996 said:
Take a coat hanger and tie it under the driveshaft securely. Unbolt the dp then the 5 bolts for the transfer case, after that slid the transfer case too the left and and take a rubber mallet and tap the t-case off the driveshaft, or if your lucky it will slide right off. Then just unbolt the rest of the bolts and put it back together after you finish what your doing. Before doing this drain ## oil and tranny fluid. Also might as well replace t-case fluid along with the seal thats on the t-case wehre it slids on the tranny. This is how it was on my 1g so things might be a little different.


To add to this, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD HOLD ON THE XFER CASE! OMG Trust me, you need to have a really strong hold on the transfer case so you don't end up like me. :shhh:
http://dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198512

Chris:laser:
 
You guys are awesome! This is my first DSM and my first AWD car. So, sorry to sound like such a newb, but what is a DP?

I'm tackling this job tonight and I'd like to get a start on it ASAP!

I've rated all of your posts!
 
The section of your exhaust that run's directly under the oil pan DP=Down Pipe. I'd recomend unbolting it from the o2 housing, then just pull it off the exhaust hanger so you can move it around to get that t-case out and the oil pan.
 
dp=downpipe :thumb:

dont forget to get transmission fluid because when you pull the cv axles out you leak the tranmission fluid everywhere. i would plan a good time to do this because its kinda a pain. very easy to do but it was time consuming for myself
 
dnhieu said:
dp=downpipe :thumb:

dont forget to get transmission fluid because when you pull the cv axles out you leak the tranmission fluid everywhere. i would plan a good time to do this because its kinda a pain. very easy to do but it was time consuming for myself

He is not pulling the axles so there is no need to drain the tranny.

Anyways, remove the down pipe, remove the 5 bolts from the transfer case and slide it off of the output shaft. No need to drain either the tranny or tc as long as you dont pull the driveshaft out of the tc. Just drop it and slide it out of the way with the driveshaft still installed. Now remove the 2 bolts from the driver side axle carrier where it mounts to the rear of the block. Now you can get to all the pan bolts.
 
DUH! DP... I should've figured. I suppose it didn't register as something I had to do because the turbocharger & o2 housing aren't even in the car right now.

I really appreciate your guys' input because I would be totaly lost without your advice!
 
92awddsm said:
He is not pulling the axles so there is no need to drain the tranny.

Anyways, remove the down pipe, remove the 5 bolts from the transfer case and slide it off of the output shaft. No need to drain either the tranny or tc as long as you dont pull the driveshaft out of the tc. Just drop it and slide it out of the way with the driveshaft still installed. Now remove the 2 bolts from the driver side axle carrier where it mounts to the rear of the block. Now you can get to all the pan bolts.


Correct me if im wrong but does the fluid leak out of the that hole the transfer case goes onto the tranny? Or do i have this backwards. Only been a week since ive been under there LOL
 
fwdturbobov1996 said:
Correct me if im wrong but does the fluid leak out of the that hole the transfer case goes onto the tranny? Or do i have this backwards. Only been a week since ive been under there LOL

No. The tranny has a shaft that sticks out the the transfer case fits onto. The shaft out of the tranny has its own seal. And the input shaft into the tc also has its own seal. 2 seperate system that are self contained and use their own fluid. One doesnt seal the other.
 
92awddsm, you are the man! :cool:

Everything you said was totally correct and I now have my oil pan off! Thanks for everything!
 
I forgot to add that I used a floor jack sitting under the pass. side of the car to support the transfer case and driveshaft so that when I had all 6 bolts out I could just pry it off and onto the awaiting jack. It worked really slick! :thumb:
 
92awddsm said:
He is not pulling the axles so there is no need to drain the tranny.

Anyways, remove the down pipe, remove the 5 bolts from the transfer case and slide it off of the output shaft. No need to drain either the tranny or tc as long as you dont pull the driveshaft out of the tc. Just drop it and slide it out of the way with the driveshaft still installed. Now remove the 2 bolts from the driver side axle carrier where it mounts to the rear of the block. Now you can get to all the pan bolts.

ummm.....never thought about just unbolting the driverside cv-axle and pulling it to the side. good info for the next time i have to do this job :thumb:
 
dnhieu said:
ummm.....never thought about just unbolting the driverside cv-axle and pulling it to the side. good info for the next time i have to do this job :thumb:

If he's just pulling the oil pan, there really shouldn't even be any reason to be touching the cv joints at all. It's been awhile since I've touched a 2g but the axle is bolted to the back of the block, not underneath the oil pan.

Can't remember the frame setup on the 2g's but for 1g's the best way to do it is to remove the downpipe, transfer (if the car is on jackstands, you can just swing it to the side and not pull the driveshaft out), dustcover at the bottom of the tranny, and the crossmember that runs underneath the engine, also unbolt the oil return from the turbo. N/A's, I have no clue.
 
v8s_are_slow said:
If he's just pulling the oil pan, there really shouldn't even be any reason to be touching the cv joints at all. It's been awhile since I've touched a 2g but the axle is bolted to the back of the block, not underneath the oil pan.

Can't remember the frame setup on the 2g's but for 1g's the best way to do it is to remove the downpipe, transfer (if the car is on jackstands, you can just swing it to the side and not pull the driveshaft out), dustcover at the bottom of the tranny, and the crossmember that runs underneath the engine, also unbolt the oil return from the turbo. N/A's, I have no clue.

A 2g doesnt have the crossmember under the driver side of the pan like a 1g. And you still have to unbolt the axle carrier from the rear of the block because the cv hangs below the pan rail blocking 2 of the pan bolts.
 
92awddsm said:
A 2g doesnt have the crossmember under the driver side of the pan like a 1g. And you still have to unbolt the axle carrier from the rear of the block because the cv hangs below the pan rail blocking 2 of the pan bolts.

If I remember correctly though, you can use an extension and a swivel or one of those flex extensions (all 1/4 inch drive). I know what you're talking about now, but I've never had to remove a cv joint to drop the oil pan. I know that much. 1g or 2g.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g WTB CLEAN HVAC PARTS
    Good condition , clean please no rodent infestation
    • ames905
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted FIC Easytune
    Looking for a FIC Easytune box.
    • Stapl3
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale FIC 1220 Injectors AEM 320lph fuel pump with rewire kit
    FIC 1220 Injectors AEM 320lph fuel pump with rewire kit. 450 shipped to the lower 48 states.You...
    • elocneas
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Bastard 20g
    Bastard 20g turbo Like New
    • arodgst
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 97 GSX part out
    Ex-wife's project car part-out. Will be updating the list over the next few weeks and adding...
    • Type1DSMr
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top