1G Front wheel bearing removal help

[Vegas Smith]

I can't find any specific instructions on this (yes I've searched). How in the hell do I get this inner bearing sleeve out of the hub? I have a 20 ton hydraulic press btw.

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[talon77]

This inner bearing sleeve you are referring to is called the "outer race" of the bearing. In order to remove it, you have to first remove the snap ring on the engine side of the knuckle (pita). After the ring is out, what I did was I set the knuckle up in a press with the "wheel" side up and used a bearing driver tool (essentially a 65mm disk) to press the bearing down and out. The bearing came out of the "engine" side of the knuckle. I got the bearing driver tool set from harbour freight.

http://m.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-63261.html

I'll try to find some pics if you need it.

 

[tmoney20g]

My build thread could help, has pics, starting at this post: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1992-talon-tsi-awd-re-habilitation.477703/page-2#post-153459114

 

[Justin Lauscher]

I ended up having to score it really good with the cutoff wheel and air hammering it out. I tried pressing mine out for hours with a bunch of different ways propped up and I just couldn't get it.

 

[GST with PSI]

Basically what @talon77 said.

I used a press to get the entire thing apart. There are pics of everything disassembled in my build thread on the .Org. Scroll down a bit: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads...00&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=8&vc=1

 

[Vegas Smith]

This inner bearing sleeve you are referring to is called the "outer race" of the bearing. In order to remove it, you have to first remove the snap ring on the engine side of the knuckle (pita). After the ring is out, what I did was I set the knuckle up in a press with the "wheel" side up and used a bearing driver tool (essentially a 65mm disk) to press the bearing down and out. The bearing came out of the "engine" side of the knuckle. I got the bearing driver tool set from harbour freight.

http://m.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-63261.html

I'll try to find some pics if you need it.

I think I'll go this route first. I believe these kits can be rented from the local auto parts store. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Kapok6]

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[Vegas Smith]

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Oh great, I didn't know jafro did this. Thanks.

 

[Kapok6]

Oh great, I didn't know jafro did this. Thanks.

I think it's his most recent vid. It wasn't uploaded that long ago, so it's fairly new.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I'm really having a tough time get these bearings to turn smoothly. I'm pressing them the way jafro does in the video but if I press it too far in the hub completely locks up. I'll then pres it out the smallest bit and it will turn fine but with some resistance. It concerns me because the hub I took off the car spins much more freely then the one I just did. No matter how much or little I press the hub it still won't turn as freely as the old one on the car. Everything is greased and brand new. Thanks for any help.

 

[yokotabrat]

I'm really having a tough time get these bearings to turn smoothly. I'm pressing them the way jafro does in the video but if I press it too far in the hub completely locks up. I'll then pres it out the smallest bit and it will turn fine but with some resistance. It concerns me because the hub I took off the car spins much more freely then the one I just did. No matter how much or little I press the hub it still won't turn as freely as the old one on the car. Everything is greased and brand new. Thanks for any help.

The manual actually calls for a special tool that presses the new bearing in. This tool uses a bolt that gets torqued to a certain value. This allows the tool to apply the correct force to the bearing to keep it from being pressed in too little or too much as you are seeing. I ended up buying this special tool to make sure that I was doing it correctly. Probably not what most people do, but that's the route I went.

From what I remember, my new ones also had a little more drag than the old ones coming out, even after using the proper special tool. I suspect as the bearing gets broken in, it'll get better.

 

[Vegas Smith]

The manual actually calls for a special tool that presses the new bearing in. This tool uses a bolt that gets torqued to a certain value. This allows the tool to apply the correct force to the bearing to keep it from being pressed in too little or too much as you are seeing. I ended up buying this special tool to make sure that I was doing it correctly. Probably not what most people do, but that's the route I went.

From what I remember, my new ones also had a little more drag than the old ones coming out, even after using the proper special tool. I suspect as the bearing gets broken in, it'll get better.

I didn't notice that while reading the service manual today. I wonder if torquing the wheel nut is basically the same action though?

 

[talon77]

The only thing I can think of is that if you followed the jafro vid, he pressed the new bearing in with the inner race already installed. The factory service manual actually explicitly says, "With the wheel bearing inner race removed, press-in the bearing by using the special tools." I personally wouldn't have done it that way (with the inner race already installed) because I'm not sure if that has any ill effects on the bearings, and I try to follow the FSM as much as I can.

FWIW, my new bearing that I installed also had more drag than the old ones that were replaced. I also suspect that yours will spin more freely as they get broken in. I think you will likely be ok, but if you ever had to install another bearing though, consider pressing them in with the inner race removed first.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I actually have another set coming in for my passenger's side so I will follow the FSM on that on and if it comes out better I'll just redo the driver's side (and maybe try and buy the special tool on the cheap . Thanks for your help guys.

 

[Kapok6]

Anybody have a link to this "special tool?" (And don't go posting links to Donald Trumps website.)

 

[Vegas Smith]

http://www.usedcarstobuy.org/detail/Miller-Specialty-Service-Tool-Front-Hub-Seal_122117307245.html

 

[Kapok6]

Thanks! But man...I'm a DSMer...$50 ain't cheap, ha ha.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Thanks! But man...I'm a DSMer...$50 ain't cheap, ha ha.

Maybe you could lowball the place into $40..then lowball again when they accept.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I think I'm actually going to try and make my own special tool. I'll let you know how it turns out.