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FPR Problem

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Yeah I may give them a call to let them know cause I feel like this should never have been an issue. And obviously it will continue to be an issue unless someone does. I will defiantly snap a shot of that port for you when I get them in also.
 
Are you just saying the AEM FPR is the problem or the whole MAP kit? I just ordered the Fuel lab Map FPR kit and going to be installing it tomorrow. I was going to add teflon tape for more security but now I'm up in the air if it needs it or not.

I don't want a fire starting!

Sorry for the late response. My problem was with the AEM unit, the rest of the kit was fine. I have a Wally 255lph w/rewire. I set the base fuel pressure on my 2G at 43.5 PSI, and tightened the jam nut. Since there's no info on how tight to torque the jam nut, I did 15' lbs. I'm not sure which part actually failed. But about 200 miles later my engine bay was on fire right where the FPR was. After putting out the fire, I removed the AFPR, and tipped it upside down, only to watch fuel leak out from everywhere. I just chucked the POS in the trash and ordered the FuelLab kit. I have had no issues since.
 
Well instead of new thread I figure I would ask one more question here. It seems my Turbosmart gauge only wants to go a couple of threads before it gets really hard to screw it. Now I know can probably force it with a wrench but I fear breaking the FPR. So with that in mind, I still have a fuel LEAK coming from where the gauge screws in. If I wipe down everything I can see the front of the fpr where the gauge is getting saturating.

Should I keep going and tighten it down more with the fear of it breaking? Add teflon tape to the threads of the gauge (I don't even know if that's possible)?

Right now the gauge sticks out because of the number of turns it has but it still works.

Thanks
 
Well instead of new thread I figure I would ask one more question here. It seems my Turbosmart gauge only wants to go a couple of threads before it gets really hard to screw it. Now I know can probably force it with a wrench but I fear breaking the FPR. So with that in mind, I still have a fuel LEAK coming from where the gauge screws in. If I wipe down everything I can see the front of the fpr where the gauge is getting saturating.

Should I keep going and tighten it down more with the fear of it breaking? Add teflon tape to the threads of the gauge (I don't even know if that's possible)?

Right now the gauge sticks out because of the number of turns it has but it still works.

Thanks

Its pipe thread, and tapered, if you look at the end of the threads on the gauge compared to the threads closest to the gauge body, youll notice the taper. Its perfectly normal for NPT fittings to become tight after a few threads, just use teflon tape on the threads- wrap the tape onto the threads clockwise, then hand tighten the gauge as far as you can, then give it about 3/4 turn with a wrench and youre good. When you fire up the car, just check for leaks before driving :thumb:
 
Its pipe thread, and tapered, if you look at the end of the threads on the gauge compared to the threads closest to the gauge body, youll notice the taper. Its perfectly normal for NPT fittings to become tight after a few threads, just use teflon tape on the threads- wrap the tape onto the threads clockwise, then hand tighten the gauge as far as you can, then give it about 3/4 turn with a wrench and youre good. When you fire up the car, just check for leaks before driving :thumb:

Gotcha! So its perfectly normal to have a lot of threads sticking out. It will only go a couple of turns hand tighten?

Thanks
 
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