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GVR4: so close to a 10

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Nate Crisman

10+ Year Contributor
749
6
Nov 26, 2008
Blairstown, New_Jersey
Went to Island tonight with GVR4 #139. 100# lighter, on racegas, with bigger springs in the tial wastegate. I did not get time to make that 4" intake pipe so I just ran it with open turbo & missing headlight.

Total weight was about 3060lb. Boost was still dropping off to 24psi. I must have some other issue, maybe a leak in the piping.

Anyway, here are the runs:

11.523 @ 122.00 1.721 had tires set to 30psi, I spun then hard and let off in first gear. boost was at street setting of 25psi

11.732 @ 120.81 1.763 Tires down to 17psi, dead hooked and bogged the launch.

11.329 @ 121.72 1.549 good launch, early 1-2 shift at 7000. Boost spiking to 26, setting down to 24psi.

11.104 @ 123.36 1.492 Awesome launch @ 6600rpm. not a hint of spin, the car just took off. all clean gear changes with the throttle down at about 7800rpm. Boost hit 28 for a little bit in 3rd then went back down to 25. I'd guestimate that 75% of the run the boost was under 25psi.

Fifth run I got an even better launch, but broke the drivers rear axle inside the outer CV boot midway through first gear. The car came out even harder, Id bet a mid 1.4 60'. I left at 6750rpm with about 14psi on 2step. I had raised the boost controller, added 2* more timing, and leaned out the AF a bit more for this run too hoping to see a 10.xxx. :tear:

That 11.10 moved me up to #9 on the DSMtimes GVR4 list. Cool and all to break into the top 10, but I really wanted that 10.xxx. Damn

So, while I still think the car had a 10 in it for the night, there is still something wrong in the boost control setup. Seems increasing the duty cycle on the AEM controller gives me a bigger spike, but it always settles down to about 24psi at high rpm. I'll have to do a leak test asap. Increasing the spring pressure in the Tial external from 1.0 to 1.4bar seems to have changed nothing.

Air temps were also not very good, starting in the 60s at the line on most runs and getting past 115*F at the traps, about 55*F gain in temp! That's pretty bad, Im starting to suspect the fmic core is holding back quite a bit of power and am suspicious of it being part of the boost drop issue.

I think Im going to try and make some graphs of the boost and rpm logs, post, and see what others think.

ACT250R came out and made some videos for me, Ill try and get them uploaded to youtube tomorrow. He was a super help and good advise the whole night.:wavey: Thanks.
 
Nice Nate! Right down there! As soon as you get the issues ironed out, I'm sure you'll hit that 10! DSS axles maybe?

Congrats!
 
id be interested to know more about the suspention setup/spring rates, bushings, tire/wheel combo etc. thats a deadly 60ft.
 
id be interested to know more about the suspention setup/spring rates, bushings, tire/wheel combo etc. thats a deadly 60ft.

The car has for 60' related mods:

D2 coilovers that are the "GVR4 specific" spring rates. not sure what they are as I got them used.

ES suspension bushings
Prothane engine mounts
front swaybar is gone
rear swaybar is stock 1g awd dsm

Wheel are crappy 16x7 Prime brand ..18.5lb each:ohdamn:

Tires are 26x9.5x16" Hoosier quick time pro bias ply dot drag tires. I ran them at 17psi, they are really just regular wrinkle wall slicks with two grooves cut into them to make them "treaded". The tires weigh 17lb each, very light.

I was launching at 6600rpm and pretty much just dropping the clutch hard. On the pass that broke it came out HARD. On the previous passes I wasn't on the 2 step limiter for very long and left at like 4-6psi of boost. On the broke pass it built 14psi. BIG difference. If it would hold together, driveline wise, I bet I could go 1.4's constantly.

LOVE those tires.
 
any idea of when your vid will be up??? wanna see

well, it's likely going to be a couple of days. My laptop got messed up this week, so I'm computerless till next week when ups brings the new one that's capable of converting video. Right now iv just got an iPhone and a circa 2005 mac mini with 512mb ram, neither of which is going to cut the mustard on making YouTube videos
 
Nate---sounds like you would have solid 1.40's no doubt! Maybe you could launch when about 10 psi is built and that might be the happy medium.:aha:

As my Galant is only a few days away(trucking it in from California)and my excitement builds, I have a a question.....how much larger is the DSM rear sway than the GVR4? I still have my stock rear talon bar with energy bushings in the basement and would use it if the difference in size is significant.
 
Nice runs Nate! I'm sure you'll get into the tens once the boost issue is sorted out.
Yes, that's a large increase in your air temps. 65* to 115* is a 9.6% increase in absolute temperature.

Notes from my 10.7 time a couple weeks ago showed my temps going from 119*F to 145*F, which is a
4.5% increase. I have a ETS 25x12x3.5 core.
Here's a good thread to compare other fmic air temps. Random FMIC information with a little turbo info mixed in..... - Buschur Forums
HTH
 
The QTP is an awesome tire I must say. I made the mistake of buying the MT ET Streets, in a similar size, there 10lbs heavier per tire than the QTP's and not as good since there a radial vs the bias ply. Next year on the new setup I will be sticking with the ET streets to get a handle on the new power, than going with the QTP's soon after. I should have purchased them in the first place.

I know I can manage a better 60 than the 1.8's I usually cut, however its cold up here now (frost at night), and the track is only open for a couple more weeks. Back in the summer I hit at 1.6 without launching the car TOO hard, but because of the strict rules I always had to let off to prevent running under 11.5 without a bar (I was in a 11.50 dial class anyways).

