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Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve Help

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Mike98GS-T

10+ Year Contributor
98
0
May 22, 2008
Holland, Michigan
I just installed my Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve.

One Problem.
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What in the world do I connect this to?

I tried to follow this link, Installing a Greddy Type S BOV in a DSM Eclipse/Talon/Laser, but when it got to "The smaller nipple on the cast aluminum body of the B.O.V may be spliced into the turbo outlet pipe or into the line between the turbo and wastegate actuator. Use the T-connector supplied. This connects to pressure even when the other line has vacuum. This will activate the B.O.V faster by applying pressure under the valve seat."



Never in my life have I heard terms like that before. I have a Turbo XS Manual Boost Controller and it is attached to the nipple on the internal wastegate on the turbo itself.

So where on earth am I supposed to "splice" it to!?!!???!


I was sad... I was hoping it would sound like bov.flv video by jm1080 - Photobucket but you can't hear anything! I don't want a valve that is over the top loud, I just wanted it to make enough sound for it to be noticeable, like in the video I posted. Yes, me saying that "I WANT MY BLOW OFF VALVE TO BE LOUD!" makes me sound like a "ricer"... BUT I DON'T CARE! :cool:

Thanks for any help provided in advance!

Also, I tried this
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But when I hooked it up, you couldn't hear a thing.

Then I tried to take one spring out, still couldn't hear anything.

I've checked the diaphragm, and there is no rips or tears anywhere. it's like brand new. I am running recirculated, just like the person is that I gave the link to the video in.

I was following this thread, but I couldn't find the answers I was looking for http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/291611-greddy-type-s-problem-please-read.html.
 

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All you need is to run the normal vacuum line from the intake manifold to the bov, period, it's as simple as that. The lower nipple you do not need to cap or "t" it in to anything else. That's how me, my friend, and another friend of mine have it on our cars and we have no problems with the bov and we still get that little whistle after every shift.
 
All you need is to run the normal vacuum line from the intake manifold to the bov, period, it's as simple as that. The lower nipple you do not need to cap or "t" it in to anything else. That's how my, my friend, and another friend of mine have it on our cars and we have no problems with the bov and we still get that little whistle after every shift.

I get nothing after a shift. If I really want to hear my valve, I have to WoT it to around 7000 rpm's. The way the valve is connected right now, it's only to the intake manifold. The bottom nipple is open to the atmosphere. It is also recirculated. But even recirculated with the stock 2G recirculation tube, there should still be some sound in lower rpm's.
 
Same. I too don't have the smaller lower fitting hooked up, and mine will go off no matter how little throttle I give it. Even out of gear.

That tells me that either mine is broken, or I do not have it hooked up correctly. But like I said in the post before, when I pulled apart the valve to check the diaphragm out it was like brand new. The previous owner had the valve tested and it held 27psi (this was when other things were found to leak in his car, NOT the valve), I only run 20psi in my car.
 
Yes that is true, i have my type s recirculated and i can hear a whistle even when i'm not boosting. I would suspect your bov is set too hard. Soften it up a bit.
 
Yes that is true, i have my type s recirculated and i can hear a whistle even when i'm not boosting. I would suspect your bov is set too hard. Soften it up a bit.

Do you have both springs in your valve? I've seen the single spring mod and I tried it, but it didn't work like I wanted it to. I have both springs in my valve right now.
 
Here are some things I'm seeing. You're associating not hearing it with it not functioning correctly, which is an incorrect assessment. How much you hear it can depend on a lot of things including how the BOV is connected to the recirc tube, your turbo intake pipe, and other noises making or noise canceling devices. These include exhaust, sound deadening in in the engine bay, and inside the car.

I would (temporarily) run it vented and see if you can hear it when you want it to go then. If you can, then you know you have to do the things that make it louder like remove sound deadening material and running hard pipes for your intake and the shortest coupler from bov to intake tube as possible.

If you can't hear it when it's vented, you'll know you've got something wrong with the adjustments.
 
Have you looked at it out of the car? manually depressed the valve? could be stuck or something, but i don't think it's anything to do with your intake/recirculation. mine is recirculated with the stock hose and it is ####ing LOUD! So either your valve is messed up or you are not creating boost...
 
Here are some things I'm seeing. You're associating not hearing it with it not functioning correctly, which is an incorrect assessment. How much you hear it can depend on a lot of things including how the BOV is connected to the recirc tube, your turbo intake pipe, and other noises making or noise canceling devices. These include exhaust, sound deadening in in the engine bay, and inside the car.

I would (temporarily) run it vented and see if you can hear it when you want it to go then. If you can, then you know you have to do the things that make it louder like remove sound deadening material and running hard pipes for your intake and the shortest coupler from bov to intake tube as possible.

