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Gap between exaust manifold and turbo ?

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Keithson30

10+ Year Contributor
121
0
Mar 11, 2011
OGDEN, Kansas
Ok what going on is the right rear bolt is hitting the exhaust manifold. So there is this big gap (see picture). Do I need to buy some sort of spacer ? Or do i need to buy different bolts ?
 

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ROFL

I'm sorry, I don't make it a habit to do this, but did you not notice that the stud lengths compared to the design of the manifold would result in this? You need to remove the studs from that Turbo and get bolts with the same thread pattern as those studs. Bolt the manifold down TO the turbo flange with the bolt heads facing up. Be careful when tightening as you WILL strip those threads. If all else fails, thread the bolt all the way through and place a nut on the other side as those holes pass all the way through.
 
Remember if you going to thread new bolts in to use metric 1.25mm thread pitch..Those threads will bolt right into the turbo..Unless you just go with a bolt with a nut to tighten it down..You will have to drill out the long bolt tho which is a PITA btw..
 
Why wouldn't you just cut the stud and put a nut on the top to bolt it down?
 
Remember if you going to thread new bolts in to use metric 1.25mm thread pitch..Those threads will bolt right into the turbo..Unless you just go with a bolt with a nut to tighten it down..You will have to drill out the long bolt tho which is a PITA btw..

Im going to have to drill those 3 bolts out ? Do you think it would be easier just to thread them bolts further down and cut them off ?
 
The threads on the rest of your bolts only have about an inch of thread on the bottom..So it appears that you will need new bolts.I'm suprised that whoever you got the manifold from didn't suggest new smaller bolts..The bolt thats sticking up..You might be able to cut it off and cut new threads into it..

Did you break the other 3 bolts off is that why your saying you will have to drill the rest out?
 
Nah man I was saying your probly going to have to drill out the long one..And I wouldn't suspect the old bolts to work very well since the stock manifold is much thicker than your new one..
I just got new bolts from Fastenel, I'm sure they could get you shorter bolts..But then again their not heat treated, so I still don't know how their going to hold up..She was only driven a couple miles back to my house..
 
Nah man I was saying your probly going to have to drill out the long one..And I wouldn't suspect the old bolts to work very well since the stock manifold is much thicker than your new one..
I just got new bolts from Fastenel, I'm sure they could get you shorter bolts..But then again their not heat treated, so I still don't know how their going to hold up..She was only driven a couple miles back to my house..

I am getting ready to go to hardware store soon. You think heat treated matters that much ? Will a grade 8 bolt work ? Or should I try and find a heat treated one ?
Im going to Home Depot not sure what all they carry.
 
The last two hardware stores I went to the one store only has standard, and the other one didn't have a long enough..That was on a stock manifold, the bolts are 81 or 82mm's long..So maybe you will have luck at your local hardware store..Because the bolts you need are not going to be 80+mm's long..

The bolts I got from fastenel are grade 8, but they are not heat treated..Which Might pose a problem down the road, or could work completely fine with no problems..Only time will tell I suppose..
 
If that were my mani, I'd run evo turbo to mani bolts. They're grade 11, and made to stand up to the heat and pressure.
 
Is the manifold you bought ceramic coated?

If not heat wrap will help keep under hood temps down but there is an even worse side to heat wrap..Heat wrap will cause your manifold to crack more easily, because the heat is basically trapped in the header..And if it is the cheap pacesetter manifold, heat wrap means it will most likely crack for sure,quicker than it it will crack normally..
 
Im not sure who made this header. I bought it off a guy on here for $ 50 and had to weld it. It had a little crack in it, so im pretty sure it is the pacesetter header. I needed a new one because my stock one has a crack in it.
 
I had a stainless manifold similar to that. It was a POS, I went back to the cast manifold. And x2 on antisieze, use them on head studs too.
 
I have an arc welder.
You'll be welding it twice a year if you have the same luck as my buddy Jeff did with his.
And this header is gonna destroy my valve cover paint ? Can I buy a heat shield or wrap it in heat tape ?
No heat shield fits it, and wrapping does nothing to keep the heat down. The only way to prevent destroying your valve cover is to use a ported 2G, Evo III, or FP cast manifold instead.

Pacesetter headers are horrible. They're the thinnest tubular header you can buy, meaning more heat in the engine bay and less durability. On top of that their design is atrocious- there's one bolt hole on the manifold flange that you just can't reach from any angle, and it offers little to no performance gain as it's not even an equal-length header.
 
Dude that blows...Have you a set of socketing wrenches, that might help..Just t thought tho, maybe you should put the stock manifold back on and see if it leaks thru the crack..If not your good to go..
 
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