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Goodies from FFWD

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69_luv

15+ Year Contributor
522
9
Nov 3, 2003
Jacksonville, Florida
So I just wanted to show you guys my new parts.

So here is what I purchased:
7cm TDO5 Hotside ported/upgraded flapper--and coated in CGB-1000
Stock O2 Housing ported to the max--coated in CGB-1000
FP Race Manifold--coated in CGB-1000
SS Manifold studs (BALLER!!)
Copper gasket package from head to downpipe
ARP Manifold to turbo bolts for FP Manifolds (2 long and 2 short)
ARP O2 Housing bolts
EGR blank off plate
And some Magnecore wires that were on their "flea bay" page

The coating looks amazing in person, all the parts match and I can't wait to get them on my car! I wasn't able to get them on my car today because VRSF hasn't shipped my FMIC yet and I don't have a L-pipe to go from my 16g to the stock SMIC. Let me know what you guys think!
 

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Looks nice, but word of advice from experience. Throw away those arp turbo bolts. They will seize and they will break off in the turbo, guaranteed. Two stockers and two evo bolts with the correct washers are the ticket.
 
Looks nice, but word of advice from experience. Throw away those arp turbo bolts. They will seize and they will break off in the turbo, guaranteed. Two stockers and two evo bolts with the correct washers are the ticket.

There are two different styles of ARP turbo bolts. These are the black oxide ones, I've heard of the other ones, which are stainless steel, seizing and snapping though. I've had these black oxide ones on my turbo for over a year now and no problems. I pulled the turbo a month or two ago and they came out and went back in with no problems. Make sure you use a copper anti-seize paste and torque them properly though. They still won't last for ever, but neither will the OEM bolts.
 
There are two different styles of ARP turbo bolts. These are the black oxide ones, Make sure you use a copper anti-seize paste and torque them properly though.

Just from what I talked with Darren at FFWD I think these ARP's are the way to go, and yes there is copper anti-seize on them. A small dab on both the male and female side. TQ'd to spec and ready to go on the car. If it wasn't for VRSF and the month long wait on a FMIC or me not having a L-pipe these parts would have been on the car today.

From personal experience I have never ever had a problem with ARP if installed properly. Anti-seize, and a torque wrench not the torque elbow that clicks..

I will post pics of installed on the car soon.
 
Coating looks great. Will be interested on what you think of the copper exhaust mani gasket. Maybe just me, but I didn't have any luck with mine. Understand its thick copper & it will crush but it seemed like I was always re-torquing the mani nuts. Ended up losing a couple nuts over the 3 summers I ran it. Also leaked if a nut started to losen off. Ran the stock MLS 2 & 4 layer before & never had an issue, so I'm going back to a 4 layer.
 
I'm very glad to see that you started a thread about this! I have been looking into having them do the coating when I get my new turbo, manifold and o2 housing. Keep us posted on how its working out for you and I do think it looks great also!!
 
The coating still looks exactly like the day I opened the box, no color change except in the copper gasket that is visible around the edges of the manifold. I have about 1500 miles or so sense install. Temps in Jax in the past two months have gone from the low 50's or so and today is right near the 100's. I don't have an EGT but I have had some pretty "hot" runs and still no changes. I will snap some pictures and post.
 
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Coating looks great. Will be interested on what you think of the copper exhaust mani gasket. Maybe just me, but I didn't have any luck with mine. Understand its thick copper & it will crush but it seemed like I was always re-torquing the mani nuts. Ended up losing a couple nuts over the 3 summers I ran it. Also leaked if a nut started to losen off. Ran the stock MLS 2 & 4 layer before & never had an issue, so I'm going back to a 4 layer.

Neither have I. They always melt and blow out. Mitsu MLS gaskets FTW.

Also OEM turbo bolts ftw.
 
Neither have I. They always melt and blow out. Mitsu MLS gaskets FTW.

