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Big T28 dyno sheets

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siceclipse said:
hey X, what #'s are you hitting without the NO2?
I honestly have never dynoed mine yet bro, that's why I was thinking RedRex02's #'s sound very good to me for 18psi. That's not to say that I could put those kinds of numbers down, but his numbers are very good compared to others that I have seen in the past. I would hope I'm atleast putting down close to 300whp without nitrous, since I'm around 2800ft in elevation here where I live. I need to get off my lazy but and dyno mine. I have trapped at 87mph in the 1/8 without nitrous though. :)
 
Kinda makes n2o not seem too bad of a thought. I was planning on doing cams but might drop that idea for a different one. If your planning on doing the turbo install and havn't bought the AFC I would strongly recommend checking out DSMLink instead. Much better tuning tool.
 
azonic said:
Kinda makes n2o not seem too bad of a thought. I was planning on doing cams but might drop that idea for a different one. If your planning on doing the turbo install and havn't bought the AFC I would strongly recommend checking out DSMLink instead. Much better tuning tool.
Yeah I just went with nitrous because I wanted a little more topend, plus the fact that I had never had any experience with nitrous before, so I wanted to try it out, and now I'm hooked on it. But... I actually don't even use it unless I run across something that I think that will give me a good run. :)
 
SilverJester said:
12.4 wow...I wanna know how you managed that. My best so far was a 13.0 @ 106mph. My mods are: ported bigt28, dsmlink, fp1 cams, ported 02 housing, 3" n1 exhuast (no cat), 550cc, FMIC.
My buddy hit a 104 with his T28 @ 17#'s but with stock O2, stock smic, stock cams and stock injectors.
The more and more I read these dyno and 1/4 threads, these cars are all over the wall. Everyone has such different numbers and times while having similar mods.
 
One of my friends just dynoed with their t28 on a 2g gst. They were running dejon ic piping, hks bov, stock sidemount, stock cams, apexi downpipe, test pipe, and apexi n1 catback, greddy profec b spec 2, stock injectors, and walbro 255 fuel pump, and thats about it. It put down 252whp on the dyno and 240tq on 93 octane and 17psi.
 
SilverJester said:
12.4 wow...I wanna know how you managed that. My best so far was a 13.0 @ 106mph. My mods are: ported bigt28, dsmlink, fp1 cams, ported 02 housing, 3" n1 exhuast (no cat), 550cc, FMIC.

I went 13.0 @101 on pump 92 octane. Are you running fwd or awd? The mph would make me guess fwd with the ET. I am still using stock cams,l ported T28, Dsmlink, 550's + fuel pump, ported O2, 3" exh, ported exh manifold, Hahn fmic with some custom piping. Other than that, just some random suspension stuff, brakes, and bushings.

My guess is alot of tuning will help people out. I've been playing around with Dsmlink to get what I'm thinking is a good setup. I've never had my car on the dyno, just at the track and some street tuning. Just have to be able to tweak your setup to make it work right. I'm guessing the guy with stock inj/pump are probably in need of some upgrades to make it work better. I also did mine on race gas :)
 
azonic said:
I went 13.0 @101 on pump 92 octane. Are you running fwd or awd? The mph would make me guess fwd with the ET. I am still using stock cams,l ported T28, Dsmlink, 550's + fuel pump, ported O2, 3" exh, ported exh manifold, Hahn fmic with some custom piping. Other than that, just some random suspension stuff, brakes, and bushings.

My guess is alot of tuning will help people out. I've been playing around with Dsmlink to get what I'm thinking is a good setup. I've never had my car on the dyno, just at the track and some street tuning. Just have to be able to tweak your setup to make it work right. I'm guessing the guy with stock inj/pump are probably in need of some upgrades to make it work better. I also did mine on race gas :)
I'm AWD, I cut a 1.7 60ft on that run on 93 octane. I did some tuning but my EGT gauge has stopped working so I was tuning based on knock so I didn't want to push it too much. I know I have some more room for tuning but I dunno if I could get it down to 12.4 (on pump gas anyways).

Do you guys think that the the 17psi actuator really helps to hold boost...mine likes to drop off to about 17/18psi?
 
SilverJester said:
I dunno if I could get it down to 12.4 (on pump gas anyways).

Do you guys think that the the 17psi actuator really helps to hold boost...mine likes to drop off to about 17/18psi?

Dump in some race gas and I'm guessing you will easily see a mid 12. You will need to retune obviously to set it up for the race gas. Just turn up the boost and add some timing. You have some really good mph if your going 13.0 at 106. I had a 13.0 at 100 on pump gas.

