The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

FP DSM88HTA First Tune, still alot more to go.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sounds like its coming along nicely, I wouldn't worry about some of the comments. There's always somebody, who knows somebody who made more power on less boost with a smaller turbo, with one cylinder not running, etc, etc ROFL Add some timing in that tune & I'm sure things will really start to wake up :thumb:

Yep, I get the same stuff on every forum. It is cool, people have there opinion and I respect that. The my car runs 9's at this hp, is good to know also, because I know how far off pace I am. It also means that my car has a lot more ET and Trap speed in it.

I will continue to post all my good runs and bad runs, because I want people to see how my setup runs in the real world. I am not a pro racer, I am a weekend warrior.

Thanks everyone for the feedback so far.
 
Got mine in today. Can anybody figure out the dilemma i got on my hands now?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Boz what WG are you running or anybody else for that matter with the HTA88 turbo?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
So besides having to PAY to ship it back to FP or sell it is there any other option i can't think of right now?
 
You bought everything from FP? Did you tell them what you wanted or order online, etc? Did no one there think to ask, "why is he ordering a square flanged WG, while everything else on the order is vband?"


Word
You'd think the people at FP would realize that the WG wouldnt fit:confused:

If FP messed up, then they should pay the shipping cost to have it switched.
But if you order it wrong from the Web, then its only fair that you pay the shipping cost to have it switched.\
Either way.... give FP a call. I'm sure they'll switch it for you.
 
Nope I called and placed the order with FP on the phone. stated what i wanted and what i got was the list of what he stated i needed. he being aniel. but i talked to amber on the phone today and shipped it back to them out of my pocket, she is going to exchange it for the correct WG 44Vband
 
Yeah FP does a pretty good job.

Just out of curiosity though..... did the subject of shipping reimbursement come up?
Were you told that you had to pay for the extra shipping cost from their mistake? Or did you just not say anything about it, and decided to eat the shipping yourself?
 
It didn't come up once she said they were going to just exchange it now if they get the 41mm back next wednesday call me and be like you owe the difference then we will go from there. i can get it cheaper through someone else than get it through FP anyway. but since i had a big order figured just do it all at once.
 
I am running the Tial 44mm Vband version. I also have the FP o2 housing that bolts to the stock downpipe. I had all of this stuff on my fp3065. Did you get the Oil Drain Tube also? The stock one will not bolt up.
 
Yeah i got everything needed from FP. also have a set of gt30 series oil feed and return lines from the gt35r i was going to use also.
 
I would like to consider my 67mm on a 2.0L hits pretty hard, but it's a T4 setup with a nice manifold.

From my dyno graph at 31-32psi, I go from 220ishTQ@4200 to 460TQ@4900 (roughly) Also 180HP at 4200, 450@ 4900rpms (roughly).

The FP88HTA should be a badass turbo, but without a doubt put it in a T4 housing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hey Rob! This dino sheet looks a bit strange. It is the only one I 've seen where HP and TQ curves do not cross at 5252 RPM. Is the chart miscalibrated? May be that's partially the reason for inflated spool numbers, although it would show it spool even faster then if the chart is shifted to the left. I dunno, I 'm confused on this one. Mike (diambo) if you know, please shed some light as well. Thanks and sorry for off topic.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
The top of the graph is 461 ft-lb for torque and 570 for hp. So they do cross and the numbers are right, it's just that the torque graph is scaled different (but the numbers still match up if you trace them to the left)
 
The top of the graph is 461 ft-lb for torque and 570 for hp. So they do cross and the numbers are right, it's just that the torque graph is scaled different (but the numbers still match up if you trace them to the left)

I 'm not questioning the numbers and I see that they cross, however as I said they do not cross at 5252RPM (but rather 6400) and that is the point where they are supposed to do that. Can you elaborate a bit on the TQ graph being scaled differently. Thanks.
 
As Zenja pointed out already, the HP and TQ are on different scales, no way they would line up. Look at HP at 5250 and TQ at 5250, they are actually the same (~460), despite the fact that the curves don't cross. This is extremely common. I always have my dyno operator rescale HP and TQ so I don't have to deal with this later on. :)
 
I got my FP setup all mocked up planning on getting it on the car this coming week, but still got a lil ways to go to have the newly acquired 91 talon awd back and running on stock block. still waiting on 2.3l to be finished.
 
Stock Water Suply and Return lines. You will have to bend them and jimmy them into place, but be careful they are thin and will bust open on you if you are not careful. I had to use some new tubing for the bit between the Thermostat Housing and the Suply line.

For the Oil Lines I have the FP Black Suply line and the FP Blue Return Line.

I had to grind the shit out of the front motor mount bracket so that the oil return line could clear.

Good luck shoot some pics of your setup.
 
Stock Water Suply and Return lines. You will have to bend them and jimmy them into place, but be careful they are thin and will bust open on you if you are not careful. I had to use some new tubing for the bit between the Thermostat Housing and the Suply line.

For the Oil Lines I have the FP Black Suply line and the FP Blue Return Line.

I had to grind the shit out of the front motor mount bracket so that the oil return line could clear.

Good luck shoot some pics of your setup.


I was afriad you'd say that LOL.


I'm trying to do this myself, key word being trying but theres alot thats a little over my head but easy to others.

Feedline from FP (longer piece)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Obviously the return line
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


What i got on the car so far.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
coupler size coming off the turbo 2.5"? i haven't measured looking for a gimme haha.
 
Yep 2.5 on the turbo.

Make sure you have the oil feed restrictor from FP, or make you own. You dont want to blow your turbo because of a 50 dollar part. Also, the feed restrictor has a filter in it so if you spin a bearing it will not shoot metal into your turbo keeping it safe.

I would take the turbo off the car and put the coolant lines on outside the car, it will be easier. I had to do a lot of bending and moving around to get them in place. It took me like an hour with the motor and turbo out of the car to set them up correctly. As you are bending the return line, you are going to need to have the oil return line in place also, because it will run right past it.

I will see if I can get some up close pics of how mine work, however it will be pretty damn hard because everything is soo dman close.

Also did you grind downt he motor mount so that the oil return line would clear? You should check that before going any further. Also my car is GVR4 so it might be a little different, not 100% sure.

Good luck, let us know how the progress is going.
 
I got the brand new oem water lines in the other day and tried to put them on with turbo on the car LOL yeah def. wasn't happening. started to get annoyed so i stopped but i'm off sat-wed so i may try again who knows.

oil return line there needs to be a paper gasket between the turbo and the line itself correct?
 
Yep 2.5 on the turbo.

Make sure you have the oil feed restrictor from FP, or make you own. You dont want to blow your turbo because of a 50 dollar part. Also, the feed restrictor has a filter in it so if you spin a bearing it will not shoot metal into your turbo keeping it safe.

Well it won't ingest gunk into your turbo, but check it from time to time because if that screen gets clogged with gunk then your turbo's run dry instead of contaminated, but it's dead all the same.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top