Good camshaft, crankshaft, and compression choice?

[95 Flush]

So im am going to be building a turbo 6 bold 4G63, and i have been sort of looking into what camshaft i would get, also what size crankshaft, and what compression would be good for street racing. i am somewhat new to the ideas of it, definately new to it in dsm's. im wondering what would give me a good overlap duration and what kind of crank to go with what compression. Any ideas? my engine rebuild teacher was telling me that with wider bore pistons, and higher compression with good over lap makes good high end power, and without haveting to bolt on a huge turbo to keep the air sucked in around over all compression to 25:1. hopefully thats what he said, cant quite rememer.

 

[bryzenga]

For a street car, the stock crank should be fine. In fact, basically stock setup on the bottom end should be good for a street car. You could go with 272 cams made by HKS or FP, but you arent going to gain much with a stock turbo. It all depends really what your horsepower goals are and, as always, how much money you have. Typical combinations are a block that is .20 over, Eagle rods, wiseco/manley/mahle pistons (8.5:1 or 8.3:1 compression), stock crank or an Eagle crank, HKS 272 cams and holset HX-35 turbo.

 

[1990AWD]

What are your goals?

Anything under 400HP, the stock bottom end will do just fine and the typical 264/272 cam is a favourite amoung the 16g guys for the street.

 

[95 Flush]

Thank you. i do plan on doing a time worthy rebuild tho, because i will slowly rebuild it researching it before i do something i regret. i do plan on getting 272 cams or i thought of a 264/272 combo. i do plan on upgrading the turbo to atleast a garret gt 35. would you sugget a bore to 2.4L?. it will be a street car, but i do plan on making it worth my while, my goal is to build a firm engine with good performance so it can withstand some punishment. my goal is probably around 500 - 600 hp to start with.

 

[Aproductions]

Well If you go with a 35r, I would say 272 or 280 cams (kelford if you have the cash but hks and delta etc are good). You could do a stroker build but if you wanna rev to the moon most tend to stay with the 2.0 (.020) over.

If I was you I would do a 6 bolt with 8.3-8.5 comp (manley or wiseco or any other forged piston) and maybe some meth or something. Also get thicker rods like manley h or I beams or eagle etc.

 

[95 Flush]

ok. ya i'm gonna try and get wiesco pistons, and forged h beam rods, as well as supertech valves, crawford titanium renforced springs, hks cams, arp head studs, weapon r intake manifold, not sure about headers yet, maybe megan racing, hks ajustable cam gears. thats all that i could rembember for what my plan is so far, is any of those things a bad choice for my rebuild of the block and cylander head?

 

[Aproductions]

get a fp cast manifold and call it a day, also get a better smim like magnus or jmf

 

[Boostinsideways]

You don't bore a 2.0 block out to a 2.4. You start with a 2.4 block.

Common options are : 2.0 (std 4g63 block)
2.1/2.2 (De-stroked 2.4 block, higher redline, more displacement)
2.3 (2.0 block w/ 2.4 or aftermarket crank)
2.4 (4g64 block, with 4g63 head, timing gears have to be remarked, or use 94 galant with DOHC 2.4 gears, use galant t-belt)

Also, 25:1 compression isn't an internal combustion engine, its a bomb.

 

[bryzenga]

Those are not bad options for a build. Do not forget though, one of the most important things to go along with theses mods are tuning options. ECMLink offers a very versatile program. If you have the money though, AEM also makes a stand alone system. All depends on what your preferences are.
Also, with exhaust manifolds, you have to make a choice. Cast ones tend to have a very slight spool time loss for the turbo compared to the tubulars... they are maintenance free most of the time. The tubular headers slightly increase spool time, but it is not uncommon to develop cracks that will need to be repaired.

 

[95 Flush]

Thanks for the input. ya i apologize for some things being incorrect, i am fairly new to quite a few things, but i have engine rebuild books and a specific rebuild book for the 4G63. so what is the advantages to tubular headers then? like equal length tubes and stuff.

 

[knochgoon24]

If you're serious about building a good setup, read Maximum Boost by Corky Bell.

Here's a link to a pdf download, but I'd suggest also buying the book. It's worth it.
http://rapidshare.com/files/361808538/Maximum_Boost-Corky_Bell.rar

 

[MikeyTsi]

Thanks for the input. ya i apologize for some things being incorrect, i am fairly new to quite a few things, but i have engine rebuild books and a specific rebuild book for the 4G63. so what is the advantages to tubular headers then? like equal length tubes and stuff.

Equal length headers line up the exhaust pulses from the engine to make it a bit more efficient.

Hey, here's an article snippet:

With equal length headers, as each exhaust valve in the head of the engine is opened and exhaust gas is forced out, it passes down one of the header pipes and through to the down pipe, where the exhaust gas velocity causes a slight vacuum in another header pipe. This has an effect of scavenging exhaust gas from the cylinder, which is beneficial for performance. In performance engines, which have cam overlap, the scavenging effect will pull air through from the intake manifold as well, further increasing performance.

The utility of this in a turbocharged motor is probably pretty minor, I'd say only really useful when you're chasing that last .10 going down the strip.

 

[95 Flush]

or the good looks. well thanks guys, i'll continue to look into it further.