2G Fuel smell

[sinned4g63]

I've been noticing in the past few months of driving that it starts to smell like fuel after I park, usually I notice when I get home after work (about 20-30 minute drive). When I park I walk around the back of the car and away from the passenger side and that's usually where I get the most noticeable smell. I checked under the car and to little surprise found some rusty lines that appear to be brake and fuel.. one showing spots of rust that I assume is the fuel line hence the smell. It never drips and I never see any puddles but it's there. Along the process of refreshing the car I'd like to do steel braided lines anyways but I'm not sure where to find this portion. I found stock lines on mitsubishipartswarehouse.com p/n MR134402 for large and MF661023 for small but having some difficulty finding aftermarket lines.. I have a mechanic friend that has a spray for recoating the underside of cars but he shared the concern of trapping moisture and possible debris so again turning to the steel braided option. Can anyone recommend a kit from extremepsi.com or elsewhere or is it simply just replacing the line? Any insight appreciated

 

[Kryndon]

I've had two DSMs so far and both had this exact issue. My first was a '96 GS which always smelled like gas near the gas cap immediately after driving (but then goes away).

My current one (the Talon) has it also, but it ALWAYS smells like gas; the fuel sloshes around; and filling up to the max makes a pop sound and I get a significant leak/drippage.

Keep in mind that the AWD DSMs have a plastic retainer ring and a rubber seal that goes between that and the fuel pump assembly. I have changed that but the problem did not go away, so I'm ruling that out. Additionally, the FWD ones don't have it like this but rather have a metal plate that simply bolts onto the gas tank (which is metal in FWD, plastic in AWD).

I decided to live with it (I like gas smell anyway), but I last suspected one of the 2 rubber lines to be loose/corroded, which could be the cause of the leak/vapors. I'm talking about the two rubber lines that go into the fuel pump assembly. It could also be the ones on the unit on the driver side. But yeah, I never found a clear answer to this and I don't think there's one on here either. So good luck and please do report back if/when you manage to fix yours!

 

[sinned4g63]

Well I know a regulator would be ideal or needed along the lines down the road anyways, I'm thinking if I can get the high pressure one for cheaper I could justify spending the extra for the regulator now. Onto the filter, would you recommend anything with that or would I be fine for the time being if I were to do the high pressure and afpr? With the more I add to the list the more I'll have to space out the work if possible. Rewire will be done regardless when this all comes together. Everthing I've read says it's a must or at least highly recommended.

 

[Murdertalon]

Sounds like your on the right track, with a high flow pump, rewire and an afpr you will have a solid fuel delivery good for a lot of hp. I think you can use the stock fuel filter for upto 450hp ish from what I recall. I mean replace the fuel filter like once a year or so. I wouldn't run a 255 without a fuel pressure regulator from what I have read on this site.

The rewire is required because you will have a loss of voltage/amperage at WOT through the anemic stock wiring running back there. I have seen lots of people report just doing the rewire allowed them to run much better flow on the stock fuel pump. Its easy to do, if you know someone that can install a car stereo and amp they can do it.

I noticed my car pulls stronger stock (turbo and fp) with just a rewire and new fuel filter. Also starts at the flick of a key vs having to crank couple times before.

 

[sinned4g63]

The rewire is required because you will have a loss of voltage/amperage at WOT through the anemic stock wiring running back there. I have seen lots of people report just doing the rewire allowed them to run much better flow on the stock fuel pump. Its easy to do, if you know someone that can install a car stereo and amp they can do it.

I noticed my car pulls stronger stock (turbo and fp) with just a rewire and new fuel filter. Also starts at the flick of a key vs having to crank couple times before.

That is awesome to know, I'm looking forward to it very much. Sounds like I'll be getting myself some goodies for Christmas!

 

[sinned4g63]

I've had two DSMs so far and both had this exact issue. My first was a '96 GS which always smelled like gas near the gas cap immediately after driving (but then goes away).

My current one (the Talon) has it also, but it ALWAYS smells like gas; the fuel sloshes around; and filling up to the max makes a pop sound and I get a significant leak/drippage.

Keep in mind that the AWD DSMs have a plastic retainer ring and a rubber seal that goes between that and the fuel pump assembly. I have changed that but the problem did not go away, so I'm ruling that out. Additionally, the FWD ones don't have it like this but rather have a metal plate that simply bolts onto the gas tank (which is metal in FWD, plastic in AWD).

I decided to live with it (I like gas smell anyway), but I last suspected one of the 2 rubber lines to be loose/corroded, which could be the cause of the leak/vapors. I'm talking about the two rubber lines that go into the fuel pump assembly. It could also be the ones on the unit on the driver side. But yeah, I never found a clear answer to this and I don't think there's one on here either. So good luck and please do report back if/when you manage to fix yours!

Thanks for the input, I will definitely let you know what I find. I wanted to do this stuff anyways down the road, it just so happens that the process of repairs led me to it earlier then planned. Like you, I was never bothered by the smell but the lines concerned me under the car as previously mentioned so I wanted to make sure that didn't pose an issue. Once I'm able to get the pump and open up the stock one I'll report with pics.

 

[sinned4g63]

Ok so winter is slowly leaving the east coast and this weekend was able to tackle the pump rewire, the fuel pressure regulator was put in sometime in March. Only thing left is the pump itself but everything is ready to drop in, just need one more nice day to get it done but I wanted to let everyone know I didn't forget! Mama didn't raise no quitter. Weather this week will be in and out so we will see how the weekend shapes up. With the rewire I can't say I notice the car starting quicker but the throttle response is definitely more solid and smooth, going out for some spirited driving tonight to test it out a little more. I'll continue to update when the pump is in but for now here's the wiring job on the relay and fuse. As you can see I spliced into the wire for the pump as close to the seatbelt spool as I could, taking some of the tape off the plastic white cover going to the pump cover plate I was able to pull some slack through to cut and solder in the relay. The ground directly from the relay is grounded on the top bolt for bracket in the picture that goes inside the interior panel. I used the guide on Raktron for the process and the diagram from this post on DSMtuners for the wiring, got everything I needed for the wiring at my local PepBoys including the relay and relay harness.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-gs-t-fwd-gsx-awd-fuel-pump-rewire-diagram.377570/
http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html

 

[Murdertalon]

with a fuel pump rewire and a fuel filter my car starts at the flick of the key now vs you always had to crank on it before.

 

[sinned4g63]

with a fuel pump rewire and a fuel filter my car starts at the flick of the key now vs you always had to crank on it before.

I was considering doing the filter since I'd be doing the pump too, also being 21 years old it couldn't hurt but I haven't looked into the process yet. Also have to recoup funds as my registration and insurance expire the same month I already have the pump in hand though