The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

GSX... with a bad cyl

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DSMGary

10+ Year Contributor
113
1
Jun 27, 2010
Toronto, ON, Canada
Hi all,

I have been looking for an automatic 2G DSM as my daily... I see this advert on craigslist... please see below... it looks to me that the guy is asking too much and is perhaps hiding something... i have not seen the car yet... u will try to make an appointment to view it soon... Please let me know if this sounds like a big job or not... ALSO he does not mention what year the gsx is...


Eclipse Gsx - $4000
Auto, black on tan. need gone ASAP. 119xxx

Good: Greedy Bov From 2010 Evo (two weeks old)
Greedy turbo timer
two tens MTX subs full trunk box
Falkin low pro tires on core racing rims 80% tread left
Leather, power everything+sunroof
Extremely well maintained have recites for everything over $4000 invested in last year and a half

The BAD:
Cylinder #3 has a lower compression then the rest #1=180 #2=170 #3=90 #4=170
This is most likely caused by a sticky valve car still runs and can still be driven.

this may be fixed by something as easy as a fuel system cleaner or the head would have to be pulled.

Have a great looking/running eclipse! do it yourself or get a mechanic to do it for around 1000 bucks
 
The car doesn't come with any extra parts to make me think it's worth 4k with low compression.


I don't see it being a stick valve or being as easy to clean with a fuel system cleaner.

I would offer 2k cash at the most.
 
yeah good point guys... What are normal compression test values for the 4g63 anyways... it seems like the numbers are high for a turbo car.... no...?
 
Good point, didn't notice that. Yeah those numbers are a little high. Maybe ok for a freshly rebuilt engine. I thought they were supposed to be around 150-160. I could be wrong though. All the cars i've ever own are around 130ish. Mainly because of altitude I think. Or I have terrible luck.
 
u r in the rockies... but the alt should not have much if any effect on the compression a cylinder makes... from what i remember... its a differential of pressure that we are interested in... just my 2 cents... interested to see what others have to say about the car and the comp... Thanks!
 
It never is as simple as" pour in a bottle of" I had a car with low compression in cyl#1 and the head was f--up. Thats way to much, seems shady to me. I would pass or do my own test as stated above and offer less.
 
If the air is already thin when entering the cylinder, logic tells me that when compressed, it will be LESS air. I could be wrong. When it comes to boost, now thats another story.
 
90 sounds really low. I would do a wet test and see if that brings the compression back up.

If not your looking at cylinderhead warp, bent valves, cracked valve guides.
 
If the air is already thin when entering the cylinder, logic tells me that when compressed, it will be LESS air. I could be wrong. When it comes to boost, now thats another story.

Hey, Logic says u are right... (i think...?) ... does this mean u make less power when u in higher elevations? anyone here a thermodynamics/barometric guru...?
 
Thanks for the response. Looks like iam not going to buying this one. After about 5 mins of talking to him on the phone, the owner says that i am asking too many questions and that he just wants to sell it fast.

And thats the end of it...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top