If you can't hear it when it's vented, you'll know you've got something wrong with the adjustments.

We took off the 2G Recirculation tube that I was using to see if it "blew off" and it did just not that Type-S sound. I have all hard pipes in my car, all stainless steel. My intake was on the car when I bought it. It looks to me like it's an Ebay intake, not stock, with an "Auto Zone special" air filter. I had to replace the one on there with my new one because the old one was torn to hell.
 
How long is the rubber coupler from your valve to your intake pipe? They say when that is solid it will be louder.

Softer spring will allow the valve to open faster. It's typical that faster opening is louder, more air is rushing out at one time. However, a harder slower opening can make a more unique sound as the air shreiks by the small opening. When dealing with RFL's looser spring gave me the sound of someone opening a gas bottle while a tighter spring gave a puff sound.

You may want to consider trying the lower intake nipple going to anywhere pre-throttle body. It pushes up on the diaphragm helping it open faster.
 
so is it supposed to blow off when your not boosting just building vacuum. mine doesnt blow off till im boosting atleast 2 pounds. wouldnt that be because yours are adjuster softer? wouldnt it make since that the harder you go the more of a crisp whistle till it cnt open up anymore? and the softer you go youd get the reverse affect until you virtually dont hear it blow off at all?
 
and my lower nipple is capped off as well with the other running to ithe intake manifold.
 
Have you looked at it out of the car? manually depressed the valve? could be stuck or something, but i don't think it's anything to do with your intake/recirculation. mine is recirculated with the stock hose and it is ####ing LOUD! So either your valve is messed up or you are not creating boost...

I can manually depress the valve, so it is not sticking. The diaphragm is PERFECT, not a rip or tear. At idle my vacuum is at 15 vac, not 20 vac like I know it's supposed to be at. I already knew I had a boost leak long ago, from my poorly welded J-pipe (previous owners doing). But having a boost leak wouldn't cause the valve to not produce the sound, would it? The piping that I use is the 2G Recirculation tube. Members on this forum have already stated that they use the 2G Recirculation tube as well and still achieve that "signature" Type-S sound at lower RPM's.
 
As for building boost, I've had no problem with that. I can boost to my 20psi and then of course the valve will go off. I just thought that the Type-S was known for "blowing off" at low RPM's and low boost and vacuum, eve with recirculation.
 
Also, when I had my upper intercooler piping redone, I had to buy hose from Advance Auto to go from the intake manifold to the blow off valve. Is it possible that the hose could be bad (leaky, cut etc...) and causing the blow off valve not to "blow off"? I don't think my hose that I got is leaking, just a theory.
 
Its not gonna let a loud whistle when you arent boosting. Mine doesnt whistle unless Im at least boosting a little, more of a whoosh if im in vacuum or lower boost <3psi

Take the line off the bov with the car running and see if the idle goes up. Put your thumb over the opening of the vacuum line then see if the idle goes down.

If it does that then the line is fine.


With it all the way out the valve cant possibly be functioning correctly
 
I just reinstalled my valve onto my car. I took the adjustable screw out, put some thread tape on it, put it back in and only turned it twice. So it's really soft as of now.
 
I just went out for a drive. Even with the screw really soft, it sounds like compressor surge or fluttering. Then after that happens there is a almost silent whistle.
 
How much noise it's going to make is a function of the RPM's (flow) and boost (pressure). If you are light on the throttle in low RPM's, don't expect it to make any noise at all. Mine doesn't really either (I also have mine hooked up exactly like yours). I can get mine to make some noise at low RPM's if I was at WOT and quickly release the throttle. In that scenario, the valve will blow off during the moment when the pressure difference in the intake manifold is less than the pressure in your upper intercooler piping. It's as simple as that. You can also make the BOV make noise with only vacuum at higher RPM's if you were just holding a gear out longer while you were light on the throttle. That is because you are flowing a lot of air through the piping even with low boost, so when you suddenly close the throttle plate, you are creating a buildup of pressure before the throttle which is enough to make it blow off as well. If you're boosting high at high RPM's, that is when you are going to make the most noise.

Also dude, having the bigger turbo than the stock is only going to make it harder to make noise at low RPM's because there is just not enough boost being generated. That's how those guys with their SRT-4's and little turbos can cruise around all day and make their BOV's go off with every shift no matter how they're driving.
 
if your not boostin up to atleast 5-6 lbs its wont blow off. Ive tried to boost low and all i got was the sputter sound. so i wanted to see at ### psi it would sound right it was 5-6 when it blew off right.
 
ya same here and i havnt really heard any blow off valves that will blow off at minimal boost like 2psi or in the vacuum stages except for the rfl. which is rfl
 
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