2G greyforestgst's "project hood vents"

[Turboniam]

Originally posted by bluelaser92


Try making the holes similar in shape to the right and left "triangle-shaped" holes in the front bumper. That will probably look a little better. Just experiment with a few different shapes until you find something that is functional and looks good as well.

I also think that the 2 center hood vents on a supra hood would look awesome on our hoods. Someone earlier mentioned how it looked like a happy face, but if the vents were shaped supra-style, it would make an evil, menacing face.

Another thing you can do, is actually trim the bumper AND bumper cover to accomadate the airflow or size of the intercooler.

I've seen the 97-99 2g guys trim their bumpers and it looks good.... I've also seen some cool looking designs from 1gs like this pic.

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Some bumpers may look better than others where trimming is concerned.

 

[Turboniam]

Another idea for those interested in heat extractor "louvres," is to buy the Evolution 8 hood vent from the dealership... I went by today and priced one out... depedning on who you buy it from the price could range from $80-$100.

 

[greyforestgst]

Originally posted by MNGSX
I've done some ruminating.

Below the passanger wiper on the winshield base cowl make a sunken cowel with the opening at the upper firewall just below the weater strip.

Cut out the fire wall to match. 3-4" tall and about 9-10" wide. I have'nt measured yet. But there is a nice open flat area that size above and to the right of the cruise control box on 2gs. The vent would pretty much be below the passenger wiper arm invisible to the untrained eye.

It would flow out and up at the base of the windshield when stoped and actually may flow in when in motion.

The ABS windshield cowel is alot more user friendly to mod than painted sheet metal.

A little plastic from a donor cars cowel.. some epoxy and a heat gun ought to cut it. You can even purposely leave a ledge at the bottom of the vent to stop water and install a drain tube. Much like sunroofs have. You could also just cut out the plastic and install screen but I think a real molded cowel will flow more air.

thats a damn good idea

now that you mention that, maybe some lower firewall vents that go out the side of hte fenders ala firebirds would be useful. still, im gonna look in to your method and maybe pioneer it.

water might get on the battery, thatd be my only concern

 

[awild]

I'm thinking for the 1g ppl, a good spot to cut would be near the top (closest to windshield) portion of the timing cover bump on the hood. I think that would flow very well. I'll see if I can try and photocrap something

 

[awild]

Couldnt find many pics of the back of the timing bump, so I played with the front. Here's a pic with more to follow

 

[MNGSX]

Originally posted by greyforestgst


thats a damn good idea

now that you mention that, maybe some lower firewall vents that go out the side of hte fenders ala firebirds would be useful. still, im gonna look in to your method and maybe pioneer it.

water might get on the battery, thatd be my only concern

1. Use the baffle/gutter with drain tube I talked about.
2. Anti corrosion silicone spray should be on that battery already
3. Put that battery in the hatch for weight distribution.

 

[powells85]

By accident I once ran my car with the hood only latched and not fully closed. I kept wondering why it felt so fast until I realized the hood wasn't closed fully. Great to flow air in over your engine to cool and also a good way to get cooler air to your air filter (if it is in your engine bay). Just an idea for you guys to go on.

 

[98eclipseRS]

awild what front lip is that you have on your car. It looks very badass.

 

[awild]

Originally posted by 98eclipseRS
awild what front lip is that you have on your car. It looks very badass.

That blue car isnt mine that I photoshopped. And as far as I know that lip comes on the Laser RS's.

 

[focusedrage]

Originally posted by powells85
By accident I once ran my car with the hood only latched and not fully closed. I kept wondering why it felt so fast until I realized the hood wasn't closed fully. Great to flow air in over your engine to cool and also a good way to get cooler air to your air filter (if it is in your engine bay). Just an idea for you guys to go on.

Yeah, but that would incresee drag alot, although at least you know where a vent would best be

 

[neuralracing]

A vent in the front would increase air flow in... but isn't our problem getting the hot air out?

 

[focusedrage]

well dosnt the trd wide body for the supra have those vents on the fenders... i think that those wide bidy fenders that are set out from the door line would help with ventalation.

