Full Car Plan... Need some advice!!

[drivemusicnow]

As of now, i have the engine and trans out of my 1993 Eclipse GSX Here is what i'm planning (haven't purchased anything yet) I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to cheaper, more effective ways to do things. i'm making this as a (now slightly higher) budget racer. reliability is second to overall speed. (not 1/4 mile..)

Rebuild stuff:
Topline engine rebuild kit
Scat forged rods
machine work
replacement stuff
ebay radiator
2g ported exhaust manifold
Tuning/Logging
DSMlink
Zeitronix with boost, egt and O2
Mods
Bullseye power to4b v-trim kit
walbro 255
n1 downpipe
custom exhuast
Spearco intercooler core
custom piping (need to figure out what to do for airflow detection.
Clutch (still deciding which)
Boost sciences manual boost controller
Fuel injector Clinic 650s
(possibly upgrading fuel lines?)

What am I forgetting? What don't I need? and what can I do a little cheaper?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I'd definatly invest in a MAF-T blow thru setup as well.

 

[huafist]

You're wasting money on the forged rods if you're using a topline rebuild kit. Just use stock rods, they'll hold all the power you can safely make with that setup. If you're set on forged rods, do it right and score some forged pistons while you're at it.

You're also gonna need an AFPR or you're gonna be in fuel hell with that 255. It'll overrun the stock regulator like nobody's business.

 

[sweet97]

I went with an EPROM ECU for $330. from FFWD I believe with a keydiver chip for $115. He can do so much more with the chips and he keeps adding options, $450. less than dsmlink. That's just my choice so don't bother bashing it. Also www.kteller.com has nice and inexpensive turboback exhausts for as little as $575. in 3" SS without a muffler. I went with their stainless exhaust and added my own magnaflow ovalmuffler, 5"x8"x18" and with the resonator they offer I finally have a quiet, high flowing exhaust. If you need an EPROM ECU PMme and I willlook up the ivoice and get his address. mark

 

[drivemusicnow]

You're wasting money on the forged rods if you're using a topline rebuild kit. Just use stock rods, they'll hold all the power you can safely make with that setup. If you're set on forged rods, do it right and score some forged pistons while you're at it.

You're also gonna need an AFPR or you're gonna be in fuel hell with that 255. It'll overrun the stock regulator like nobody's business.

whoops, yeah, i meant to add the AFPR. although again, i have no idea which would be the most cost effective option for me.

from one of the fuel delivery upgrades, it seems like its almost neccesary to upgrade the line coming from the tank, the filter, and the line to the rail. although i haven't heard of too many non track only cars doing this. anybody have an estimate of how much all that stainless steel hose, AN fittings, and higher flow filter would be?

How are the topline pistons? i'm a little leary of them, however my budget is way over planned right now.

I haven't had a chance to check if i have an eeprom ecu yet... i need to do that very soon.

 

[huafist]

whoops, yeah, i meant to add the AFPR. although again, i have no idea which would be the most cost effective option for me.

from one of the fuel delivery upgrades, it seems like its almost neccesary to upgrade the line coming from the tank, the filter, and the line to the rail. although i haven't heard of too many non track only cars doing this. anybody have an estimate of how much all that stainless steel hose, AN fittings, and higher flow filter would be?

How are the topline pistons? i'm a little leary of them, however my budget is way over planned right now.

I haven't had a chance to check if i have an eeprom ecu yet... i need to do that very soon.

Topline pistons are fine as long as you're not trying to make BIG power. Like I said in my previous post, if you're looking to make enough power to need forged rods, invest in a set of forged pistons while you're at it. You'll thank yourself later.
As far as the fuel lines, price depends on where you buy. I did a quick search of SlowBoy's site and a complete SS fuel line setup (tank->filter, filter->rail, rail->AFPR->return line) will run you about $300. Again, I don't know that it's absolutely necessary unless you're running high boost and need a ton of fuel.

 

[evolvingGS-t]

Your stock fuel line and rail will handle a lot of power. I won't need to upgrade them.

