Broken header bolt HELP

[blackhawk2k7]

Since ive had my car my passenger side header bolt has had its head sheered, i was wondering, what steps should i take to fix it and or remove it, and btw there is enough of the broken bolt sticking through to be flush with the outside of the header... how do i remove and or fix it? i really need help on this one

 

[tqmx1]

Pull the header all the way off then with a good pair of vice grips grab the shaft and spin it out. Now if it was broke flush with the head thats another story!

 

[blackhawk2k7]

ok... ill see if that works

 

[sschambers]

I've never had any luck with vise grips on a broken bolt, although you can try it. I'd put more time into it, get an Easy-Out kit and go that route. You just get a drill, get a small drill bit and drill a hole through the center of the broken stud. Get the hole nice and deep, and be as straight as possible. Then just use the easy-out tool to un-thread it. If you do decide to give this a shot, be careful with that drill...Because you are working on the head .

 

[Ahsieh2]

If the bolt is long enough you can remove the header, then put a nut on the remaining part of the bolt backwards, then put one on forwards so that they are touching flat end to flat end. then take a wrench and put it on the inner nut and crank away. The second nut should keep the inner one from coming off thus rotating the bolt. If this doesn't work then I recommend an easy-out but you likely won't have enough room in the engine bay to fit a drill to use it. Well, good luck.

 

[twicks69]

If the stud is still managable when the manifold is removed, use the proper tool. They make metric stud remover sockets for a reason.

I already price searched for you as well: Socket Set, Stud Puller, Metric 4 Piece (Assenmacher: model 201)


If it is un managable with the socket, then you will need to drill and extract the stud utilizing a drill or angle drill, with the proper socket and bolt extraction tool (they are really fragile and this should be the last resort).

Here is a good link to a page describing options for bolt extraction:

The Art of Extraction

If possible, welding on a nut will work the next best after the stud removal tool that I listed above.

Just don't break an extractor in the broken stud -- that will seriously suck, and you will need to machine out the broken stud and broken extractor if that happens.

 

[tqmx1]

The Art of Extraction[/url]

.

That is well worth reasing by anyone and everyone.

Thanks for the link!

 

[blackhawk2k7]

because i have about half an inch or more sticking out of the block when the headers are off, ill try the double nut extraction technique...

 

[twicks69]

because i have about half an inch or more sticking out of the block when the headers are off, ill try the double nut extraction technique...

Use a die and clean up the threads before you try and do the two-nut routine. Seriously, the stud removing sockets I mentioned and gave the link to, are excellent tools to have and will be used regularly for removing manifold studs. They are worth the investment.

 

[PIMking]

I have one of these too. It broke even with the stock manifold so when the FP manifold gets here im going to take the stocker off and do a double nut routine and get it out.

Im going to get me some SS bolts to put in it.

 

[dannyd97gst]

Do not use an easy out unless you want to drive around like it is now, jk. This happened to me and I actually broke the extractor bit in the stud. If this happens to you good luck b/c extractor bits are very hard metal and nearly impossible to drill out. I would recommed using every other technique imaginable first before using an easy out. Maybe you'll be ok, I always have a worst case cenario happen to me.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It's not broken flush with the head, so you'll probably have no problems, but for anyone reading this who does have one broken flush:

1) Take some rags, or masking tape and block the exhaust runner.
2) Use a mig welder, and weld a little clump of bead onto the end of the stud (take your time and weld in short bursts, allowing the bead to cool enough between bursts so it doesn't drip or sag)
3) Once there's enough weld on the end of your broken stud, grab the still hot stud with vise grips and unscrew it.

I do this all the time, and it works every time. If you have something really stuck, like heavilly corroded transmision case bolts, you can set a nut over the end of the broken bolt, and fill in the middle untill you have a bolt with a head again. The weld doesn't stick to the aluminum, and even if you are a little sloppy, it only harms the very first thread, but all the inner threads are left unharmed.

 

[90 Talon AWD]

The one thing that i have always done was take a drill and drill bit and drill straight into the stud and use a heli coil they work great for me but make shore you drill straight. good luck

 

[vanilla gorilla]

I reaplaced all the studs in my head. I put a vise grip on each one and they easily twisted out. I replaced them with ARP ss studs.

 

[brownfinger]

I LOVE the welding trick! I call it "My ancient Chinese secret". It's never let me down. It works everytime, even when you'd swear nothing's gonna get that SOB out of there. Heating the fastener that quickly is like hitting it with some kind of super-hammer. I think the metal changes size and shape so fast that it breaks the bond formed by the corrosion between the two parts. Plus, you can weld on a 22mm lug-nut to grab it by. You know that isn't going to round-off.