I wonder how tricky it would be to set up one of those v coolers, where you angle the radiator and the intercooler in a v, so the air is forced thorough both... we really just need a hood like on the evo

 

[98eclipseRS]

Originally posted by awild


That blue car isnt mine that I photoshopped. And as far as I know that lip comes on the Laser RS's.

ah i see I wonder if it would fit on a talon? I guess i will have to look into that.

 

[LandoAWD]

Its part of the cover. I'll trade you if your car is red

Now, back on topic

 

[greyforestgst]

Originally posted by MNGSX


1. Use the baffle/gutter with drain tube I talked about.
2. Anti corrosion silicone spray should be on that battery already
3. Put that battery in the hatch for weight distribution.

i wasnt worried about corrosion; i was thinking during a heavy rain a mist covering the entire top of the battery, and linking both the terminals together, which would screw things up for a moment until the water vaporized from heat.

moving the battery to the hatch would work good on an awd. fwd needs all the help it can with weight as far forward as possible.

 

[MNGSX]

Here is a free mod.

Remove the weather strip from where it meets the back of the hood.

This will leave a small gap across the entire rear of the hood.

 

[greyforestgst]

Originally posted by MNGSX
Here is a free mod.

Remove the weather strip from where it meets the back of the hood.

This will leave a small gap across the entire rear of the hood.

did that like 2 days after i got the car, heh

theres supposed to be one on the front too, but mine never had it.

another thing you can do is put washers on the hinge bolts to jack up the rear of the hood an 1/8" or so, but i took those back off when i did the vents.

im seriously thinking about finding a way to cut the back of both my front fenders ala trans ams:

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[djpast]

Originally posted by greyforestgst


i wasnt worried about corrosion; i was thinking during a heavy rain a mist covering the entire top of the battery, and linking both the terminals together, which would screw things up for a moment until the water vaporized from heat.

moving the battery to the hatch would work good on an awd. fwd needs all the help it can with weight as far forward as possible.

ummm 12v DC power doesnt work that way.... you could have the battery submerged in water and still get your correct voltage and it wouldnt short out. now if it was AC power... thats a different story .... zappppppppp

 

[Turboniam]

Last week, thanks to help from guys at one of the local shops, I was able to get the WRX scoop installed on my car as a heat extractor.

It came out surpisingly well.

Here are some photos.

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[Turboniam]

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As you may or may not be able to tell, the scoop is so large, that it isn't able to be centered on the hood because of the "hump."

However it does look "mean" and I like it, but I'm not into looks, I am about function and man does it work... you can feel the heat coming out of there like crazy!!

For those of you who are not as flexible on the looks department, I would recomend you buy the carbontrix.com heat extractor... its dimensions are 18" wide and would be able to be centered perfectly... where as this WRX scoop is 25" wide and is not able to be centered perfectly WITHOUT being molded into the hump... I just pop riveted my scoop on.

 

[awild]

^ can you post some pics that work?

 

[Turboniam]

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In some of the pics, you guys can see my "ram air" small scoop over the passengerside head light.

YES, it is functional. Thanks to help from my buddy at a shop, we were able to gut the area as best as possible while still retaining the ability of the headlight to pop up and down.

The hole is cut behind the head light on the cover so that air flows into the scoop, behind the headlight and down into the area were the air filter is located.

I'm not sure how much or where you can get that small scoop except that I got it locally from a shop?

Both the WRX Scoop and the small scoop are made of ABS plastic.

 

[awild]

Can anyone else see these pics?

Not showing up for me

 

[awild]

This is what I get when I click your links

"
Unfortunately, Microsoft has added a clever new
"feature" to Internet Explorer. If the text in
an error's message is "too small", specifically
less than 512 bytes, Internet Explorer returns
its own error message. Yes, you can turn that
off, but *surprise* it's pretty tricky to find
buried as a switch called "smart error
messages" That means, of course, that many of
Resin's error messages are censored by default.
And, of course, you'll be shocked to learn that
IIS always returns error messages that are long
enough to make Internet Explorer happy. The
workaround is pretty simple: pad the error
message with a big comment to push it over the
five hundred and twelve byte minimum. Of course,
that's exactly what you're reading right now."

WTF does that mean?

 

[neuralracing]

Dam... I get the same.