Well your custom piping is going to cost you a pretty penny. I'd say if you scratch that you'll save.

I like my SAFC for my tuning methods.

 

[mitsuman_626]

check out the 2.3 stroker kit at slowboy racing
its worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!

A close friend of mine has that in his car his setup it is very fast.

check out member - johnalomu#11.

 

[drivemusicnow]

Your stock fuel line and rail will handle a lot of power. I won't need to upgrade them.

Well your custom piping is going to cost you a pretty penny. I'd say if you scratch that you'll save.

I like my SAFC for my tuning methods.

How would figureing out the path i need for both exhaust and intake and building it myself be more expensive than buying it somewhere??

Anywho... i really need to cut down some costs if at all possible.. the 350 AWHP goal is there, i'd like to achieve that with 93 octane.. as an update to my first post, this is all the things i need plus costs involved with each one. (shipping isn't included) I also really need advice on whether i should go with the topline kit, or go all OEM, or do topline gaskets, seals, bearings and such with forged pistons. Here are the prices i've allotted to each topic. CUT COSTS as much as possible, while still keeping the goal.

Rebuild stuff:
Topline engine rebuild kit $450
Scat forged rods $280
machine work ?$400?
replacement stuff
ebay radiator $120
2g ported exhaust manifold$ 50
Tuning/Logging
DSMlink $600
Zeitronix with boost, egt and O2$450
Mods
Bullseye power to4b v-trim kit $750
walbro 255 $95
Adjustable FPR $150
n1 downpipe $215
custom exhuast ?$250?
Spearco intercooler core ?$300?
custom piping (need to figure out what to do for airflow detection.
Clutch (Think i'm going with the SPEC) $340
Boost sciences manual boost controller $65
Fuel injector Clinic 650s $280

 

[gixrman]

I'd definatly invest in a MAF-T blow thru setup as well.

Won't need that soon, DSMLINK is gonna connect right to a GM MAF. thats one of the upgrades there working on.

 

[drivemusicnow]

Won't need that soon, DSMLINK is gonna connect right to a GM MAF. thats one of the upgrades there working on.

ooo, i'm waiting for that... that would be key

 

[sweet97]

Well 350AWHP could be done with an EVO III which ported by buschur is around $620. and you keep water cooled center section. Forced performance is offerig an 18G without turbine for $429. Use the stock turbine or the bullseye at $229. $660. there for 600CFM and an 18g is like a small 20G, really underrated IMHO. If you can go with a 2.5" exhaust I am selling a Buschur 2.5" mandrel bent SS turbo back for $250. plus shipping, can't beat that. If you must have 3" go with the www.kteller.com for $515. in aluminumized or $575.for SS, both are without muffler. Forged rods are not required for 350AWHP. You will need an EPROM ECU for DSMlink. $330. if you do not have one. Great choice for an IC, Spearco. I got mine from dsmtrader with short route IC to TB for $400.shipping included. Recently I saw the same core with ALL piping for $500, a steal.
That's Turbo-$660.
Exhaust-$250. to $575.
EPROM ECU-$330. DSMchip/$115., $500.less than DSMlink
FMIC-$500.
Build the block as strong as you can afford. Then choose the turbo. Any chance your car was an early'93 and is a 6 bolt? If you take your time and consider some used parts you will reach your goal within budget. mark

 

[drivemusicnow]

its definitly a 7 bolt, and i have an eprom ecu already (oh man was i happy to see that E)

I have been reading all of the "mutt/bullseye/BS/namecalling" threads...

from what i can tell i'd be okay with buying from bullseye, i like the package, and i think it'll suit my needs... however i'd love to see what other options... say full turbo with gaskets and oil kit for 800 max. with road racing as the type of racing

at what power levels does it become a good idea to go with forged rods and pistons vs stock?

 

[jott5555]

if u wanna get really fly.. with dsmlink you can use a gm map sensor instead of the maft or other units avaliable for mitsu..

that would be my choice. that way you have no clogs at all in the intake tract.

