The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Good reliable engine...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Liger

15+ Year Contributor
121
1
Mar 14, 2004
Auburn, California
Well, i've got 155, 145, 160, 165 compression on my motor so i figure i am going to start building a motor before this one dies. It has held this compression for almost a full year now so i dunno what the deal is.
What i would like to know is what is the best option. I am thinking of a 2.3l stroker. Will the 2.3l 7 bolt have the same chance of walking as my current 7bolt? I want to avoid doing a 6 bolt swap due to lack of funds. I am wanting to just build a shortblock and put my stock 7bolt head on the engine. I am looking at spending around 2500 bucks. I should be able to do the machining myself at my college in my class. I am looking to have an engine that can take 650 horsepower reliably without a chance of walking. Thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]
 
I believe the service limit is the 120 range so you are fine. However its not a bad idea to get a head start. I would go the 6 bolt route for peace of mind.
 
Will the 7 bolt 2.3l stroker have the same potential of walking as compared to the 2.0l 7 bolt engine? Thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]
 
Actually brandon, the whole crankwalk theory thing has remained pretty much an unsolved mystery. the more you read/research about it the more you will see that there is no real solution to why or when the phenomena occurs. Popular choice is that the throwout bearing fails under huge pressure like that of heavy clutches. Other theories have to do with anything from crank bearings, oil passages, and the cranks themeselves. It all comes down to whether or not you feel comfortable with the engine. A lot of cars that are claimed sufferers of crankwalk aren't and are probably spun bearings. But the problem is still there. If you are building the engine yourself, then you can feel only as confident that it is built properly as you are confident in your capabilities as an engine builder. Your engine should be fine for now. I would wait. If you want to build a stroker, do it in a not so expensive way as to avoid losing money if it walks. Then if it does, whatever, it didn't cost you too much anyway. Good luck with your choice.
 
Yeah, i see what you are saying. I do believe that most built engine failures are due to how they were built. Statistically speaking a 7bolt has a much higher percentage of walking vs a 6 bolt. I just dont want to spend the extra money to convert to a 6 bolt when i can possibly run a reliable 7 bolt. what i would really like to do is run a very potent yet reliable 7 bolt. Show that with a good build and proper prep and setup, you can run an engine reliably. I just get alittle concerned when i am going to be putting around 600+ horsepower through the engine.
On another note, what do you think the condition is of my engine? Is it good enough to drive normally with the occasional full boost once a week or so? I dont do hard launches with it at all since i have a stock clutch and around 320 horsepower so it likes to slips :p Everything is done from a roll or on the freeway, or the best, windy roads :cool: -Brandon [VFRacing]
 
Liger said:
Will the 7 bolt 2.3l stroker have the same potential of walking as compared to the 2.0l 7 bolt engine? Thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]
shouldnt blow a thrust if it is built by us.
 
You will build a 2.3l 7 bolt stroker with your larger thrust bearing? And what is the cost on a build that will support 600+ on pump gas. Thanks, Brandon [VFRacing]
 
On a side note, do you think my current engine will be fine with normal driving and occasionally boosting a few times a week? Brandon [VFRacing]
 
Liger said:
any advice?
I am not giving you advice! BUT.... if I had those numbers and they held steady for a year I would still sleep well if I boosted once in a while. Yes, she is on the down hill but then again Farah Faucett still doesn't look that bad :p. Even so I would get an engine ready in the wings for just in case.
MB

edit: Yeah, I know, who is Farah Faucett?
 
well it's looking more and more like i will be doing a 2.4l 7 bolt swap into my car. I'm gonna build the internals obviously, put my stock 2 head on until i can get myself a built one. I am now just researching costs and what the best parts will be for the build.

Update on my engine as of today is i ran antilag a few times to see how it all worked out and how well it spools the turbo at a stop. I had it on with 90% added fuel at 3950 rpms with 10 degrees of timing advance. Spooled real well, no flames though. This will obviously put a lot of carbon in the cylinders i would expect. So i ran the car nice and good, some hard spooling on windy roads and what not. Came back and did a compression test, disconnected injectors, cranked for 10 seconds with the throttle wide open, compression is as follows...180-160-190-180 I am thinking it's still got a lot of carbon in there but that doesn't make sense since i ran the car pretty good to clear it all out....would doing a cylinder cleaning help to even everything out to say, 170 on all 4? Thanks Brandon [VFRacing]
 
bullettdsm said:
I am not giving you advice! BUT.... if I had those numbers and they held steady for a year I would still sleep well if I boosted once in a while. Yes, she is on the down hill but then again Farah Faucett still doesn't look that bad :p. Even so I would get an engine ready in the wings for just in case.
MB

edit: Yeah, I know, who is Farah Faucett?


She's younger then me and I haven't even started climbing........ WTF
 
First off you will never reach 600 HP on pump gas from DSM so put that goal in the "not gonna happen" bin.

I would not build a 7 bolt just for the off chance that all the money and work could take a shit at anytime. There are some that say they have fixed it, but non have been sucesfull yet in doing it. If you want to take chances with about 3K then go to Vegas. A 6bolt swap would cost maybe a 100.00 more than just swapping 7bolts. Obviously you will need the spare motor, but that was in your plan already, so all you would need would be the neat RRE harness and a bit of time to make it all work, so I see no need to even consider a 7bolt.
 
Sounds good, i have been thinking of just getting the 6 bolt swap overwith anyways. Better now than later. I think i'll just put a decently built 2.0l 6 bolt in there, along with my recently acquired PTE60-1 with the stage 2 wheel. I think she'll do fine like that with some 720cc injectors since i have all the rest. I'm thinking 2500 or so for a decently built 2 liter?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top