And I've had good luck with the 17psi actuator. Only downfall would be if you want to run under 17psi on the street.
 
azonic said:
Dump in some race gas and I'm guessing you will easily see a mid 12. You will need to retune obviously to set it up for the race gas. Just turn up the boost and add some timing. You have some really good mph if your going 13.0 at 106. I had a 13.0 at 100 on pump gas.

And I've had good luck with the 17psi actuator. Only downfall would be if you want to run under 17psi on the street.
See I have my AGP wastegate and without a mbc, it only see's about 15-16 psi. This could just mean that it needs to be adjusted. Now with the mbc set at 18-20#'s, it sticks there and stays till redline. Not too sure if that is related to the wastegate or mbc being a good peice. I have seen alot of cars equiped with T28's and 16g's having issues with holding boost. But my own setup, it holds boost just fine.
Looking at my dyno graph, I think the drop of power up top has to do with the size of the turbo. t28's are not known to shine up top, compared to a larger turbo.
Jon
 
azonic said:
Dump in some race gas and I'm guessing you will easily see a mid 12. You will need to retune obviously to set it up for the race gas. Just turn up the boost and add some timing. You have some really good mph if your going 13.0 at 106. I had a 13.0 at 100 on pump gas.

And I've had good luck with the 17psi actuator. Only downfall would be if you want to run under 17psi on the street.
I actually use to believe the same thing about not being able to run lower boost than 17lbs on the FP 17lb actuator, but since I'm running nitrous on my car I had to make darn sure that my boost was set exactly where it needed to be before I sprayed, so it took a few times of adjusting the actuator arm to get it right.

The very first time I adjusted the acuator I had lengthened it to far, and all the boost I could run was about 14psi. I couldn't believe it because I had always thought that you shouldn't be able to run lower than what the spring is rated at, which is 17lbs. My completely stock 03 WRX actually felt just as fast for comparison, but the second time I adjusted it I went to short and I was running about 25psi, which I knew was to much boost for pump gas let alone running nitrous, but it took a third time to get it right and I was finally hitting around 19 to 20psi without nitrous, but when I spray it shoots my boost up to about 22psi and I get about 17 to 18 degrees of timing at the top of 3rd gear according to my logger on pump gas.

Anyways.... I still don't know why I can run lower boost than what the FP wastegate actuator is rated at, because to this day I'm still dumb founded as to why I could, but like I said I use to believe the same thing as you until I had to re-adjust the arm length so many times just to get it right in order to run nitrous safely, but it could be just the way my car is and the elevation that I'm at, which is about 2800ft above sea-level. With the FP 17lb acutator I can hold 20psi all the way to about 6500rpm before mine starts tapering off to about 18psi by redline, which is close enough to redline for me. :)
 
Gen X:

My guess is the reason your seeing the lower boost is due to the wastegate being held open. What happens on the factory actuator is after 14psi or, whatever the spring is set for, the flapper will blow open. Then this happens you lose airflow that would normally get the turbo spinning faster. Thus, the reason for the 17psi acutator, holding the flapper closed until you hit 17psi and then letting off any extra air after that. My guess is that when you were running the 14psi the boost would come on super slow and the car was a complete turd. But, subsequently when you were hitting the 25psi the car felt like it was a rocket ship and the boost would jump super fast from say 5psi to 25psi.

That is what my thought is on that. If I am way off base someone please correct me. But it all makes sence for the most part...
 
azonic said:
Gen X:

My guess is the reason your seeing the lower boost is due to the wastegate being held open. What happens on the factory actuator is after 14psi or, whatever the spring is set for, the flapper will blow open. Then this happens you lose airflow that would normally get the turbo spinning faster. Thus, the reason for the 17psi acutator, holding the flapper closed until you hit 17psi and then letting off any extra air after that. My guess is that when you were running the 14psi the boost would come on super slow and the car was a complete turd. But, subsequently when you were hitting the 25psi the car felt like it was a rocket ship and the boost would jump super fast from say 5psi to 25psi.

That is what my thought is on that. If I am way off base someone please correct me. But it all makes sence for the most part...
Your exactly right azonic about the boost coming on very slow when I was running 14psi. That's probably why my car felt like it was no faster than my stock WRX, so I'm assuming your probably right about that.

Also when I was running 25psi the car was a completely different beast. I just couldn't do it on pump gas though. My timing went to crap, like about 14 degrees at redline, which just couldn't cut it. I wished I could have run that amount boost though, that would have been nice.

