FWD TO AWD swap question not found anywhere

[turboglenn]

Since i don't have the AWD trans and t-case yet how feasible is it to mount the rear end and tank as well as the brackets for the d-shaft, and leave either the driveshaft or something out so there's nothing flopping around but the rear end is not losing fluid while functioning as a dead axle rear setup for a short time?


This way everythng would be ready and when i come across the trans, t-case and other axles and stub shaft i need i can put them in on a one day affair and finally be AWD.. Gotta sell my TRE if anyone is looking fort a nice one stage 2.5 with about 15k miles on it, never been to the track and you can option on quaife or no quaife please PM me

Also, is it the center diff or the viscouse coupler that people make a solid unit out of to run FWD for dyno sessions and such?
I have to get the shell out of my driveway fast before i get fgined for it not plated, insured etc... (yes here it it's outside it has to be legit)

 

[97gst_spyder]

Just install the fuel tank and rear subframe. You don't have to have the diff/rear axles/driveshaft installed.

That's what I'm doing with mine for a few weeks until I have the axles, diff, and trans ready for the full swap.

 

[miguelmcv]

Yeap,

That's the way I did mine as well.

Change all the rear end, but you have to play with the Exhaust pipe.
Because having a rear gsx,,,, the gst pipe will no longer be able to clear the rear end.

Use the gsx pipe and play with it..

It is easy to make this thing work.

Once you have the rear end bolt it on,,,,,,, everything is a peace of cake......

Which the rear end is the hardest part.

Gook Luck.

 

[turboglenn]

I didn't get an AWD exhaust at all so i'll be chopping and havking the thermal 3" to make it work unless i can get driveline parts on trade locally for it

 

[97gst_spyder]

It depends on what FWD exhaust you have. If it follows the factory curves it will not work. if its straight and under the axle, it will be very easy to make it fit.

 

[miguelmcv]

If you have a welder, You can modify the gst pipe to make it work.

Peace of Cake.

 

[turboglenn]

metla work is alll i do, got mig, tig and so on and so on

 

[miguelmcv]

Nice.

Then you are all set to do the swap.

Here is my swap, Just to give you an Idea of the swap.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/402650-awd-conversion-project.html

 

[turboglenn]

yea, but i am in need of many important parts that either need to get delivered later today or i'm gonna find another way to do the swap, i've found some shells from 300 - 600 with drivelines in them locally so i'm on a mission now

I followed your thrad a whuile back as i was intrigued that you put ther other one back to FWD (smart man, now got 2 cars )

I only wish i had everything i need cayuse now i've got an eye sore in the driveway and waitign to sell parts that are ON MY CAR to buy parts i need to put on my car

with i could sell all my 1/5th scale gas RC shit

I really want to take my time depending on how well the swapping goes and run an entirely new engine harness while i'm in there but they're two very different jobs. I tell ya one thing.. I'm putting on my big 2 pot GSX brakes TONIGHT SON< no more brakes barely good enough for a power wheels jeep I got the banjo bolt ones but have SS lines as well as the OEM lines to use the banjo's just fine too..already checked and the calipers are free and working.. if money wasn't so tight i'd rebuild them but they hold fluid pressure and don't leak so = good enough

 

[miguelmcv]

Any pics of the brakes

 

[turboglenn]

Not yet, they;'re in clean up stages, wire brush, rust converter, then primed for pain, pics later though

one thing that was a little let down as i don't have an LSD rear end but oh well, don't know how to tell 3 from 4 bolt though :shurgs:

 

[97gst_spyder]

A local has one for $300 with axles. PM me if you want it.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Not yet, they;'re in clean up stages, wire brush, rust converter, then primed for pain, pics later though

Ever think about using electrolytic rust removal? I did it you my calipers and it worked great.

All you need is:

1 bucket big enough for the brake disk
1 box of washing soda (can be found at a grocery store)
1 anode (I used steel plate)
1 battery charger
1 rusty item to derust (brake disk)
1 or 2 jugs of purified water

-Fill the bucket with water and washing soda (1 tbls to every gallon).
-Make sure the washing soda is dissolved, so you may need to stir it.
-Clamp the anode to the side of the bucket.
-Attach the POSITIVE lead of the battery charger to the anode.
-Attach the NEGATIVE lead to the rusty part (make sure you get good contact, so you may have to clean a small part of rust off).
-Plug charger into wall. (the higher the amperage the better)
-Don't touch the water
-Don't let the anode touch the part
-Let sit for a couple hours.

When its done it will leave a blackish residue on the part that brushes off real easily with either a wire brush or scotch bright pad. Also, the water will be NASTY. But it's none toxic and can be reused for this purpose many times over.

 

[turboglenn]

man, these GSt brakes are welded on here, i had to plasma cut the first one off (replacing cheap coil overs with OEM struts at same time) but i'm down to the last rotor and caliper instal and just have to gravity bleed the system and i'm good, but these gst rotors are always hell to get off

 

[T is for TURBO]

but these gst rotors are always hell to get off

Yes, Yes they are. A rubber mallet does wonders. Also, the stock swirlies always seemed to get corroded on also. I rubber malleted the shit out of those too

 

[turboglenn]

what are the swirlies? and rubber mallet was in the back seat today.. I actually used the plasma cutter to relieve the tension, then used a 3lb sledge to drive them fawkers off and it still took 30 minutes each of hard labor.

Last time i did a set they were about the same.. when i am having a fun ride in my car the biggest let down is always the little GST brakes, i can get through third gear so fast that one stop back down to 30mph or so and they are warped adn shaking until they cool (and i torque all my lugs every time and take other precautions, they're just tuny and fade fast)

I love the look of the new GSX ones, although not that pretty, the larger dual pot caliper and bigger diameter rotor are both pleasing.. hopefully tomorrow i can try them out more than 15 feet.. or i start on the swap and don'[t drive it for a week or so

 

[T is for TURBO]

Swirlies are the stock talon rims.

I did the AWD brake upgrade also this year, and its a pretty noticeable difference, and I still need to bleed them out better. I hope your swap goes well. My car will be going under the same operation this winter as well. I'm just going to wait until the snow starts flying.

 

[bryanwheat]

I always just use a 8mm bolt in the threaded holes to get the rotor loose. A little anti seize in the hole goes a long way. Only had a few that actually needed the 8lb sledge to remove in pieces.