drop the oil pan

[boosted-dsm]

how do i drop the oil pan on a 90 GSX.. the dp and pan arnt my prob.. i just dont know how to remove the xfer case then reessemble it..
ive heard of something falling off when you remove the xfer case and to not worrie about it just put it back on.

can someone help me.

 

[Auto RS T]

The x-fer case is no worry really. First you have to drop your down pipe so you can get at the x-fer case bolts.

Drain the transfer case.

Then you just unbolt the 5 (forgive me if I am wrong) bolts, just look with a light.

Then pull/pry the x-case from the tranny, careful the weight may suprise you.

It will swing down with the driveshaft and you simply pull it off the shaft, being careful not to damage the rear seal.


When I re-install I fill the case on the ground and slide it on the driveshaft. Then slide the tranny shaft splines into the x-case.

Put a bolt in and then you can rest for a minute, replace all bolts.

Bolt up exhaust.

 

[T_K]

Yes be careful not to drop the t-case once it's loose, because it will most probably fall on your face. I used wooden blocks strategically positioned so that once everything got loose it fell on them and not on me (everything means the driveshaft and the t-case).

Vfaq said it was 4 bolts but it's really 5 bolts (at least for '93 cases).

 

[boosted-dsm]

its 5 bolts... i have a 90

imm try that today. see how it goes. ill keep yall posted

 

[brute]

Last time I tried that, I had to give up after 3 or 4 days. I tried everything. I had a jack under it, I pryed with screwdrivers, it wouldn't budge. I couldn't do it for the life or me. So I just gave up.

 

[somdturbo]

Last time I tried that, I had to give up after 3 or 4 days. I tried everything. I had a jack under it, I pryed with screwdrivers, it wouldn't budge. I couldn't do it for the life or me. So I just gave up.

Rubber mallet?

 

[boosted-dsm]

ok i got a few questions...

if i removed the 5 bolts will the xfer case MOVE out of the way or DROP to the ground?

also... the skid plate.. i think it is.. next the pan by the drain plug.. in my chilton it says remove that.. BUT.. do i HAVE to.? ### noone has said anything about it.. so im thinking is there a way around it.. and if i do remove it.. what is that holding up? i dont need half my motor falling into a tilt ### of it.

 

[1990talon]

Brute There is a somewhat hidden one on the top of the transfer case did you get it there is five bolts not four.

 

[1990talon]

You have to drop it to the ground slid it side ways to remove it from the shaft then take it off the drive line set it aside tie the drive line up. also if you are careful and have changed the fluid in the transfer case recently you dont have to drain the fluid just keep the back of it up so the fluid dosent spill out.

 

[Auto RS T]

No, the x-fer case shouldn't just fall when you take the bolts out, it is still held up by the rear transmission output shaft, you slide it towards the drivers side to get it off the tranny.

I didn't mention the skid plate because the O.P. stated he knew how to get the pan off, you don't have to take the plate off to remove the x-fer case.

The motor should still be held in by all mounts. Use a floor jack with a piece of wood if you are worried about tilting.

Brute: Try a crow bar, screwdrivers give a lot of flex and don't really get the job done. Sounds like that baby is on there! I know I don't have to tell you to be careful not to damage the seal. For lack of better words, just "Work It!" Try grabbing the tail of the case and shaking it loose first.

I change the fluid everytime, no matter if any gear oil comes out or not. It is like a tranny flush in a way, I believe it keeps the inners a lot cleaner. You should see how clean my x-case fluid is!

 

[boosted-dsm]

ok ont he remove of the exhaust.. is the bracket i remove/take loose right before the CAT? its the only thing i see holdin it on. i dont have the brace on the motor on. i took it off when i swapped turbos... ?

 

[brute]

Trust me, I tried everything. This was months ago, though, so maybe when/if I try again, I'll have better luck. I used hammers, breaker bars, thick screwdrivers, thin crowbars... everything. But I'm not trying to hijack, so continue helpin the man.

 

[Auto RS T]

ok ont he remove of the exhaust.. is the bracket i remove/take loose right before the CAT? its the only thing i see holdin it on. i dont have the brace on the motor on. i took it off when i swapped turbos... ?

The bracket you remove is on the drivers side of the car, in front of the stock cat location.
I believe it is only four bolts to remove. Make sure the car and engine are supported well, not having either braces in makes me nervous.

You should really get that engine brace back in there, you may rip your motor mounts, the engine/tranny rolls back and forth and these are the mounts your missing.

 

[boosted-dsm]

ya that bracket is making me nervous! im trying to work around that..

just trying to get a complete understand before i dive back in.. its HOTT outside right now.. cant stand the sweat in my eyes... when im trying to figure something out.. if i know what im doing thats another story.. but burning eyes.. and guessin at shit.. tends to get irratted then i loose focus of what im doing then i start messin crap up.. so i think i can wait another hour or so for it to drop 10 degrees

 

[1990talon]

True I was not saying it is not a good idea to not change the fluid I was just saying that it can be done I know there is times when I dont even have the money to do what I am fixing so I put things like that off till I have the money. I do agree though it is a good idea to change the fluid. I am glad something was siad I didnt mean for any one to think it is a bad idea to change it because its not by any means!

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[boosted-dsm]

what kind of fluid would i get? tranny fluid? or is the xfer case a diff kinda fluid? also are there any gaskets or seals that are there that i need to be aware of?

for the record. im droppin the pan ### i have a stripped out hole on the oil return line. and i dont wanna throw a bigger bolt in it and drop shavvings in my pan for my oil filter to suck up n clog... and my pan seeps oil its ben doing it for YEARS. ### i have toz of sludgs n dried up n still wet oil ALL OVER everthing around the pan. and behind it. but not much in front of it. so i know its coming from the pan. so its just time to drop it.. tap the hole.. and throw some RTV grey around the lip and be done with it.

