FML Broken Bolt Help

[DearestNameless]

Well I was working on changing the balance belt tonight and I had the torque wrench set and was cranking on the balance belt idler and it snapped the bolt off deeper then flush with the surface. How do you suggest I get this out? How critical is it that it comes out perfect? Where do I even get a replacement bolt? Anything you can tell me to help with my situation would be great, other then I'm screwed and to set it on fire. Sounds like a nice choice though.

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THIS IS NOT MY CAR

 

[casuprock]

That's tough...

Get a carbide center drill. Get a carbide left handed jobber drill bit of slightly smaller diameter than the bolt. Get a HSS tap for the same bolt/thread size of the broken bolt. I'm not sure what size that particular bolt is, maybe someone can help there.

Start the center drill to make an indentation. Start the left handed drill bit on-center. Slowly drill into the broken bolt until you have reached a satisfactory blind depth (don't have to go all the way through the broken bolt). After you have the hole drilled, use the tap to start removing the rest of the broken bolt material from the existing threads. Be very slow tapping as you don't want to have a broken tap in there too. Use lots of tapping oil like tap magic or a copper based lubricant. Back the tap off every revolution to clear the chip load.

I wouldn't suggest using a torch to heat up the area around the bolt, in this area of your engine where you don't want to anneal the material or change metal properties. Sometimes you can bring a metal to it's curie temperature and crack bolts that way, but that's usually for metals you don't care about annealing or heat affecting.

Good luck.

 

[doubleclutch99]

if the engine is out of the car then it should be straight forward . get an eazy out and a small drill bit and drill it deep enough to get the eazy out in it and spin it out . and its kinda critical you get it out ### if that tensioner spins sideways while the engine is running it can definetly be catastrophic. i hope this helps.

 

[casuprock]

You can get all the removal tools (carbide drills/tap) and a replacement bolt from mcmaster carr... they ship really quick.

Solid carbide drill- bolts are hardened steel and HSS drills might walk or dull out quickly.

 

[JusMX141]

Damn right it's not your car....that's my buddy Jeff's car circa 2006-2007. What fun times leaky cam seals can provide.

If the bolt head is broken off there shouldn't be much holding the threads in place. A left-handed drill bit should walk it right out.

 

[DearestNameless]

Damn right it's not your car....that's my buddy Jeff's car circa 2006-2007. What fun times leaky cam seals can provide.

If the bolt head is broken off there shouldn't be much holding the threads in place. A left-handed drill bit should walk it right out.

Well if you know what bolt I'm talking about it has a head then a long smooth shaft then the threads hit and being me it snapped off at like the first round of thread. So the whole thing is damn near in there thread wise. The engine is still in the car and it is in a position the car can't be moved. So it has to be able to be done while on the ground. Are EZ Outs the best thing to use. That bolt is so small I'm afraid there isn't something small enough to fit it. It is a 12mm bot BTW. More help would be fantastic. If anyone is local and thinks they can do it I would happily pay them to do it or to finish the entire timing belt. The car needs to be done ASAP. HELP!

EDIT:

It looks something like this. The smooth surface is where the idler would ride and it snapped after the start of the threads which is deeper then the surface, so no pliers can reach. (No hole in the bolt either OFC)

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[casuprock]

I'd help you but I'm in New Hampshire.

 

[JusMX141]

Well if you know what bolt I'm talking about it has a head then a long smooth shaft then the threads hit and being me it snapped off at like the first round of thread. So the whole thing is damn near in there thread wise.

I know what bolt you're talking about, and like I said once the head of the bolt is removed there is no tension at all on the threads....so unless you used Loctite or cross-threaded the bolt while installing it, the threaded portion should walk right out with a left-handed bit.

That bolt is so small I'm afraid there isn't something small enough to fit it.

Go to Lowes and grab a center punch, as well as an assortment of small left-handed bits starting around 1/8" and going up to 1/4" or so.

It is a 12mm bolt BTW.

No, it's an 8mm x 1.25 bolt.

 

[Talon tsi PR]

I know what bolt you're talking about, and like I said once the head of the bolt is removed there is no tension at all on the threads....so unless you used Loctite or cross-threaded the bolt while installing it, the threaded portion should walk right out with a left-handed bit.


Go to Lowes and grab a center punch, as well as an assortment of small left-handed bits starting around 1/8" and going up to 1/4" or so.


No, it's an 8mm x 1.25 bolt.

Thats right 12mm is the size of the head of the bolt the actual size/thread is 8mm x 1.25

 

[90gst_sean]

The post above has all the info you need for the moment.

So, that being said, I'll give you a few words of encouragement: These things happen; broken bolts happen when working on cars. The good news is, since these things are common, there are proven methods and special tools/techniques to fixing them when they do break. You're not the first person to break a bolt and wont be the last; I assure you.

After you've done all you're vehicle maintenance and have owned your dsm for a wile this will be less of an occurrence. Using a torque wrench and penetrating lube when working with bolts will go a long way, too.

Go slow, take your time getting the right tools, and don't be afraid to get professional help. (understanding that you're stuck at the moment) Oh, and a word of advice from personal experiance... don't ask Joe-Blow at the local gas-and-go to drill and re-thread you parts... take it to a machine-shop. If you're going to pay someone to do the work, pay them to do it with nice $$ tools and not a hand held drill. I'm still suffering that mistake!

Like the above poster said, there is a good chance that the bolt is just sitting in the hole. I know it sounds strange that a bolt that was stuck well enough to break off half way down the hole could be now just sitting in there, but it happens! A LEFT turning drill bit will start to drill into the broken bolt, and as it does this, it will put left-hand twisting pressure - possible turning the bolt out easily.

AFTER THOUGHT

-- the hole you drill MUST be straight down the center of the broken bolt.

-- use a corded power drill if you chose to use a drill.

-- MAKE SURE it's a left hand bit you're using and that you are turning the drill to the left as you drill the hole.

-- If you have the ability to clamp or support your drill so it is assured to drill straight and centered, this would be a great help!!

-- EZ outs are OK to have in your tool box, but don't work for every broken bolt. In fact they only work for about half IMO. I don't use EZ outs; I keep a set of Craftsmen (EZ out type) tools. The problem with these tools is that some times they are too short to reach down into a bolt hole that has broken off deep. Keep this in mind.

If you have the option to remove the part, or parts, consider doing so. If at any time you feel you're getting in over your head or causing damage - pull the part and take it to a machine shop! Don't drill into the side of a costly part with an off center hole, this can cause more problems... however, it too can be fixed for the right price but will HAVE to be removed from the car.

FYI, Turbo/Exhaust bolts like to break. Use lots of lube (anti-seize and penetration oil) and purchase new ones every few years (60K mile max on exhaust bolts from cylinder-head to Down-pipe. IMO).

 

[DearestNameless]

Thanks for all the great info and encouragement. I found out that I wasn't using the torque wrench properly. Lesson learned. I guess I was using a wrench that started at 20. It looked like it went below it and t did but I guess that still means 20? Anyhow I will try to get some pictures and post my results when I find out to help future failures.