2G Garrett Big T28 Ports/ Advice

[Techn0Nut1996]

Hello all,
I received this turbo from my wedding party as a gift that they all went in on, needless to say I was shocked and ecstatic since my OEM T25 is pretty much dead. From all the research that I have done it looks like the installation will be fairly straight forward but since I am new to having a turbo vehicle I wanted to ask some questions about what ports are on the turbo instead of just plugging and playing. I would like to actually understand what everything is than just rushing into the project. The pictures I have attached are labeled with what I'd like to know more about.
On top of that, since I have never replaced a turbo before what else (if anything) do I need to make this work? I know I will need gaskets, but what about an install kit? I cannot find anything on it so I assumed that this will be direct bolt on but would still like to double check with you guys. Is there a site your recommend buying gaskets from?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/46062682101/in/dateposted-public/
#1 Oil?
#2 Coolant?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/31123899627/in/dateposted-public/
#3 plugged off on the turbo in my car now(OEM T25), not sure what this port is for?
#4 Oil?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/31123900567/in/dateposted-public/
#5 ?
#6 ?
#7 Oil line holder?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/31123898767/in/dateposted-public/
#8 Line holder?
#9 Line holder?
Thanks guys!

 

[JusMX141]

The stock TB2566 and the upgrade TB2578 are identical so installation should be pretty straight-forward as you said. A new oil drain gasket and four new 14mm copper washers for the coolant lines if you plan on running coolant to it are the only real consumables if you plan to re-use the stainless gaskets for the turbine housing inlet and o2 flange. This is like a "stage 0" level of difficulty for installing a turbocharger upgrade on a 2G.

 

[Techn0Nut1996]

That is what I thought, and I am excited! Any input for the port descriptions/ am I correct with the ones I listed?

 

[Esquire the Bold]

I pulled my T25 about two weeks ago and I still have coolant lines attached, so I'll try to help you out:

1. Oil drain
2. Coolant line
3. Based on how you have the unit rotated in the pic, this looks like the other coolant line
4. Oil feed
6. You'll have to remove the fitting from the T25 but this is the vacuum source
5 and 7 are for the coolant line brackets
I don't think 8 and 9 are used

Hope this helps..I used the service manual as a reference but it wasn't difficult

 

[Techn0Nut1996]

Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for!

 

[JusMX141]

That is what I thought, and I am excited! Any input for the port descriptions/ am I correct with the ones I listed?

1- Oil drain
2- Coolant return
3- Coolant feed
4- Oil feed
5- Coolant line tab
6- Boost source
7- Coolant line tab
8 & 9- Lower heat shield mounts

The parts that fit each hole only go on one way so it's pretty difficult to screw up.

 

[Th3ory]

Cool gift.

I used to run a T28, its a direct bolt on for a 2g, not to difficult. Just take your time and dont rush. Its a fun bolt on turbo, whats your plan with it as far as boost? Do you have any other modifcations to your car?

 

[Techn0Nut1996]

Far as I know (Still trying to determine what the previous owner told me is true or BS) Injen intake, VR Speed fmic, and KGK plugs and wires, all of which came with the car when I bought it. As for boost I don't plan on pushing the car (for now) until I can do more research into supporting mods like injectors, DSMLink, etc. Mainly I want to get it running but also want to plan for the future. My goal for the car would be 300-350 whp eventually, but for now I just want to get it running again .

 

[Th3ory]

Far as I know (Still trying to determine what the previous owner told me is true or BS) Injen intake, VR Speed fmic, and KGK plugs and wires, all of which came with the car when I bought it. As for boost I don't plan on pushing the car (for now) until I can do more research into supporting mods like injectors, DSMLink, etc. Mainly I want to get it running but also want to plan for the future. My goal for the car would be 300-350 whp eventually, but for now I just want to get it running again .

Good, you should be ok if you dont touch the boost level. Hopefully its still regulated by the stock boost solenoid. A BigT28 does flow more air, so you will need some different injectors in the future, I ran evo 560 I picked up for 100bucks, and I rewired the stock fuel pump.

Anyways, get everything in good working order first. And have both your timing belt and balance shaft belt replaced! Very important, I actully blew a very very old balance shaft belt on 23psi on a T28. However sounds like you going in the right direction with getting the car running good and not just uping the boost.

 

[Techn0Nut1996]

I have seen a lot of posts about rewiring the fuel pump but I am curious as to what that actually does to benefit the car?

 

[llxkevinxll]

I have seen a lot of posts about rewiring the fuel pump but I am curious as to what that actually does to benefit the car?

General principle, not dsm specific:

The factory fuel pump wiring will include many components between the actual fuel pump and the battery (+) terminal. These inclide relays, fuses, connectors, etc and may condition the voltage the fuel pump sees to be a constant 12v instead of 14.Xv the battery (+) terminal is at while the vehicle is running. Rewiring the fuel pump removes most of these "voltage hurdles" as each component between the fuel pump and battery has an associated voltage drop. A fuel pump is an electric motor with fixed resistance. Using Ohm's law we know V=I*R. We can't control current draw, the load dictates that, and we can't change the pump motors resistance (within reason) so we have to adjust the voltage. If we can supply the pump with 14v instead of 12v and the resistance is unchanged, the current must come up, in accordance to Ohm's law. More current means more energy provided to the motor windings which in turn means higher rpm and/or more pumping force. This allows the fuel pump to provide more fuel to the rail without changing the pump itself.

Long winded but hopefully that makes sense.

 

[Techn0Nut1996]

That makes perfect sense, thank you for the write up on that.