 

[Bmxr152]

There is a special fluid for the differential, here is a link to all you need to know http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclfluids.htm

 

[Auto RS T]

what kind of fluid would i get? tranny fluid? or is the xfer case a diff kinda fluid? also are there any gaskets or seals that are there that i need to be aware of?

for the record. im droppin the pan ### i have a stripped out hole on the oil return line. and i dont wanna throw a bigger bolt in it and drop shavvings in my pan for my oil filter to suck up n clog... and my pan seeps oil its ben doing it for YEARS. ### i have toz of sludgs n dried up n still wet oil ALL OVER everthing around the pan. and behind it. but not much in front of it. so i know its coming from the pan. so its just time to drop it.. tap the hole.. and throw some RTV grey around the lip and be done with it.

There are two seals on the x-fer case that you need to be careful not to damage. One is where the tranny output shaft goes into the case, the other is where the rear driveshaft comes in. If they are not damaged you dont have to replace them.

The Service manual says to use Hypoid gear oil SAE 75W-85W conforming to API specifications GL-4 or higher. Any of the fluids Bmxr152 posted in his link should work as long as they are for the x-case.

I was wondering how you are going to tap the hole to the same thread size if the threads have been stripped out? I don't see how you are going to tap metal that is not there.

 

[boosted-dsm]

Ok there are SOME threads left on there.. it will catch threads and begin to tightin down by hand but when you begin to use the rachet it will just spin n spin and never get tight. the first time it tried.. it would tightin down then like either loosin back up or back it self out. and i would have to tightin it back down again. NOW when i try it will just spin n spin with the rachet on but wont spin at all like its tight down with i hand thread it in.

so i know it has some threads left but not enough, ive been told "well why dont you try using a longer bolt" well. i would do that but my pan leaks around the seal. so with it being the way it is now. i might as well drop the pan and fix that prob so i dont have todo it at a later date. if i wanted to i could fix that hole. but using a perment stud or what not. but then ill still have the leak around the gasket. so i should just knock 2 birds with 1 stone here.

 

[Auto RS T]

Right. Do it right, take it off and fix the hole.

The problem I see is that when you attempt to tap the hole there will be no metal stock on the pan to fix the hole, when "attempting to tap" it will most likely rip out what threads are left.

You will possibly have to go to a slighlty bigger bolt than the stock one. Make sure it will fit through the return line bolt hole first. If you drill it out and tap one side I would do the other bolt hole the same size.

You may just have to get a new pan, if yours is beyond repair.

 

[boosted-dsm]

see heres the deal. if i CANT tap the hole because there just isnt enough threads left. im going to knock that bolt off and weld a new one on. that will fix the prob easly!

also i want to knock the few dents i have in the pan back out. and clean it up. im sure its got some kind of build up in it. and clean up under the car around it. and throw some grey RTV around it let it set for a few mins then put it back on.

sound good to you auto rs t ? im hopeing that will fix the prob. or at least thats what i have planned. if you think of something diff. please let me know.


AWWW i cant stand that .. if you use short term words.. it makes the #### over it..

 

[Auto RS T]

If it were my dented/stripped pan I would definately get a new one. I am guessing it is damaged near the oil pickup. I think the area around the pickup is very important.

I have actually replaced a pan on a Supercharged Monte Carlo recently because somone had jacked the vehicle up with it and crushed it in. The vehicle still ran but it wasn't the best idea to drive it in that condition.

I don't know if studding the oil pan is the right answer but I don't see why it wont work. I will leave that choice up to you. If you stud one side I would also stud the other, just to make sure it seals properly.

Using the grey RTV sounds fine to me. Probalably the only way to truly seal the pan without it weeping oil. The only thing different I am thinking is about getting the new pan, but if the dents can be straightened and the pan can be studded why not try it? I guess, I would really like to see the pan.

 

[boosted-dsm]

ok well i think i got everything understood on how to drop it. and i got a second hand to help me drop the xfer case tommorow. so i should be able to drop it then.

oh the pan. its not damaged up. it just has some normal wear n tear dents. its the orginal pan and has never been touched before. you can tell by its surroundings.*sp*. but ill snap some shots of the pan when i get it down. im not sure what ill use at the moment to pop those dents out. im just gunna be VERY careful not to hit it too hard and crack the metal. it being OLD and arldy bent in one direction. i dont want it to pop back out and send a crack down it.

im going to try n tap the hole first. if that done work. ill try a bigger bolt. if that dont work. ill stud both sides. and if THAT dont work... ill just knock off the washers in the pan and weld new ones on. and now that i think about it more.. i think that would be better then even trying to tap it.... what do you think?

 

[boosted-dsm]

ok well..

heres the update.. i decited to hold off on droppin the pan. i used a bigger bolt. with some black RTV.. im lettin the RTV sit over night because it got dark and had other things todo. so in the morning.. im gunna drop some oil in the car.. some water*gunna do a raditor flush once its running,so gunna use water for now, to see if it starts.*

hopeing it will fire up.

i have a new eprom ecu, TPS sensor on the TB. new turbo, new mani, new o2 houseing w/sensor, cleaned up SMIC n pipes.

so this fire up will test everything out.. WISH ME LUCK!!

 

[Auto RS T]

Don't forget to prime that new turbo before you start the car.