Getting a car started from 3 years

[clbailey]

Backhistory- Names Chris, im in the Air Force and have a 75 Camaro, 02 Camaro , 01 Cobra, 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Im fairly knoweldgeable about cars and mechanics. Always loved DSM's.

I acquired a 97 GSX automatic thats been sitting for 3 years (military) the guy doesnt really know whats wrong with it, but said that he had just got the timing belt replaced then it started blowing smoke out the exhaust. He didnt specifiy how long after the fix that it did it. Any ideas?

He also had a Viper alarm systems and boost controller and a turbo timer that he wants back. Im sure pulling this and getting everything back together will be a pain. What all would be involved..?

I want to check the compression, change all the fluids, im sure the gas is bad, not sure what to do about that? Maybe unhook the fuel from the motor and cycle the fuel pump and put new gas in it. Also throw some seafoam in it.

What spec fluids should I use for everything? What brake, power steering,coolant, engine oil, tranny fluid, diff fluid.

Also what plugs are reccomended?

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[1983gsp]

The first stop should be VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions

 

[Zefal151]

I run a NGK BR6ES, which is off the shelf i believe, and a BR7ES is the usual recommended to get it a little colder if need be, but special order... For fairly stock i would stick with the BR6ES
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NGKB/BR6ES.oap?keyword=br6es

 

[DSM1G90]

First off: car sitting for 3yrs = BASIC PREVENT MAINTENANCE!! I know you've already mentioned some of this, but I wanna mention for a review as well and add a few more things:

Change oil, oil filter, fuel filter, flush gas tank out and put in new fuel (old fuel has degraded down to a varnish level), flush cooling system out and change antifreeze with 50/50 mix, and see how the tires are if any flat spots and if so, new set of tires, and change tranny fluid being an auto.

..and this is just for starters...before doing the stuff above mentioned.

-DSM

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

Yes I second what DSM1G90 said.

The fuel is indeed gone. You can activate the fuel pump with a bare connection to the pump it's self. Under the back seat, passenger side.

Pump it from the FPR like I did in this video:

Pumping E85 out. 1992 Eagle Talon - YouTube

But I had ECMLink on my side.

Second I would pull the plugs. They may be fine as they are. But definitely inspect them. Compare them to a chart usually found in a service manual.

Wires should be OK to keep.

Change oil, coolant, all filters and tranny fluid.

Test the battery, Check for dry rot in tires.

If a boost controller was installed then there may be no factory boost control.
Ask him if he can assist you in the removal of those parts. So that you have no issues down the road.

Turbo timers usually come with a harness between the steering column key switch and the main harness.

The alarm is another issue all together. It's going to be daunting. Get yourself a service manual with wiring diagrams, you may need it.

Simplest way to look at it is:

Alarms for the most part only tap into whats there. Except for starter disabling. In that case. Connect the corresponding wires together by color and gauge.

You should be OK if you take your time. Most of all have fun and relax.

 

[quiksilver20004]

After it sitting for 3 years you need to lubricate the cylinders before you turn the motor over. I would drop some oil down the plug holes and the rotate the motor over by hand a couple times. If the motor was not fogged before it was shut down then corrosion and rust can build up in the cylinders and you will wipe the rings out in a heart beat. you will also either want to take a drill and prime the oil system or pull the CAS connector so fuel wont flow then sit and let the starter turn the motor over till you start to build some oil pressure. A dry start is horrible for a motor and after that long there is probably no lubrication left between the moving parts in the motor.

 

[UCF201101]

One quick question, what kind of smoke is coming out the exhaust?

 

[TSiAWDRatlemstr]

I would pre-lube the cylinders, check all of the fluids and fire it up. Let it warm up and see what you have. Like you said, I would change all of the fluids and give it a drive. As for the gas, it is probably bad, but it might be okay to run it out. You could take off the fitting at the fuel rail and make sure that there is no rust coming out. Definitely pick up a service manual or at least a Chiltons. General fluids are 10w30 engine oil, 75w90 or 80w90 for the diff, transmission, transfer case, etc.

 

[clbailey]

I got the car running, but the smoke show it gave was awesome, along with the turbo has about 1.5 inches of up and down play, the intercooler is full of compressor fins.

Went to put a replacement turbo in and while leaning on the radiator I broke the upper elbow at the neck, hose wont stay on it for shit. Gota order a new one.

Broke a manifold stud off the head for the exhaust. Gota easy out that one.

Im pretty sure the voltage regulator is gone, or the alternator is shot.

One thing leads to 10 more.

I had to replace the fuel pump, and the sending unit is bad.

The dimmer switch needs to be replaced, but hey cant complain the car was free, other than a new paintjob and some tlc the cars in great shape, just had to de- rice it a bit.

 

[rlacasse1]

Why do you say the alternator is shot? Check the alternator fuse. It may just be corroded or burnt up.

 

[clbailey]

Voltage drop with anything, it the brakes-voltage drop, windows-voltage drop, blinkers-voltage drop.. I mean anything that draws current, voltage drop.

 

[DSM1G90]

I mean anything that draws current, voltage drop.

..which is normal.

Ever seen a DC voltmeter stay at a level when any good amount of current is pulled?

You draw current, so does voltage. Why you have the alternator- it's to keep the battery "topped off" since the battery is actually supplying the current to the electrics of the vehicle.

Then, if your voltage does drop on current draw with the motor running, then we can point to the alternator not supplying the required 13.8VDC to keep the battery "topped off", or the battery cannot supply the required current on a continual basis and the alternator is working double time to supply the charge current to the battery and running the system - which eventually will kill the alternator.

 

[MikeyTsi]

For the radiator, I strongly suggest performance radiator. Inexpensive replacements, and they use metal end tanks.

 

[clbailey]

What about the auto issue? I havent found any that are specific. All aftermarket radiators are for "manuals" only. Id rather keep the stock setup. I dont mind running an external cooler.