Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve Help

[Mike98GS-T]

I just installed my Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve.

One Problem.

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What in the world do I connect this to?

I tried to follow this link, Installing a Greddy Type S BOV in a DSM Eclipse/Talon/Laser, but when it got to "The smaller nipple on the cast aluminum body of the B.O.V may be spliced into the turbo outlet pipe or into the line between the turbo and wastegate actuator. Use the T-connector supplied. This connects to pressure even when the other line has vacuum. This will activate the B.O.V faster by applying pressure under the valve seat."



Never in my life have I heard terms like that before. I have a Turbo XS Manual Boost Controller and it is attached to the nipple on the internal wastegate on the turbo itself.

So where on earth am I supposed to "splice" it to!?!!???!


I was sad... I was hoping it would sound like bov.flv video by jm1080 - Photobucket but you can't hear anything! I don't want a valve that is over the top loud, I just wanted it to make enough sound for it to be noticeable, like in the video I posted. Yes, me saying that "I WANT MY BLOW OFF VALVE TO BE LOUD!" makes me sound like a "ricer"... BUT I DON'T CARE!

Thanks for any help provided in advance!

Also, I tried this

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But when I hooked it up, you couldn't hear a thing.

Then I tried to take one spring out, still couldn't hear anything.

I've checked the diaphragm, and there is no rips or tears anywhere. it's like brand new. I am running recirculated, just like the person is that I gave the link to the video in.

I was following this thread, but I couldn't find the answers I was looking for http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/291611-greddy-type-s-problem-please-read.html.

 

[LandoAWD]

Loosening? ^^

 

[DSM_IKE]

I just installed my Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve.

One Problem.

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What in the world do I connect this to?

I know this thread is almost two years old, but i need to know if that back little nipple can be capped or if i should connect it to something?

 

[RadDsm]

Leave it open, you don't need to connect it to anything.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Why do you care about what sound it makes? As long as your car is functioning correctly I would be happy.

 

[jm1080]

Why do you care about what sound it makes? As long as your car is functioning correctly I would be happy.

Unfortunately most care about sound, I was the same, I always wanted a greddy, but too many problems. I'm happy with my NGR one, still has the nice sound and it does not leak at 35psi, been around 2years already

 

[DSM_IKE]

I don't care about the sound. I was only wondering about the little nipple. And if its fine to leave it open I guess That's what ill do

 

[eclipsalon]

i doubt its the bov u guys are hearing at low/no boost. most likely ya'lls intakes
as for your bov, i would say to take it off the flange and see if u can push down manually. mine does. it even whistles all hardcore and mine is extra ghetto, i dont even have the adjustable screw anymore, just a regular bolt hehe

 

[1slota]

I read this thread last nite after wondering what that port was for, myself. I was having a similar problem with my bov hardly venting even with the adjusting all the way out. My srt-4's bov vented even under vacuum, when the throttle plate closed. The turbines are still spinning thus will create compressor surge,even not under full boost. So yes, you should get a slight "pssh sound or whistle" when not "boosting". I connected the bottom port to a fitting I have on my boost pipe, between the throttle body and compressor. The fitting is on the other side of the diaphram so the pressure build up from the throttle plate closing help the bov vent more responsively and rapidly. Greatly reducing compressor surge in my case. I have yet to really do Full boost pulls at 15psi, but I'm still holding 10 psi fine under moderate conditions. I'm sure you will need to re-adjust your bov, but give running that line a try and lmk if it helps your problem.

 

[Chrispy0530]

I'm actually having a very similar problem to the OP somewhat. All though, I am not fluttering.

NGR Type-S, and have to really get on it to get any kind of sound. While everyone else I know with Type-S's recircu'ed (mine is as well) are 50x louder. Sound isn't too big of an issue for me, but would be nice to be able to hear the whistle without having to go past 3.5k rpm.

 

[jm1080]

I'm actually having a very similar problem to the OP somewhat. All though, I am not fluttering.

NGR Type-S, and have to really get on it to get any kind of sound. While everyone else I know with Type-S's recircu'ed (mine is as well) are 50x louder. Sound isn't too big of an issue for me, but would be nice to be able to hear the whistle without having to go past 3.5k rpm.

Yea it sensitive, I was like you, you need to adjust it to harder. Only make like a quarter turn and keep testing. I went with like a full turn and I missed the sweet spot. Now mine whistles loud and it recirculated. Switching to Speed Density today, so will be vented, expect it to be real loud .

EDIT: Mine is NGR not Greddy, just to clarify.

 

[miguelmcv]

Adjusting the screw is your best choice, as more boost more loader it will get,
so don't expect it to be loader with no boost,
I been running the Greddy ss Type with no problems, I can tell you that at the beginning it was a pain in the a## to adjust it, but once I adjust it, it sound sweet.

 

[kingjust]

I just installed my Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve.

One Problem.

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What in the world do I connect this to?






I know this thread is almost two years old, but i need to know if that back little nipple can be capped or if i should connect it to something?