I think about 22 to 23psi is about the limit for me on pump gas. I even tried bumping my fuel pressure up a little to try and squeeze a little more out of my 550's just to see what would happen, and all I got was a max of 15 degrees of timing at the top of 3rd gear on that particular run. :)
 
azonic said:
Dump in some race gas and I'm guessing you will easily see a mid 12. You will need to retune obviously to set it up for the race gas. Just turn up the boost and add some timing. You have some really good mph if your going 13.0 at 106. I had a 13.0 at 100 on pump gas.

And I've had good luck with the 17psi actuator. Only downfall would be if you want to run under 17psi on the street.
I'll probably try some race gas next time I go to the track (and of course tune it for race gas). Also I think I am going to try the 17psi actuator see if helps give a little more top end.

I'm just a little confused about the trap times though...I made a 13.0 at 106mph while you did it at only 100mph. I had a 1.7 60ft (and I believe you said that you did as well)....so why the difference, shouldn't I have a lower e/t? Actually I also ran a 13.0 at 104mph, then went back did a little timing advancement in order to run the 106.
 
silver: hard to say why you have an additional 6mph over me. I generally run my car pretty rich to try and avoid blowing it up, so that could be one thing. I also lack the aftermarket cams which I belive you said you have which, could be another reason. When I run race gas I pick up .6 seconds and around 10mph. But, from what I've seen everyones cars a just a little bit different.

Matt: if you go back to the second page I have some of my data from DSMlink posted. But, here are my aifflow numbers again: AirflwoLb: 33.2Lb/min max: 34.1Lb/min
 
matt97gst said:
Can those of you who have dyno #s post your air flow in lbs you're flowing??

azonic said:
Matt: if you go back to the second page I have some of my data from DSMlink posted. But, here are my aifflow numbers again: AirflwoLb: 33.2Lb/min max: 34.1Lb/min

Do you have dyno #s though?
 
Hey all! Well, I've got the FP Big28 w/ 17psi Actuator. I went ahead and cranked the actuator down to try and get my boost up in the upper RPMs... but to no avail. I'm getting 21lbs peak (actuator alone, no boost controller) and it still falls to about 11psi by 6K+.

Also, on my first run after the adjustment, I hit 25.8psi, and then DID hold 21.5ish for a couple thousand RPM. The following run, it dropped to about 22, then next to about 21... Any idea why this would happen?

I wasn't getting knock on the 25-21psi run (cold day, big FMIC) and would have liked to kept it there because I'm getting a barrel of race gas soon...

I don't want to tighten the actuator any more if I'm only going for 17psi in the uppers until I get the gas, but, I STILL can't seem to hold boost up high.

Any Ideas, and my profile is up to date. I'm also getting cams this month, but should that effect my ability to hold the boost.

Thanks in advance.

-jeff
 
Sounds familiar. Even with the 17 psi actuator I get 21 psi in the midrange, then dropping from 21-17 psi at 6000-7000 rpm. If I crank it to 25 psi, then it drops to 21 psi near redline. The turbo CAN hold the boost, but not in a linear way and not in a way that is useful on the street (i.e. 25 psi midrange). Really need a boost controller that can vary boost via rpm.

I had problems holding high boost once I added cams, not a physical limitation but a tuning issue. It did something to the tuning of the engine that just dispised high boost. Also had problems with spark blow out at around 23-24 psi. Just saying cams threw a tricky tuning curve ball into the mix. Seems on my car 22 psi is about the limit the engine likes on my current setup, before the cams 25 psi was absolutely no problem on 104 octane. I've seen 35 lb/min in 3rd gear on a street tune with 21 psi.
 
shit, i dont know what wrong with your cars but mine HOLDS BOOST

I have a ported to shit 1g o2 housing and that helps
but i get 23psi spike settleing to 20 all the way to 7200RPM

I dynod my car at 19psi but i have a huge boost leak at my TB so we richened the shit out of it and ultimately its effecting my #'s

the #'s you see under my name are the ones i made at 19psi on a hot humid day, on a DynoJet.
 
Cams aren't going to help boost drop off but it hardly matters, cause your airflow is gonna go up which is what counts anyway.

My FP28 is a lot different than most guys here. I'm running a 10 bladed turbine wheel setup which is a very early version of the FP28. Most guys have a 9 blade setup that is a lot more free flowing on the exhaust side, helping to prevent boost drop off.
 
I made 237awhp 208awtq on my AGP T28 @ 14psi on the bone stock fuel system with a basic tune from my SAFC II. I was quite impressed with those numbers being Im only running 14psi and Im still on the stock fuel system. Im trapping 98mph in the 1/4 mile. Too bad my 60ft's couldnt be better...stock clutch ftl.
 
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