ECMlink First Tuning Log

[cabot2g]

Trying to get the idle dialed in...

 

[Chicken Patty]

Trying to get the idle dialed in...

Seems fine. MAF Comp is a bit low on idle but the rest of the log itself looks good.

 

[cabot2g]

Went out to log a cruise a couple of days ago and when I went to make a pull the car started to break up and then went to missing. Bring the car home and pull the plugs, I had two plugs with the electrode insulator cracked.

Replaced with new plugs and took it out today.

I started the log from idle, let it warm up. Tried to adjust the MAF and trims for idle.

Got it lined out to where it would idle decent and took it out for a cruise. The cruise seemed good so I tried to make a couple of pulls. I start getting knock fairly fast so I got back out of it.

Im new at tuning and need all the help I can get.

Thanks!

 

[jjw205]

Just a little side note, on your "Dash" tab, I would lower the "Knock CEL" from 5° down to 2° or 3°. You don't want 4° of knock retard during a pull and not know about it.

 

[cabot2g]

I will change it now. Im getting bad knock when I try to pull.

I need help with the maps for pulls.

 

[cabot2g]

Seems fine. MAF Comp is a bit low on idle but the rest of the log itself looks good.

Is there anything I can do for the MAF comp to keep it from being so low?

 

[Chicken Patty]

I will change it now. Im getting bad knock when I try to pull.

I need help with the maps for pulls.

Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and feed him for a life time. Read this again and again and again and start little by little. You basically have done no tuning whatsoever and want to start doing pulls. You need to set stuff up first "conservatively" and then start ramping up from there. If the Wideband is reading correctly in LINK, the car is seriously lean under boost thus one of the reasons why you are knocking. As far as the CEL coming on for knock, what they recommended to you about setting it to 2 or 3 degrees is fine, but personally your not supposed to have any knock so I set mine at 1º. Just me though.

Read this man and don't get ahead of yourself. Little by little, patience is key:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/262460-basic-dsmlink-tuning-guide.html

Is there anything I can do for the MAF comp to keep it from being so low?

Yes, you can raise the sliders for the area it used on idle. That'll bring your AirFlowPerRev up some. If the fuel trims are off you can adjust injector dead time to bring them back close to zero.

 

[cabot2g]

Thanks!

I will read and study this and go from there. Thanks for your help !!!

 

[Chicken Patty]

Thanks!

I will read and study this and go from there. Thanks for your help !!!

Yeah no problem man. If you have any questions post up.

 

[cabot2g]

I will be posting up...

When I slide the MafAdjust up it really raises the AirFlowPerRev above .30

Am I not suppose to try and keep it around .25 or do I just adjust the FT to keep it around 1. + or -

 

[Chicken Patty]

I will be posting up...

When I slide the MafAdjust up it really raises the AirFlowPerRev above .30

Am I not suppose to try and keep it around .25 or do I just adjust the FT to keep it around 1. + or -

Yeah just adjust the MAF COMP sliders till it hits around .025 GM/rev then if you need to zero out the fuel trims just adjust deadtime.

 

[cabot2g]

Okay that's what I have been working on. At the moment I have a AEM wideband and I really don't like it. I will be switching to a MTX L soon.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Okay that's what I have been working on. At the moment I have a AEM wideband and I really don't like it. I will be switching to a MTX L soon.

What don't you like about it and how was that relevant to the last post?

 

[cabot2g]

Wasn't really relevant just a vent. It's working better today, think I had it set up wrong. It was logging different than what the gauge was showing.

I'm walking through the link you provided. Headed to homedepot for blt parts. My previous blt is too small.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Wasn't really relevant just a vent. It's working better today, think I had it set up wrong. It was logging different than what the gauge was showing.

I'm walking through the link you provided. Headed to homedepot for blt parts. My previous blt is too small.

For the AEM there are different sensors you can select, just try each one until it matches the gauge. If not it has to be setup manually.

 

[boost97gst]

Wasn't really relevant just a vent. It's working better today, think I had it set up wrong. It was logging different than what the gauge was showing.

I'm walking through the link you provided. Headed to homedepot for blt parts. My previous blt is too small.

