Harmonic Balancer gone bad...happen to anyone else? [MERGE]

[Warhead2k3]

They're 12mm bolts, at least on the 4g63.

 

[Mattitude v1]

The pulley is different on the 420a, there is just one 12mm bolt.

 

[Mattitude v1]

I rented a tool at autozone called a Chrylser Harmonic Puller and I'm using that to get the pulley off. However, I can't crank on it without the pulley rotating clockwise. How do I prevent it from rotating? I have the car in gear with the break slammed down and leaned a metal rod against the pulley to try to prevent it from rotating but the rod bent.

 

[luv2rallye]

I'm not sure you are using the puller correctly or more likely don't have the right one for a dsm. It almost sounds like you are pulling the pulley against itself (or pulling the bolt you put in (ie. crankshaft) against the pulley). My 99 Mitsu book shows no bolt you put in the crankshaft end to attach to or pull against using the puller. Rather it shows (after removing the pulley bolt) a 3 leg puller with a center screw in it that goes against the crankshaft end. The 3 legs go through the 3 slots in the pulley and pull against the back side of the pulley. So turning the puller screw puts outward force thru the arms to pull on the back side of the pulley.

 

[Mattitude v1]

I'm not sure you are using the puller correctly or more likely don't have the right one for a dsm. It almost sounds like you are pulling the pulley against itself (or pulling the bolt you put in (ie. crankshaft) against the pulley). My 99 Mitsu book shows no bolt you put in the crankshaft end to attach to or pull against using the puller. Rather it shows (after removing the pulley bolt) a 3 leg puller with a center screw in it that goes against the crankshaft end. The 3 legs go through the 3 slots in the pulley and pull against the back side of the pulley. So turning the puller screw puts outward force thru the arms to pull on the back side of the pulley.

I have a Chrysler engine, not a Mitsu engine. The dealership and an NT guy told me to get the Chrysler puller, as the other did not work. This is a 3 leg puller that pulls against the back side of the pulley. There is one screw that goes through the center hole of the puller and screws a little bit into the crankshaft bolt hole. It screws in until it contacts a flat nut-like surface on the puller. I've turned the bolt as much as humanly possible, but the puller does not budge. I'm going to try to use air tools if I can get a hold of them.

 

[luv2rallye]

The info I gave IS for your 420A Chyrsler NT engine which is also in my 99 Mitsu book. Anyway, after your last post it sounds like you are doing it correctly and have the correct puller (your first post didn't sound quite right to me). Perhaps some PB Blast where the pulley meets the crank and some light tapping on the pulley may help before the next attempt. Good luck.

 

[DiabloRT]

I am going to be replace the Harmonic Dampner / Crank Pulley on my 97 GST.

I will be using new bolts and found the torque spec to be 18 lbs.

But my question is - Should I use loctite to keep these bolts from vibrating loose? Or should I use anti-seize for easy removal in the future?

I leaning toward the antiseize...

 

[BUCK]

The softer Blue Loctite is a nice compromise...

 

[ItsStockOfficer]

It won't come off and they will never be hard to break. Just throw em in.

 

[leet]

I didn't use loctite, and they are still at 18ft.lbs. I just checked it the other day on a whim

 

[Strm Trpr]

Service Manuals will tell you where to apply anti-sieze and lok-tite.
It appears you don't have a service manual.... JK
Anti-Sieze on sparkplugs, O2 Sensors, well all exhaust screws and nuts, oh and lug nuts too....
Lok-Tite only where specified....

 

[DiabloRT]

Service Manuals will tell you where to apply anti-sieze and lok-tite.
It appears you don't have a service manual.... JK
....

Yeah there is nothing in my TM 9-1005-212-25 about it. Time to get a DSM manual.



For those of you wondering, just do a google or yahoo search to find out what a
TM 9-1005-212-25 is.

 

[Defiant]

Neither. Bit of oil, all wiped off, just for corrosion protection and to prevent galling while torquing to spec. Things like wheels and similar rotating assemblies will tend to tighten themselves if the threads have a chance to (the manual specifies no anti-seize on the lug nuts for this reason).

 

[Strm Trpr]

(the manual specifies no anti-seize on the lug nuts for this reason).

Well then I stand corrected....
Thanks Defiant, I knew I could count on you....

DiabloRT, you don't need a factory service manual, just get a chiltons or a haynes, they're thorough enough....

 

[Strm Trpr]

Yeah there is nothing in my TM 9-1005-212-25 about it. Time to get a DSM manual.



For those of you wondering, just do a google or yahoo search to find out what a
TM 9-1005-212-25 is.

^^^ that is probably the coolest thing I've seen....
I could buy the blueprints for a B-52 Bomber... for a whole $4.95....

 

[Defiant]

Oh, take a look on eBay. CDs full of every patent, military manual, and who knows what all else is out there.

 

[BUCK]

Things like wheels and similar rotating assemblies will tend to tighten themselves if the threads have a chance to (the manual specifies no anti-seize on the lug nuts for this reason).

Sorry but NO - not buying that tightening BS & you DO need Anti-Sieze on the POS DSM Lug Nuts - period.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Sorry but NO - not buying that tightening BS & you DO need Anti-Sieze on the POS DSM Lug Nuts - period.

You know that's what I thought.
I broke 2 just trying to get my damn PSF wheel off from when the previous owner probably pounded on them with a 1/2" drive impact gun....

 

[Defiant]

Sorry but NO - not buying that tightening BS & you DO need Anti-Sieze on the POS DSM Lug Nuts - period.

Ah. We seem to have a divergent opinion.

Well, I don't write their books, I just read 'em.

 

[BUCK]

I said "sorry" - But if you agree with that statement in the Manual then yes we do disagree - there's a LOT of BS in that Manual & yes I own a Manual set too - But it's up to us "experts" to discern BS when we see it & I'm not gonna stand by & watch Posts of guys with galled Lug Nuts stripped out in the Hubs with Wheels they can't get off & not say something...

& BTW - we didn't put Anti-Seize on the Studs of Sub-Safe joints in Nuclear Submarines so they'd sink...

 

[Defiant]

I said "sorry"

Well, I wasn't sure it was truly sincere.

I'm not gonna stand by & watch Posts of guys with galled Lug Nuts stripped out in the Hubs with Wheels they can't get off & not say something...

Now you sound like they aren't supposed to just twist off, and they're supposed to unscrew or something.

& BTW - we didn't put Anti-Seize on the Studs of Sub-Safe joints in Nuclear Submarines so they'd sink...

Yeh, but how much rotation and road vibration were those subjected to?

And when did Chrysler give up on left-handed threads on half their lug studs, anyway?

 

[FourG63GST]

On cold starts, my car hesitates starting. It usually wont start till the 3rd try cranking.

Starter is new. Battery is new. Alternator is new.

When it starts though, A loud squealing sound comes from the alternator belt. Everytime I rev, it squeals louder. As I try to rev it, the RPMS go drop and car almost stalls instead of the RPM's going up. What is causing this?

 

[gstowner]

My car kinda squeals too when its cold. It doesn't hesitate to start but it does squeal a little bit. kinda sounds like its coming from back by the intake.

 

[FourG63GST]

Okay?


Anyone else actually know why its happening and a solution?

 

[StyleElements]

umm, why dont you try tightening the belt ................