Also OEM turbo bolts ftw.

If this happens to one of Darren's copper gaskets from FFWD I wouldn't believe you. I have had copper gaskets before but the ones from FFWD are like 100x thicker. The "embossed" I think thats the right word/spelling where the gasket is raised is like nothing I have ever seen on a gasket. I am not having any problems with blowing out, or melting, I only stated that they are the only thing out of the entire package that has changed color, but in no-way has that effected performance.

As always its not true until there is pictures, so I have attached. I just returned from a 3rd and 4th gear pull, water temp is just over 210, outside ambient is 101 plus some riduculous humidity.... underhood temps are hot but considering what I just did its not as bad as when I ran the DNP tubular style header...

BTW those are the SS manifold studs you see and they are amazing...
 

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I would definitely advise against using SS under tensile stress in a high heat environment. The coefficient of expansion of stainless is such that they will stretch and eventually vibrate loose the bolts holding your parts together, it also has a fairly low yield strength in comparison to the steels that are supposed to be used in that application. Industrial bolts where high heat is seen are NEVER stainless for this reason. Case hardened steel is the only material that should be used in that application. No, they're not pretty, but they will last.

I do, however, like the spark plug well cover. Where did you acquire that?
 
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Yes the spark plug cover is the eBay one, and I couldn't believe when I got it how thick (and heavy) but it holds a polish really well and matches my shaved and polished theme. I think I am most proud of my polished thermostat housing though...

On the comment about the SS studs I will make some inquires about that but in my previous experience I have never had any problems at all.... If you ever talk or have done business with FFWD they are pretty strict about only having/selling the best products, I would find it hard to believe that they are selling something (that costs $100) that isnt quality. You make a compelling argument and I want to research it further, thanks for the advice!

I have taken my manifold and turbo off 2x so far sense first installing and the bolts have been a breeze to loosen and remove. I have torqued and used anti-seize each time. I also de-burred with tap/die each time in accordance with instructions.

My next eye soar to get rid of is that stupid coolant reservoir!
 
Yes the spark plug cover is the eBay one, and I couldn't believe when I got it how thick (and heavy) but it holds a polish really well and matches my shaved and polished theme. I think I am most proud of my polished thermostat housing though...

On the comment about the SS studs I will make some inquires about that but in my previous experience I have never had any problems at all.... If you ever talk or have done business with FFWD they are pretty strict about only having/selling the best products, I would find it hard to believe that they are selling something (that costs $100) that isnt quality. You make a compelling argument and I want to research it further, thanks for the advice!

I have taken my manifold and turbo off 2x so far sense first installing and the bolts have been a breeze to loosen and remove. I have torqued and used anti-seize each time. I also de-burred with tap/die each time in accordance with instructions.

My next eye soar to get rid of is that stupid coolant reservoir!

It's not so much an argument as a fact. They could be of infinite quality SS 304, they will still have the same material properties...

They sell them for the "bling factor" kids that don't understand/know that SS in tension and heat don't mix. Stainless is the most ductile type of steel out there. You sacrifice strength for some added oxidation protection. The thing is, they will eventually oxidize also.
 
They sell them for the "bling factor" kids that don't understand/know that SS in tension and heat don't mix.

Thanks, but I am not a kid and they are not on there for just their bling factor. Its funny how you see SS in things like DNP manifolds, and more expensive exhaust systems. I appreciate your input.
 
Thanks, but I am not a kid and they are not on there for just their bling factor. Its funny how you see SS in things like DNP manifolds, and more expensive exhaust systems. I appreciate your input.

You aren't listening to me. TENSION is the key factor here. SS tubing, when braced, doesn't hold much stress internally. Still it's funny how you always see SS tubular manifolds cracking when they don't have any added support, isn't it?

I never said you were a child, but people who buy materials for incorrect applications (bling factor in this case) w/o understanding how their properties come into play, are immature in logic, not necessarily age.
 
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