Patching the Oil Pan

[AlphaAssault]

So the oil pan on my GSX leaks every time I turn the engine off. It doesnt leak any oil while running, but any time I drive anywhere, it leaks a puddle about 3 inches in diameter. As you can imagine, this gets tiresome after a while. Right now i dont have a place to properly remove and reseal the oil pan. My question is whats the best method to simply patch the oil pan? I read that gray RTV works well as a sealant, but would it be equally suitable for patching the pan from the outside?

 

[spoonman]

When you need a oil change I say take out the bolts and drop the pan, clean off the mating surface on the pan and reinstall with rtv on the outer edge of the pan mating surface but not near the inside.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

No, because you will never get the area clean enough for it to last any real length of time. It might hold for a few days, but that's about it (if that long). You'll just have to "suck it up" and do it correctly...sorry.

 

[AlphaAssault]

Hmm, i see. Will some strong adhesive tape (stronger than duct tape) patch the leak up until I can get it repaired properly?

 

[spoonman]

You could try the tape but the pan would have to be very clean and the tape would have to be very adhesive, but used only as a temporary fix.

 

[Mikael SS]

I'd use a thin layer of silicone, then Liquid Steel over it. If its clean enough that liquid steel isn't going anywhere.

 

[Tsi_User]

No, because you will never get the area clean enough for it to last any real length of time. It might hold for a few days, but that's about it (if that long). You'll just have to "suck it up" and do it correctly...sorry.

Like he said, unless it's completely clean i'd say it's not really worth trying to patch it. There's so much crap down there that will stop anything from adhering properly unless it's completely clean.

 

[SBR Joe]

So the oil pan on my GSX leaks every time I turn the engine off. It doesnt leak any oil while running, but any time I drive anywhere, it leaks a puddle about 3 inches in diameter. As you can imagine, this gets tiresome after a while. Right now i dont have a place to properly remove and reseal the oil pan. My question is whats the best method to simply patch the oil pan? I read that gray RTV works well as a sealant, but would it be equally suitable for patching the pan from the outside?

Is this leaking from the mating surface or from somewhere else?


Joe

 

[RallyEclipse98]

The only other thing you could do, is get this product called j-b weld, its a small two part epoxy that you can spread over the lip of the pan, it might be a pain to drop the pan later on. i do NOT recommend tape at all, this will only be a headache to you.

I am only suggesting this because you said you can't do it properly. Doesn't a friend have somewhere you could do it though? But back to what I was saying... I used JB weld, but specifically JB Waterweld to do my oil pan on a GM 3800 Series II engine. The pan was leaking so I cleaned the surface of the leak with some shop towels and then applied the weld. It hardens extremely fast and worked extremely well for me. Took about a minute to apply once the car was jacked up. Go for it if it's your last option because it is sort of "rigging it". It was my only option at the time and that's why I went for it. Good luck.

 

[AlphaAssault]

Is this leaking from the mating surface or from somewhere else?


Joe

Yea, its leaking from the front where the oil pan meets up with the engine.

So, JB Weld or another form of epoxy? I understand that liquid steel is not epoxy, right?

 

[RallyEclipse98]

Yea, its leaking from the front where the oil pan meets up with the engine.

So, JB Weld or another form of epoxy? I understand that liquid steel is not epoxy, right?

If it's leaking there are you sure you want to do a "rigged" fix? It may be hard to reverse. If you're going to patch it I stand behind JB waterweld 100%.

 

[AlphaAssault]

If it's leaking there are you sure you want to do a "rigged" fix? It may be hard to reverse. If you're going to patch it I stand behind JB waterweld 100%.

I dont have a problem with rigging it. I realize that its not the preferred way to fix things, but if it stops the leak, then Im all for it. My my car is just a DD, I dont have the money to make it crisp and clean like most of the members here. On the note of fixing the leak properly, whenever that may be, what is the best way to get rid of JB Weld? is there any other substance similar to JB that would get the job done that would also be easier to remove?

 

[RallyEclipse98]

I dont have a problem with rigging it. I realize that its not the preferred way to fix things, but if it stops the leak, then Im all for it. My my car is just a DD, I dont have the money to make it crisp and clean like most of the members here. On the note of fixing the leak properly, whenever that may be, what is the best way to get rid of JB Weld? is there any other substance similar to JB that would get the job done that would also be easier to remove?

Only way to get rid of JB weld is to grind it off. It turns about as tough as metal when the stuff dries. An alternative that will come off easier... idk.

 

[plymubishi]

If your just goeing with a quick slap it togher I agree with the JB Weld people,its cheap and avalable anywhere. It just is a pain to get back off to fix the problem right. You could always ignore it until you fix it right one time and when anyone sais anything play it off like it was there before you got there or tell people its sweat from all the horsepower, not a oil leak(did that for a good 4-5 months with my truck)

 

[tbonitz301]

You might want to try a product called geo-cel. Its like silicone only times ten. Its used to fix leaks that are still wet or leaking. A scraper or screwdriver will take it off when your ready for the permanent fix. You can find it at a hardware or lowes in the roofing section

 

[RallyEclipse98]

Search the topic on DSMtalk under my username. There's a thread about it. Mostly people saying don't do it though, but I did.

