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Garret .63AR HX40 housing Pic's.

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That manifold may look like the ERL, but the real deal is cast steel. I dont see the advantages of one Chines welded manifold over another.... They all seem to crack eventually :(
 
Well for me, it's money. And right now I need my car running. I'll save for one of those high dollar manifolds later. But that's just me.
 
Is that also the obx o2 housing you have their? Did it bolt right up to your stock location downpipe? If so it looks like a good alternative for people who don't want to custom fab a o2 housing/downpipe.

Yes it's an OBX housing. ($65) my old exhaust does not bolt up. I'll have to make a new downpipe. Although if you had a manifold that faced directly down it may bolt up. I think the slight angle of the turbo flange on this manifold is the problem. Probably 20* off...

Waste of money IMO. I should have just bought a flange for $15 and made my own. I was hoping for the direct bolt-on.

That manifold may look like the ERL, but the real deal is cast steel. I dont see the advantages of one Chines welded manifold over another.... They all seem to crack eventually :(

I'm not claiming this is anywhere near the quality of a cast SS ERL manifold. Just that the placement is similar. I plan to support the turbo to help take some weight off the mani. I may get lucky... may not. Technically if you rigid mounted the turbo to the block with some sort of brace and just ran the manifold to connect the two cracking shouldn't be an issue. Space time and effort all come into play. I've got more time than money.... and a welder.
 
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You got a point on more time than money :)

As far as the DP goes, I used the BEP T3 housing so it was a v-band, but doing a O2 eliminator style is the cats ass. I cut the flange of a Megan DP, got one of those bends from ATP, welded the mess together and it works great. Should be the same idea only different flange with your setup.
 
That manifold may look like the ERL, but the real deal is cast steel. I dont see the advantages of one Chines welded manifold over another.... They all seem to crack eventually :(

Its not a ERL copy for the umptenth time.. the ERL is a copy of the SFP tubular and this OBX is a direct copy of that same SFP manifold..

The ERL on its own is a copy.:rolleyes:
 
South Florida Performance had the ERL's design first, but in tubular instead of cast...and they offered a variety of flanges from DSM bolt-on to T4.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/324744-sfp-turbo-manifold-good.html

The ERL is far superior in strength and also keeps engine bay temps down better than tubular...although for a budget, the OBX manifold doesn't look bad as long as it's more durable than other eBay manifolds. Holsets are generally not very light turbos.
 
Looking good bud! Is this t3 specifically made for hx turbo's? Or bored out to fit?

I was wondering if it is bored out to fit it might not flow well as what the original design intended. I am talking about the openings around the interior of the turbine housing where the gas would come out to spin the wheel. I am not really sure how the exhaust turbine housing are designed.
 
Looking good bud! Is this t3 specifically made for hx turbo's? Or bored out to fit?

I was wondering if it is bored out to fit it might not flow well as what the original design intended. I am talking about the openings around the interior of the turbine housing where the gas would come out to spin the wheel. I am not really sure how the exhaust turbine housing are designed.

It has no machining marks on it. Looks to be cast for this purpose... OR atleast for a turbo with the same or very similar exhaust wheel specs.
 
Am I the only one thinking that more people are interested about the manifold than the turbo setup? Lol.
 
Well as far as the turbo setup goes its kind of pointless.. You're better off going with the BEP .70 It'll spool the same and make more power for the same price.

As for the manifold, at $170 shipped its a nice piece.
 
Well as far as the turbo setup goes its kind of pointless.. You're better off going with the BEP .70 It'll spool the same and make more power for the same price.

As for the manifold, at $170 shipped its a nice piece.


but what if you already have a 2.5" 4 bolt O2 housing, then its not so pointless
 
The thing I would like to see is if this turbine housing will fit with the treadstone cast T3 manifold? My BEP housing hit block with it :(
 
but what if you already have a 2.5" 4 bolt O2 housing, then its not so pointless

At that point you're still choking the turbo. Its pointless because going with a bigger housing is to help it breath. All in all a .55 with the 3" vband will probably be on par with the .63 with the tiny 2.5.

Point is is its not an upgrade and is very much so pointless if your goal is to extract the most out of your build.
 
I did a boost leak check this weekend and decided to do a few conservative pulls. This thing is a lag monster!

Tune is no where near dialed in. I'm sure there is a few hundred RPM of spool time to be gained with timing and leaner AFR's.

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I wonder why it's spooling so slow?
From what I've read, most guys are seeing those spool times on HX52's with 16cm turbine housings.

Not sure really. The BC cams are installed straight up. I was considering reinstalling the factory cams or installing adjustable cam gears. Could be excessive overlap? Grasping at straws here.

I suppose the gate could be leaking slightly. It is vented and very easy to hear when it opens fully. Using a grainger spring loaded ball/seat MBC not a bleeder. Gate literally pops open right around 25psi and is very noticable.

Everything but the comp cover on the HX-40 held tight on the boost leak check to 30psi. I sealed it this weekend. I'll do another compression check this weekend. I was getting around 145-150 right after my break in. Seemed a bit low for 8.5:1 motor. Again, I figured the cams were to blame
 
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I suppose the gate could be leaking slightly. It is vented and very easy to hear when it opens fully. Using a grainger spring loaded ball/seat MBC not a bleeder. Gate literally pops open right around 25psi and is very noticable.
If you have no bleeder hole, the MBC needs to be hooked to the intake manifold so it has some sort of vacuum source. Otherwise, the gate can be left open slightly from the residual pressure trapped in the line when you let off and the ball drops down and prevents the pressurized air from exiting the wastegate chamber and line.
 
If you have no bleeder hole, the MBC needs to be hooked to the intake manifold so it has some sort of vacuum source. Otherwise, the gate can be left open slightly from the residual pressure trapped in the line when you let off and the ball drops down and prevents the pressurized air from exiting the wastegate chamber and line.

I have a .020 bleed hole. Thanks for the tip though!
 
Okay, now that you updated your mod list, mind telling me what wastegate you have? I was trying to be sneaky but it didn't work. Lol.
 
It's gotten better I installed 27" tall tires and dropped the timing down to 10* right when the turbo starts to build boost, then ramped it up to 17*. I'm making 12psi by 4k and 26 (full boost at 5k. This is according to the logger.

Of course this cruising in 3rd gear around 2500 and going WOT. I think most people are judging "spool time" by 1/4 mile runs. I looked back at some of my old 16g logs and they aren't much different? rolling into the throttle in 3rd I'd see about 15lbs by 4k 30-35lbs by 5k.. In the quarter mile when I shifted rpms never fell below 4k.

I also think my logger may be off. Looking at my video It is showing well past 30lbs at 4k with the 16g. But looking at the logs spool up was much slower. :confused: I'll have to get the camera out again.

1993 Talon TSI :: holding25psi6krpm.mp4 video by Hybridgnx - Photobucket

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Justin had mentioned that they see about the same results with the .70 as my first logs in this thread. Indicating that the .70 would be a better choice. It had the sweet V band Dp flange as well... :thumb:
 
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