Thanks for the info. Great 60s there.

Whats the advantage in removing the front sway bar to helping with the 60?
 
LOL ebay BOV, intercooler, and exhaust manifold. On a PTE 50trim. NICE!

Yeah I know I know.
The bov seems to Function perfect. No issue
the exhaust manifold seems to work fine, I did have to do some portwork to make the flange match up to the head.

The fmic core, well, I'm itching to swap it out for a Garret core, but it's performance has been ok so far for a $250 part. The pte turbo, iv always used precision turbos with success, this is maybe my 7th one and iv not had to warranty one yet off a personal car.

I unfortunately do t have the cash to blow on brand name everything and best of the best parts. No $1500 fp turbochargers, $1200 shearer headers, $700 dsmlink or the like on my car. I build DSM style....meaning budget! A very large number of parts on the car were either snagged off cars I parted out, traded for, or bought used.

I think iv got about $8200 into the car total. That's including buying a running vr4 and a nice body shell, all the mods, all the Maintenance parts, everything. IMHO. Pretty good results for the investment.
 
so whats the advantage to running no front sway bar to improve 60's?
 
Fox body guys rave about the better traction from removing the front sway bar. . . Lets the bady rock to the back more, IIRC. With Front Wheel power (which in included in AWD), I'm not sure it's better to put more rocking motion to the back, because your front diff is usually open, and then you could have 3 tires cease motion with one remaining (up front) just blazing.

But it would allow for more "give" in the down motion the wheels need to make in the front. I've never done this but it makes sense. . .It would allow the wheels to move independedntly. As the body rocks back it usually rolls too. And this would reduce the contact patch on one front tire more than another. Having the wheels less tied together, when they can move separate, this could give the springs more of a chance to push the wheel down when it comes up. Because with the sway bar attached, when one spring is being compressed, it sends a force to the other spring on the other side that encourages compression.
 
so whats the advantage to running no front sway bar to improve 60's?

Really, the only reason the front swaybar is gone: 8.5lb

removing it on a rwd stick axle car allows the front to "twist" more keeping the rear axle "more flat" for even traction. On stick axle cars the rear axle car rotate which binds up the suspension pushes down the pass tire and tries to lift the drivers tire.

We don't have that problem since the rear diff is solidly bollted to the unibody. My gut says the weight loss is far more benefit than any minor change in roll stiffness. I'm likely going to ditch the rear bar too for another 10lb weight loss.
 
I don't run a front sway either, for the weight loss. I do run a Suspension tech rear sway...I remember Shepherd saying that helped his launches WAY back. I basically mimiced his set up with JIC's. You must have missed my question up above, but, I found the answer I think. Not sure how much bigger the stock DSM bar is over the Galant rear bar, but, I've got the car now and it seems the DSM bar will not work on the Galant unless the 4WS equip is removed. There is a distinct bend in the Galant bar near the rear rack on either side. My GVR4 is BONE stock so I will enjoy it like it is for a while.

Anyway, good luck if you run again this year and I'll be hoping to see you hit the 10's at your next outing, no pressure though Nate:D
 
Nope no pressure,, that's for sure.

I had the car on the lift sitting since the track last wednesday procrastinating about swapping the axle. go to work on it yesterday and find a big puddle of oil on the ground. lift up car, it dripping like mad between the trans and xcase. Pull off downpipe and xcase to find my rear trans to block bolt ready to fall out. Trans pulled away from block about 1/2" and the front ear of the engine block cracked off. Pretty sure the oil leak is coming out of the crack.

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My tranny to block bolts keep coming loose, I'v tightened the top ones twice, the rear 12mm twice since building the car. The front one never came loose and was still tight. Unfortunatly, from the trans getting loose on the back side it seems the block was getting flexed when the clutch pedal pushed in and eventually broke off. SUX, this is effectivly a reset button on the build as the engine's going to have to come out to weld that chunk back in. Or replace the shortblock, which would be ultimate suckage, as it's perfect 155 compression.

I'm not a happy camper as well that I'm not going to be able to get another chance for a 10.xxx and will have to come to Island carless for the meet.
 
Nope no pressure,, that's for sure.

I had the car on the lift sitting since the track last wednesday procrastinating about swapping the axle. go to work on it yesterday and find a big puddle of oil on the ground. lift up car, it dripping like mad between the trans and xcase. Pull off downpipe and xcase to find my rear trans to block bolt ready to fall out. Trans pulled away from block about 1/2" and the front ear of the engine block cracked off. Pretty sure the oil leak is coming out of the crack.

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My tranny to block bolts keep coming loose, I'v tightened the top ones twice, the rear 12mm twice since building the car. The front one never came loose and was still tight. Unfortunatly, from the trans getting loose on the back side it seems the block was getting flexed when the clutch pedal pushed in and eventually broke off. SUX, this is effectivly a reset button on the build as the engine's going to have to come out to weld that chunk back in. Or replace the shortblock, which would be ultimate suckage, as it's perfect 155 compression.

I'm not a happy camper as well that I'm not going to be able to get another chance for a 10.xxx and will have to come to Island carless for the meet.

Damn man....F**K that sucks! :ohdamn:

Well, only thing to do is repair as soon as it's possible. Sorry to hear Nate!

Meet at Island?:confused:
 
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