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1G Fuel system upgrade need some advice.

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Boosted92rs

Proven Member
131
178
Apr 26, 2022
Granville Summit, Pennsylvania
Ok so the car should finally get back from paint soon 🙌🏻. Time to get the parts list together and order items needed. Trying to find the best places to buy items and questions about certain items.

-8AN PTFE line does it really matter on brand?

E85 sensor GM and that's it?

AEM MAP sensor, what pressure should I go with?

Fuel rails does it really matter which brand or what would help with the clutter potentially?

I'm a little confused looking on ECMTuning website when wanting to order SD cable/bundle and there's the E85 pigtail that they can put in for you as well.

The plan here is to go -8AN feed PTFE with E85, convert to SD with using an AEM MAP sensor, along with wanting to run a fuel pressure sensor on my AFPR and -6AN return line. I don't want to chop up my engine harness and I have some money to play with so I'm not afraid to spend the extra if its worth it.
 
Ok so the car should finally get back from paint soon 🙌🏻. Time to get the parts list together and order items needed. Trying to find the best places to buy items and questions about certain items.

-8AN PTFE line does it really matter on brand?

E85 sensor GM and that's it?

AEM MAP sensor, what pressure should I go with?

Fuel rails does it really matter which brand or what would help with the clutter potentially?

I'm a little confused looking on ECMTuning website when wanting to order SD cable/bundle and there's the E85 pigtail that they can put in for you as well.

The plan here is to go -8AN feed PTFE with E85, convert to SD with using an AEM MAP sensor, along with wanting to run a fuel pressure sensor on my AFPR and -6AN return line. I don't want to chop up my engine harness and I have some money to play with so I'm not afraid to spend the extra if its worth it.
I personally would run good name brand fuel line. Like Vibrant, or Russell's. Fuel you don't wanna cheap out on fuel line.

GM ethanol sensor works just fine. I run one.

MAP sensor depends on what your boost goals are. Keep in mind you need to add atmospheric value (usually 14.7 for Sea level) to your max boost level. If you're running ECMLink the maps only read so high until you lose resolution, which means your boost pressure can read off or not very linear. AEM stainless is the way to go, just calculate your atmospheric and boost.

There's a ton of fuel rails. AEM makes some I think are cheap ish and are decent quality. Or there's like JMfab, FIC, etc. you might not even need a fuel rail depending on your goals

The speed density harness WITH the ethanol sensor just gets wired into the OEM MAF harness. Comes with directions for installation. No cutting required, just de-pinning
 
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-8an ptfe line does it really matter on brand?
Yes and no. Go for the middle of the line. Some brands are just expensive for no reason. Don't get fooled, they're still mostly being sourced from China. You can get off brand that are just as good. Fittings can nickel dime you to death. It's all about your technique to get this to work properly.

E85 sensor gm and thats it?
Yes, but have a plan of how to incorporate it.

Aem map sensor what pressure should I go with?
3.5 bar.

Fuel rails does it really matter which brand or what would help with the clutter potentially?
Stock will work fine. I actually already have one with fittings (-8 and -6). HMU if you're interested.

Im a little confused looking on ECM links website when wanting to order SD cable/ bundle and theres the E85 pigtail that they can put in for you as well.
What is your confusion exactly?
 
What is your confusion exactly?
I would have to look again but I was thinking if I'm going with an AEM MAP sensor I can't just do the plug and play to the MAF (buying their SD cable) it says I can use an AEM IAT but doesn't say anything about an AEM MAP sensor.
 
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Not to get too far off the original topic, but I’ve been curious about using the stock fuel rail with E85. Conventional wisdom says not to use any bare aluminum parts in your E85 fuel system. But the stock rail is just cast aluminum. The aftermarket rails are anodized and thus deemed safe for E85. I’ve noticed that lots of people appear to be using the stock rail when converting to E85 and there’s been no flood of horror stories. But I’ve also seen some reports of corroded stock fuel rails. The possibility of clogging my injectors with corroded aluminum powder is not very appealing, but I’m unsure how much of a risk this actually is.
 
Not to get too far off the original topic, but I’ve been curious about using the stock fuel rail with E85. Conventional wisdom says not to use any bare aluminum parts in your E85 fuel system. But the stock rail is just cast aluminum. The aftermarket rails are anodized and thus deemed safe for E85. I’ve noticed that lots of people appear to be using the stock rail when converting to E85 and there’s been no flood of horror stories. But I’ve also seen some reports of corroded stock fuel rails. The possibility of clogging my injectors with corroded aluminum powder is not very appealing, but I’m unsure how much of a risk this actually is.


Pretty sure conventional wisdom ends up being either

1) Just run an occasional tank of 93.

and/or

2) Don't let the car just sit for extended periods of time.
 
Fuel rails does it really matter which brand or what would help with the clutter potentially?
Mitsubishi rail works great. I maxed a 37r at boost into the 50s using a Walbro 450, boost-a-pump, stock hanger, stock fuel lines, stock fuel filter, 2150cc injectors, bolt on adjustable FPR. That's it. Nothing else.

GM IAT works great.

AEM MAP sensor is the consensus currently. I have used OMNI sensors for almost 15 years with zero issues, YMMV there.
Pick a pressure that is realistic to what you're going to give it.

The meat of ECMTuning's kit is a wire harness that plugs into the MAF plug then goes to the IAT and MAP. It's really just plug and play for those that are maybe scared of wiring or don't know/want to wire the sensors directly into the ECU harness. I have both situations here on my cars and there's no wrong answer here.
 
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Mitsubishi rail works great. I maxed a 37r at boost into the 50s using a Walbro 450, boost-a-pump, stock hanger, stock fuel lines, stock fuel filter, 2150cc injectors, bolt on adjustable FPR. That's it. Nothing else.

