FPR Problem

[kt239]

I purchased a fpr a while back and finally got around to installing to today just to run into an issue, of course. Install went smooth BUT when the car starts the fuel sprays out of the feed line at the regulator. I have tried different o rings and have had the same result. It is an aem fpr and an install kit from map, anyone run into this and if so what did you do to resolve it?

Correction, it is the plug for the other feed input that is leaking.

 

[romeen]

Did you put gasoline compatible thread tape on the plug? It's yellow, not white like the plumbing tape.

Which AEM model do you have? Looking at AEM's website it says, "Our universal fuel pressure regulator is tapped to accept a -6 AN, or 9/16"x18 fittings."

If I'm not mistaken, -6AN and 9/16x18 fittings are not the same. I wonder if you were sent the wrong fitting or plug? Or am I misunderstanding you?

 

[kt239]

Thread tape, it never crossed my mind to use that to be honest. The fittings and plugs all fit in perfect though I'm not sure of which one they are it was the fpr+kit from map. I'm going to get that thread tape cause that's the solution I'm sure of it. Thanks a bunch

 

[kt239]

The thread tape was a winning suggestion thank you. And wanted to throw it out there that honestly that fpr made a huge difference in how my idles and runs. I read on here that the stock fpr would basically be the weak link for fuel but I never knew to what degree! To anyone doing heavy mods don't think of it as an option think of it as a standard item to replace.

 

[kchaazz]

-6AN, and the female oring ports on the regulator are both 9/16 x 18 thread, and if youre ever having to use thread tape on a fitting that is designed to seal on an oring, as the ports on the Aeromotive AFPR do, then there is something wrong. I understand that you were able to stop the leak with the thread tape, but I wouldnt trust it as the ONLY thread that can be properly sealed with thread tape is BSPT and NPT, as these are tapered and seal on their tapers. I would look to the oring on the fitting because sometimes the fitting sits on the shelf for a long time and the oring becomes dryrotted and cracked, or some companies use the wrong durometer (hardness) oring on the fitting- it should be a 90 durometer, nitrile oring- not silicone, not neoprene, as the latter two do not stand up to fuel.

 

[kt239]

Wow thanks for the information! I will have to look into that because I'm not a fan of relying on the tape. The oring SEEMED alright but it very well may have been bad. Never the less I did try a different oring and it did the same but from what I read it may be the wrong type of oring. Hmmm the seemingly solved issue gets a lil deeper

 

[gofer]

Take a photo of your setup, I'd like to see what it looks like on the AFPR.

 

[kchaazz]

PM me your address and Ill mail you some of the correct orings for free. Ive got pretty much every fitting and oring known to man at work.

 

[kt239]

Gofer I will do that tomorrow at work tomorrow when it's light out.

Pm in progress

 

[kt239]

Heres the pictures of the afpr...

The problematic piece

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Here's the other ones though they didn't leak I still put some on them

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[kchaazz]

Those orings appear to have too large of a cross section. The correct sized orings should actually slip into the groove that is machined into the ports and the nut portion of the plug should be flush with the FPR body when tightened. Also, while its a good idea to use tape or antiseize on aluminum threads, the only purpose for putting tape on the threads of the male AN fittings where the female AN fittings on the hoses attach is to prevent the aluminum threads from galling (seizing) together when tightening them, never to seal, as AN fittings seal on the flare seats only, so if those were leaking before you put the tape on the threads, they arent torqued tight enough (should be hand tight + 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the wrench), or something is wrong with the flare and seats of the fittings- just an FYI for the future. Do you happen to have pictures of the plug and adapter that are installed in the FPR before you put them in, or perhaps a part number for each? I have a hunch, but Id like to see that info before mentioning this further. I mailed you some orings, BTW!

 

[kt239]

I actually don't have a picture of that nor do I honestly know the part number. What I do know is it's the standard install kit from MAP. But if I'm reading correctly the oring should actually go inside the unit and not on the outside at all? Cause I didn't see a way to make them fit in there honestly. But thanks a million for the oring hookup you have no idea how much I appreciate that.

 

[kchaazz]

After looking closer at your picture of the fitting that leaked, and also looking up the specific install kit you have, I can clearly see where your problem came from, and I will try and get pictures and an explaination posted in your thread tonight if I get the chance.

 

[GSXTasy005]

Heres the pictures of the afpr...

The problematic piece

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I had this same kit. It will never work right. It will leak at the worst possible moment. Mine did and caught my engine bay on fire. Paying to fix your engine bay costs a whole lot more than just getting the Fuellab kit from the beginning. I'd recommend giving up on that kit and selling it to someone with a Honda, then buy the Fuellab kit.

EDIT: oh yeah, if you do sell it to someone with a Honda, make sure you give them the AEM sticker too. It adds +10HP to their car.