 

[dsmlifestyle]

I would stray away from JB weld if you do plan on properly repairing the damage in the future. Duct tape may last a few days, but the oil will quickly break down the adheasive. If you do patch the leak, thoroughly clean the area with some purple power, apply some gray or black RTV, let it cure then cover it with rubber tape.

An alternative to JB weld is wet surface putty. Here's a link: Oil Leak Detection and Leak Repair Products by TDS

 

[AlphaAssault]

I would stray away from JB weld if you do plan on properly repairing the damage in the future. Duct tape may last a few days, but the oil will quickly break down the adheasive. If you do patch the leak, thoroughly clean the area with some purple power, apply some gray or black RTV, let it cure then cover it with rubber tape.

An alternative to JB weld is wet surface putty. Here's a link: Oil Leak Detection and Leak Repair Products by TDS

Do you know where I could get some of that stuff, other than from their web site? Also, is that and the geo-cel about the same thing? How well do these sealants hold up to the heat of a running engine?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Please do NOT use JB Weld to fix a leak between the oil pan and the block (oil pump housing if I'm reading correctly).

It really is a very simple job to fix. A $4 tube of Ultra-Grey silicone, 4 6mm x ~1 1/2" long studs, a hydraulic jack, at least 1 jackstand (preferably 2, or better yet...4) and a total of about 2 hours screwing off will get the job done.

Surely you have to know somebody that has the jack and jackstands. If not, a down-n-dirty "cheapo" set can be had from Harbor Freight or the like for ~$30 that will work for a while. If you own a DSM you should already own a 1/4" drive 10mm and a 12mm socket and a ratchet.

Pull the pan at your next oil change. Clean both mating surfaces, then apply the silicone to the pan with ~1/8" bead, going around the bolt holes as well. Use the 4 studs (one in each corner so the pan doesn't slide around while trying to install the bolts), remember the 2 short ones go into the oil pump cover. Just snug the bolts "hand-tight" then replace the 4 studs with the remaining 4 bolts and let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour. Then tighten to the recommended value.

After that, let the car sit another 30 minutes to an hour before replacing the oil and you shouldn't have to worry about it again.

But damn...don't do such a half-ass job on such an easy fix. This one isn't a "deep pockets" kind of task.

Remember..."cars are not pieces of shit, people turn them into one".

 

[AlphaAssault]

Im not planning on using JB weld. I like the idea of that wet surface putty. Should patch it up nicely until I can do the job properly; plus its easy to remove.

 

[Boomer420s]

But damn...don't do such a half-ass job on such an easy fix. This one isn't a "deep pockets" kind of task.

Remember..."cars are not pieces of shit, people turn them into one".



That says it best. If you stop the leak, how much of a priority will this be to you to fix? Fix it right the first time. If you don't have the tools, time, space...take it to a shop. Watch them do it. Than proceed to kick your self in the ass for now knowing how much this is NOT a pain in the ass to do yourself.

 

[tqmx1]

If you are still leaking try Permatex Form-A-Seal Leak Repair PN765-2650. I have not used it but have herd it works good on low pressure leaks. Follow Directions.

 

[RallyEclipse98]

Surely you have to know somebody that has the jack and jackstands. If not, a down-n-dirty "cheapo" set can be had from Harbor Freight or the like for ~$30 that will work for a while.

Hmm. I wouldn't want to be under getting oil pan off when I found out how long "a while" is. Ha. I agree though, do it right the first time unless you absolutely have to rig it.

 

[meliketoball]

But damn...don't do such a half-ass job on such an easy fix. This one isn't a "deep pockets" kind of task.

Remember..."cars are not pieces of shit, people turn them into one".



That says it best. If you stop the leak, how much of a priority will this be to you to fix? Fix it right the first time. If you don't have the tools, time, space...take it to a shop. Watch them do it. Than proceed to kick your self in the ass for now knowing how much this is NOT a pain in the ass to do yourself.

QFT. Just do it. It'll be worth it in the end. Just keep a close eye on the oil levels (fill up if necessary.) When you have the time or the place to do it, reseal it.

 

[kergilman]

Please do NOT use JB Weld to fix a leak between the oil pan and the block (oil pump housing if I'm reading correctly).

It really is a very simple job to fix. A $4 tube of Ultra-Grey silicone, 4 6mm x ~1 1/2" long studs, a hydraulic jack, at least 1 jackstand (preferably 2, or better yet...4) and a total of about 2 hours screwing off will get the job done.

Surely you have to know somebody that has the jack and jackstands. If not, a down-n-dirty "cheapo" set can be had from Harbor Freight or the like for ~$30 that will work for a while. If you own a DSM you should already own a 1/4" drive 10mm and a 12mm socket and a ratchet.

Pull the pan at your next oil change. Clean both mating surfaces, then apply the silicone to the pan with ~1/8" bead, going around the bolt holes as well. Use the 4 studs (one in each corner so the pan doesn't slide around while trying to install the bolts), remember the 2 short ones go into the oil pump cover. Just snug the bolts "hand-tight" then replace the 4 studs with the remaining 4 bolts and let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour. Then tighten to the recommended value.

After that, let the car sit another 30 minutes to an hour before replacing the oil and you shouldn't have to worry about it again.

But damn...don't do such a half-ass job on such an easy fix. This one isn't a "deep pockets" kind of task.

Remember..."cars are not pieces of shit, people turn them into one".

Yeah, if you keep the car you will create a larger problem later on when you try to get that oil pan off...or the poor bastard who buys it from you...