Edit, nevermind, i looked at your profile which said lc1 wb. didnt notice its now an AEM. Those are notoriously difficult to line up right.


i checked your second idle log and it looks good. Closed loop cycling, good afr for idle, airflow good. But your afrest and actual(what you have labeled as "wb r1"?) are off. The only way to get them to line up is moving your mafcomp, which will move you airflowperrev which will make you adjust deadtime...... see . I would say youre pretty good at idle. Its nice n steady as it should be with a car with minimal mods. I pay more mind to combinedft in closed loop then i look for my afrest to match my wideband in open loop(boost or high throttle). That works.

in the cruise log, why the sudden drop in coolant temp? something isnt right. You may have air pockets in your system. It all the way down to the 160s which is too low. Minimum 180 op temp for ecu to be in normal mode and not to mention everything runs better at that temp.

 

[cabot2g]

I apologize. This is my sons car. Ill get the mods listed. It's fairly heavily modified.

 

[cabot2g]

Bolt-on Modifications:
FP green, FP turbo manifold,Greddy front mount/piping/bov,3" Megan racing turbo back exhaust, cold air intake, k&n filter, hard ic piping, act 2100 fidanza flywheel, 550 Injectors, aeromotive fpr, b&m short throw,walbro 255.

Engine Management:
dsm-link v3, greddy profec b, greddy oil press/boost gauge,aem wideband.

Engine Internals:
arias forged pistons, eagle rods hks 264/272 cams ported head w/ swirl polished ss valves, arp rod/main/head studs, cometic hg, bse kit.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Edit, nevermind, i looked at your profile which said lc1 wb. didnt notice its now an AEM. Those are notoriously difficult to line up right.


i checked your second idle log and it looks good. Closed loop cycling, good afr for idle, airflow good. But your afrest and actual(what you have labeled as "wb r1"?) are off. The only way to get them to line up is moving your mafcomp, which will move you airflowperrev which will make you adjust deadtime...... see . I would say youre pretty good at idle. Its nice n steady as it should be with a car with minimal mods. I pay more mind to combinedft in closed loop then i look for my afrest to match my wideband in open loop(boost or high throttle). That works.

in the cruise log, why the sudden drop in coolant temp? something isnt right. You may have air pockets in your system. It all the way down to the 160s which is too low. Minimum 180 op temp for ecu to be in normal mode and not to mention everything runs better at that temp.

Well he did say his AEM is not reading the same on the logs as in the gauge so that might be the discrepancy you see.

 

[boost97gst]

Difference between afrest and WB are quite different than WB not agreeing with the actual gauge.
I have that particular problem out of nowhere on my lc1 now. Gauge reads 1 point leaner than link. Ive learned through pulls that link is accurate, the gauge is not. Thats a whole nother story.
I still cant ignore the coolant drop, weird

 

[cabot2g]

I think my son may have turned the fans on at one point during the cruise.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Difference between afrest and WB are quite different than WB not agreeing with the actual gauge.
I have that particular problem out of nowhere on my lc1 now. Gauge reads 1 point leaner than link. Ive learned through pulls that link is accurate, the gauge is not. Thats a whole nother story.
I still cant ignore the coolant drop, weird

Not sure what your case may be, but how would LINK be accurate and not the gauge? Not sure if I'm following you here...

 

[boost97gst]

I verified that both 5vdc signals are completely in sync. With an O scope. so theres no question that both the guage and the ecu(link) are seeing the exact same voltage at the exact same time. I would have been knocking like crazy at 25psi had the gauge been right. Im not too worried about it. Its WAY more important that link be reading precisely. The gauge is good for showing you when shit hits the fan real quick, then again, my cel would be lit from knock....

Sorry OP, off topic, just thought id address the above question.

 

[cabot2g]

It's fine. I just want to know if my log or gage is right. If I know the log is correct I don't care as much if the gauge is off a little.

 

[cabot2g]

Chicken patty. I see you are using a AEM wb. What have you done to make sure your getting the correct log reading.

I also have a Greedy boost gauge that is suppose to log boost but I can't get it to log at all.


I'm going to fix the leaks I found with the BLT and going to swap to a set of 880 injectors and get them dialed in for idle.
I checked the base timing and its 5*

Compression on all 4 cylinders is 180 psi.