 

[sweet97]

I can't give an accurate answer on 1g 7 bolt rods. That's what I have in my '93AWD. I did just get the RS60T/60-1 turbo from AGP which comes with the bullseye turbine which I like verymuch, very beefy and nicely cast, very smooth and symetrical. It was $699. plus$100. foroil lines and $100. for the internal wastegate. Iam getting 20-21 psi on pump and this turbo is good for 30PSI. Nice. to check it out, www.agpturbo.com. Great customer service. I alsohad a 50trim from AGP. Do not worry about lag with the 60-1. The wheel flows a lot of air at low pSI. I use a keydiver chip with compensation for my 650cc inj's along with a lot of goodies for$115.
the 650's are enough forpumpgas but with race I would want 780 or even 880's with keydiver compensation of course.
I run a ColdAir Intake with my K&N in the space my stock sidemount once was. I run a spearco 2-221 which is a top to bottom that flows 1080CFM @1.5 psi drop.
Nate at SBR runs the 60-1 and puts down 532awhp on race and drives it daily. good for me with 109k miles and great for a built motor at 500+HP. Mark

 

[drivemusicnow]

if u wanna get really fly.. with dsmlink you can use a gm map sensor instead of the maft or other units avaliable for mitsu..

that would be my choice. that way you have no clogs at all in the intake tract.

How accurate is this, and what GM MAP sensor would i need? does it totaly replace the inline airflow sensor?

(for some reason i always thought that MAP sensors were much less accurate that a MAF or MAS)

 

[jott5555]

it eliminates the whole intake tract sensor. it is a little harder to tune. but. you will save money on not haveing to put in a maft setup, plus there are pita issues tuneing a maft and dsmlink

 

[BrokenTsi]

check out the 2.3 stroker kit at slowboy racing
its worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!

A close friend of mine has that in his car his setup it is very fast.

check out member - johnalomu#11.

He said he wanted a reliable motor.

Just rebuild your motor however you like it and get it running with the parts that you have. Then start modding it. Its a good mod list and all, as you start putting parts on, you'll know exactly what you need to get it running right.

First thing you need to do is find out how fast you actually want to go. If you want reliability, rebuild the motor with OEM parts. 4g63 is good for over 400whp.

 

[gixrman]

if u wanna get really fly.. with dsmlink you can use a gm map sensor instead of the maft or other units avaliable for mitsu..

that would be my choice. that way you have no clogs at all in the intake tract.

Are you refering to speed desity? If so I don't think thats available yet or the option of running in closed loop all the time which they only recomend for racing. The GM mas is about as free flowing as you can get.

 

[jott5555]

yes speed density,, it is avaliable on dsmlink and works perfectally, i dont know what their recomendation are as far as closed loop driving is but. its at least an option to look into

 

[SlowboyCSE]

Just posting to clarify.

Forged rods like SCAT, Eagle, Manley etc. are designed with a full floating style wrist pin in mind, full floating pins are what come with Ross, Wiseco, most other forged pistons etc. Stock pistons use press fit pins. Getting full floating rods to work with a stock piston is more money than it's worth with the extra machine work it takes.

 

[evolvingGS-t]

No where in your first thread did you mention that you'd be doing the custom exhaust and intake yourself.

So I went the the obvious that sometimes a custom job is a little more expensive then a manufactured intake/exhaust.

 

[mitsuman_626]

He said he wanted a reliable motor.

Just rebuild your motor however you like it and get it running with the parts that you have. Then start modding it. Its a good mod list and all, as you start putting parts on, you'll know exactly what you need to get it running right.

First thing you need to do is find out how fast you actually want to go. If you want reliability, rebuild the motor with OEM parts. 4g63 is good for over 400whp.

the stroker kit (all billet parts and balanced) will be as reliable or more reliable than any OEM setup.

it's good for around 650hp and if all you want is 400hp just adjust boost pressure or turbo
size accordingly.

with a t3/t4 50 trim you'd have an absolute torque monster pulling from 2800-6500 rpms and it will be very reliable since it wouldn't running the engine to it's limit.

I'm not just saying this I've seen it.