Ok, i'm surprised no one has really given a good/legit reason why that port is there, so I will try my best to explain my theory. If you have taken apart the type s, it is really a dual chamber setup. The rubber diaphram is the seperator of those chambers. So, the upper port is for vac and boost. The bottom port is for boost only (coming from the compressor housing). Why you might ask, well think about it this way. What happens when you tighten the screw on top... it take more pressure to open up the valve. Under boost the bov valve is under pressure to open but since the upper port is connected to a boost source, it is neutralized. Now under low boost, you get surge. This is where the lower chamber/port comes into play. Since the lower port is for boost only, the upper port/chamber again neutralizes it under high boost. Under low boost, in between shifts, there is vacuum in the upper chamber to open the valve to release pressure and prevent surge. But if the spring is really taught (for high boost applications), it won't open. But the boost only bottom chamber, in between shifts it actually assists the valve opening when in low boost.

Basically, it's there to assist the valve opening when in low boost, with the spring being taught, in between shifts so that surge is reduced. If hope you got what i'm saying... if I had an illustration, I would show you all, but I don't.

Just think about it and how the BOV functions in high and low boost shifting scenarios and you'll get it.

Take care,

KJ

 

[SpawnedX]

I have no idea what half of these retarded posts say so let's sum this up. The bottom nipple is for low boost applications and the upper nipple is for high boost applications. Just cap off the one you aren't using and be done with it. In fact never use the bottom nipple, it's useless.

The whistling you are hearing has nothing to do with the nipple it has to do with the rough surface inside the BOV from obvious outsourcing to China by GReddy. You need to take sand paper and smooth down the rough edges and it will go away.

 

[16g DSM]

I run an RFL and it's RFL!!! crap bov i know so when i pick up my PR FMIC i'll be switching to my Synapse BOV. I ncredible valve and has been pressure tested up to 100 PSI with no leaks.... and no diaphrame!!

 

[SpawnedX]

Synapse, an expensive translation for HKS SSQV.

However I still want one.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Ok, i'm surprised no one has really given a good/legit reason why that port is there, so I will try my best to explain my theory.

Shoulda stopped there. This is the tech section where answers are supposed to be accurate not theorized. And if you live in Stafford, why the crap haven't I met you yet?!?!

 

[1slota]

I have no idea what half of these retarded posts say so let's sum this up.

as for my retarded post, I was going to post a pic of how I ran my vacuum/boost lines to help explain, but I couldn't find my crayons. I'll keep lookin for 'em.

 

[Chrispy0530]

Yea it sensitive, I was like you, you need to adjust it to harder. Only make like a quarter turn and keep testing. I went with like a full turn and I missed the sweet spot. Now mine whistles loud and it recirculated. Switching to Speed Density today, so will be vented, expect it to be real loud .

EDIT: Mine is NGR not Greddy, just to clarify.

Well, I actually just did a boost leak test on my car. Turns out I'm not building any pressure, and all the are just vents straight out of the BoV as I try to pressurize it. Don't think that's normal. When I look at the boost gauge while pressurizing, it doesn't exceed 2-3PSI and falls straight to 0 when I release.

(Also can't exceed 5PSI when driving under load which is a problem I've been having for quite a bit now. Car pretty much feels like a N/A with no power at all.)

16G Evo III
NGR Type - S

 

[kingjust]

Shoulda stopped there. This is the tech section where answers are supposed to be accurate not theorized. And if you live in Stafford, why the crap haven't I met you yet?!?!

I wouldn't say theorized... if you really took apart the blow off valve and thought about it in consideration of the boost/vac sources and which nipple recieves what? I mean I can create a flash presentation to show you but I think you killed it for me!!!! OL

Either way, you have met me, it's just been a long time. I was there with everyone at Jerrys house about 3-4 years ago. Drinking in the garage (which was a dream), then going into the living room and trying to find a place to sleep. I had the burgandy 2gSX and had slave cylinder issues driving home. But i'm sure we have met, your girl had the white 2gS...

I don't known if TT (Team Trinity) is together anymore... tried to register on to the forum but 'adminstrator' never let me in ... No sweat though.

KJ

 

[eclipsechris]

i doubt its the bov u guys are hearing at low/no boost. most likely ya'lls intakes
as for your bov, i would say to take it off the flange and see if u can push down manually. mine does. it even whistles all hardcore and mine is extra ghetto, i dont even have the adjustable screw anymore, just a regular bolt hehe

oo me too =D

 

[iNukeWhales]

Yeah I wouldn't worry about it. I have a 97' talon with the same BOV, the EVO III Big 16G turbo and a 32mm turbosmart waste gate, however I cut a hole into my intake and welded a small pipe lip onto it and just used some clamps and a rubber hose to re-circulate. I don't have that nipple connected into anything and at like 4500-6500 RPMS, when I let off the throttle that thing whistles like CRAZY; shouts through the entire shop. I've heard that by loosing off some stud thing you can regulate when the valve opens and at what RPM, it sounds better when you're daily driving and shifting in around 3000RPMS but you're just taking away boost and creating turbo-lag. Don't be scared to re-circ your BOV, honestly after the hoods down you can't really hear that much of a differenc, plus the S-type BOV is a liiittleee obnoxious- it'd get pretty irritating to hear it through every shift ahaha.