GM IAT works great.

AEM MAP sensor is the consensus currently. I have used OMNI sensors for almost 15 years with zero issues, YMMV there.
Pick a pressure that is realistic to what you're going to give it.

The meat of ECMTuning's kit is a wire harness that plugs into the MAF plug then goes to the IAT and MAP. It's really just plug and play for those that are maybe scared of wiring or don't know/want to wire the sensors directly into the ECU harness. I have both situations here on my cars and there's no wrong answer here.
But can you use AEM MAP and AEM IAT sensor with the plug n play kit from ECMTuning is my question. It says GM or AEM MAP but says GM IAT though.
 
AEM's IAT is just a GM IAT with their name attached to it. Uses the same plug and everything. The AEM MAP sensor will need to have their specific plug soldered onto to the plug and play harness in place of the GM style one however.
 
Stock fuel rail is fine. I have been using mine on e85 sense the early 2010s without issue. I also have made well over 700 on it without issue, another local car here runs a stock rail with a 6466 at around 40psi and we have seen no issues.

GM intake temp sensor is fine. I am honestly not aware of any other choice but this GM sensor.

The AEM MAP sensor is considered more reliable. We have used the Omni for many years and have had some die before. Pick one for your goals. I thought you could order the harness already set up for AEM MAP sensor? The higher it can read the lower the "resolution" so no need to pick something like a 5 bar for a car that will never need it.
 
Stock fuel rail is fine. I have been using mine on e85 sense the early 2010s without issue. I also have made well over 700 on it without issue, another local car here runs a stock rail with a 6466 at around 40psi and we have seen no issues.

GM intake temp sensor is fine. I am honestly not aware of any other choice but this GM sensor.

The AEM MAP sensor is considered more reliable. We have used the Omni for many years and have had some die before. Pick one for your goals. I thought you could order the harness already set up for AEM MAP sensor? The higher it can read the lower the "resolution" so no need to pick something like a 5 bar for a car that will never need it.
Yea you can get the AEM IAT no problem but it doesn't state on their web site that you can have an AEM MAP sensor only talks about the GM MAP sensor.

AEM's IAT is just a GM IAT with their name attached to it. Uses the same plug and everything. The AEM MAP sensor will need to have their specific plug soldered onto to the plug and play harness in place of the GM style one however.
Is this something I'd have to do after the fact or would ECMTuning do it put an AEM MAP sensor on?
 
I don't want to speak for them, and they're a dam good company, but IDT they offer that. It would be an easy swap to the other pigtail, but to be honest, I've ran the OMNI sensors since I got into DSM's. I have 3 cars. I had one unit act real funny and I bought it from ECMTuning. They replaced it with no issues at all and they seem to work good with the ECMLink programming. I run a 4 bar. Getting close to having to run a 5 bar but, for now, I'm still running the one I got at least 8 years ago. Like @jed344 said, get a sensors in the range you will be using and also take a peak on ECMLink to see if they already have parameters set up for said sensor, just to make it easy.
Don't forget, 1 bar is good up to ZERO boost. Every additional bar is an additional 14.5 lbs that it will read. Just for information. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Marty
 
I don't want to speak for them, and they're a dam good company, but IDT they offer that. It would be an easy swap to the other pigtail, but to be honest, I've ran the OMNI sensors since I got into DSM's. I have 3 cars. I had one unit act real funny and I bought it from ECMTuning. They replaced it with no issues at all and they seem to work good with the ECMLink programming. I run a 4 bar. Getting close to having to run a 5 bar but, for now, I'm still running the one I got at least 8 years ago. Like @jed344 said, get a sensors in the range you will be using and also take a peak on ECMLink to see if they already have parameters set up for said sensor, just to make it easy.
Don't forget, 1 bar is good up to ZERO boost. Every additional bar is an additional 14.5 lbs that it will read. Just for information. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Marty
Yes from what I have seen. We have ran for instance Omni 4 bars up into low 40's for boost. Technically I think 43psi is where they max. So they read 3 bar of pressure over our atmospheric pressure. We have had Omni MAP sensors dead out of the box before. Easy to tell usually with key on they will read either boost or very low vacuum vs the normal hair of vacuum just sitting. I still run one on my own car but I do not push anyone to one or the other.
 
Good rule of thumb is remove 14.7 off of whatever the "bar" rating is for the MAP. 3 BAR = 44.1. Remove 14.7 and it's 29.4.


Scale it up and down how you need. Not sure if the big name standalones have magic they can do to read higher but ECMLink, TunerPro, Jackal/Werewolf, all do it this way from personal experience. You can absolutely run higher boost than what a MAP sensor is rated for, but anything above its max rating is locked in settings/adjustments wise. So if you run 40lbs on a 3bar map, you better hope from 29lbs up to 40lbs all have identical needs for VE, timing, and etc, and need no adjustments or else you're SOL.

(this post not directed at anyone in particular, just adding hopefully useful info)
 
I used to run a GM 3.3 bar in my 1G. 38-39psi (boost) is where it flatlined so the 3.5 bar is perfect for most DSMrs....and it should already have a template in DSMLink V3 because that is the sensor I ran in my old VR4 and that has seen upwards of 50psi.
 
I maxed my 4 bar at 44lbs, as an example.
 
Awesome info guys!!! This gives me all the info needed for me to order my parts now. 😎.

Just was thinking I didn't run an inline fuel filter with a check valve before (stock fuel pump) but I've upgraded to a regular relief 450 pump would I need a check valve?

Didn't know if it would make a difference or not, got everything figured out but this LOL
 
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