 

[lil corb]

I had this same kit. It will never work right. It will leak at the worst possible moment. Mine did and caught my engine bay on fire. Paying to fix your engine bay costs a whole lot more than just getting the Fuellab kit from the beginning. I'd recommend giving up on that kit and selling it to someone with a Honda, then buy the Fuellab kit.

EDIT: oh yeah, if you do sell it to someone with a Honda, make sure you give them the AEM sticker too. It adds +10HP to their car.

Are you just saying the AEM FPR is the problem or the whole MAP kit? I just ordered the Fuel lab Map FPR kit and going to be installing it tomorrow. I was going to add teflon tape for more security but now I'm up in the air if it needs it or not.

I don't want a fire starting!

 

[gofer]

You don't use teflon on flared (compression) AN fittings, only on NPT as someone mentioned above.

Wikipedia: Compression Fittings

Wikipedia: AN Thread

 

[lil corb]

You don't use teflon on flared (compression) AN fittings, only on NPT as someone mentioned above.

Wikipedia: Compression Fittings

Wikipedia: AN Thread

Just for peace of mind this kit Fuelab Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator with Install Kit (DSM) - Modern Automotive Performance is a flared a/n fitting which does not require any tape just o-rings correct? I'll be using the push lock version.

Thanks again Gofer!

 

[kt239]

Ahhh well I guess I'll be placing an order for a fuel lab setup cause I'm a tweak with things possibly going wrong. Peace of mind is a crucial thing and my peace of mind has been taken . But I don't understand why it just won't work proper I mean how they gonna sell a faulty product? And if it's faulty what aspect of it is faulty the regulator, the install kit or the install kit not being able to properly mate up with the regulator?

 

[kchaazz]

Ahhh well I guess I'll be placing an order for a fuel lab setup cause I'm a tweak with things possibly going wrong. Peace of mind is a crucial thing and my peace of mind has been taken . But I don't understand why it just won't work proper I mean how they gonna sell a faulty product? And if it's faulty what aspect of it is faulty the regulator, the install kit or the install kit not being able to properly mate up with the regulator?

The only problem fitting is that AN plug they put in the kit. It needs to be a boss plug because the hex on the AN plug is not large enough to support the oring. I will take pics for you to illustrate so you can get the -6 boss plug to replace the one thats leaking on your setup. I do this stuff for a living and assure you you can trust me on this. Dont worry about buying a new kit as the others have suggested I will show you the cheap easy and correct solution.

 

[kt239]

That's exactly what it is to! Any time that plug gets any type of tight the oring will deform.

 

[kchaazz]

That's exactly what it is to! Any time that plug gets any type of tight the oring will deform.

Yep, and here are some pics to show you. The boss plug is the one without the flare and clearly has more surface area on the thread side of the hex to support the oring, as can be seen in the pics. Just get a boss plug and youre golden I promise. I dont understand why the Company is sending AN plugs for this, it is unsafe and could seriously kill your arse if youre going 70 on the hwy and your engine bay catches fire.
Also, use the orings I mailed you on all the ports on the FPR because I do believe the ones youve got have too large of a cross section because the orings really should be pressing into the machined grooves of the ports and the nuts on the adapters should be flush with the regulator body when tightened. When you get the correct plug and remove the AN plug from your FPR, would you mind taking a pic of that port for me so I can verify the ports are machined correctly?

 

[lil corb]

Yep, and here are some pics to show you. The boss plug is the one without the flare and clearly has more surface area on the thread side of the hex to support the oring, as can be seen in the pics. Just get a boss plug and youre golden I promise. I dont understand why the Company is sending AN plugs for this, it is unsafe and could seriously kill your arse if youre going 70 on the hwy and your engine bay catches fire.
Also, use the orings I mailed you on all the ports on the FPR because I do believe the ones youve got have too large of a cross section because the orings really should be pressing into the machined grooves of the ports and the nuts on the adapters should be flush with the regulator body when tightened. When you get the correct plug and remove the AN plug from your FPR, would you mind taking a pic of that port for me so I can verify the ports are machined correctly?

Just installed my Fpr kit and I'm having the same problem with that AN fitting leaking. Were can I get a boss plug and what kind of O-ring should I get for it?

Thanks

 

[kchaazz]

This is the first one I found on the net. This is what should be included in the kit; perhaps someone makes one with a black anodized finish to match your kits. Russell 660270 Russell AN & NPT Plugs and Fitting Caps

Edit: I found the black one!! Also, these fittings are designed for the oring seal and come with the appropriate oring, so no worries there. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/110352/10002/-1

 

[lil corb]

beautiful!

Thanks for the info chaaz! Hopefully, vendors will start getting smart to this issue as said before.

 

[kchaazz]

beautiful!

Thanks for the info chaaz! Hopefully, vendors will start getting smart to this issue as said before.

Youre most welcome, sir. On a side note, perhaps you and KP can make a polite phone call to the vendor(s) and suggest they have a look at this thread to help influence their decision on the matter. I am happy this thread didnt become a huge flame war as some have in the past.