ECMlink first time playing with ecmlink, also first run of the build.

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i got the car running with a stock 1g mafs, a friend let me borrow it and needed it back. so now all i have is the map for sd, i am also running an s90 throttle body and im not sure if i did it wrong , but im not getting any tps signal ( ecmlink shows 0% ) well, anyways i was realllly hoping somebody could share their table with me to get this car running , i know every car is different and all but i can fine tune it myself. or maybe i am doing something else wrong i dont know,

i can get the car to start and barely idle but as soon as i hit the gas it dies. ive tried adjusting the fuel and air sliders and the same thing occurs. i have the sensor set up as speed density i have airflow smoothing turned off, and i set the signal wire to baro i have a plug and play harness from ecmlink, i assume thats the wire they use? either way the log shows it reading airflow. i dont get it

edit : didnt set pin assignments, had coolant temps locked for some reason, had the wrong map sensor check ( gm 3 bar ). starts and rev's no problem. ( for the time being )

 

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well finally got the car going, after idling checking everything over fixing what i found and what not and a few cruises, i set the car to straight wastegate pressure which is i think 7 psi maybe 9 im not sure, and did a small second gear pull ( brakes are in dire need of replacing didnt want to risk 100+mph ) and this is what ive got.

i did NOT check base timing, i forgot so that could be off, take a look at my settings they could be wrong as well. the estAFratio is very close i believe, its hard to stare at it while driving but i did glance and see 10.4:1 which is obviously too rich, i dropped my boost gauge a while ago and it reads 5 inHG when the car is off but seems to work fine under boost but it shows 7 psi so it may or may not be off. also int temps are stuck at 77* which i know will affect sd's performance not sure why , maybe i did something wrong?

is this not posted in the right location?

 

[doubleclutch99]

First fix your brakes. no point in going fast if you can't stop. second check and or fix your base timing. and third get a new boost gage. i understand you might be excited to learn but always remember when tuning , garbage in equals garbage out. also your coolant temp is fairly high and will affect your tune. you might want to look into that issue.

 

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i have all new pads and rotors at the shop waiting, i will check the timing tomorrow ( awesome how dsmlink can ground for you ) and im waiting on this install kit to get here for my fans, dont have any currently.

i also checked the boost reading with another gauge and they seem to be the same.

any clue why my iat's dont change?

 

[doubleclutch99]

You should go to your ecu inputs page in the log and select the lock iat and baro pressure. your not running the stock maf so those have to be locked. it's set at 77 degrees so the ecu see's a safe number and doesn't throw a check engine light.
if you want to see the actual intake temp you'll have to capture gm iat and then put it in the display.

 

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But my speed density is running off the baro input and iat "should" be running off the intake temp, wouldn't that affect this? I assigned those pins to their corresponding locations unless I did it wrong, you should be able to pull it open and see

I did not know about logging Gm iat specificly so thanks for that info!

 

[gofer]

Yikes! Too much not done right here that you need to start from the beginning. Theres a reason why babies don't start running (WOT) as soon as they're born, they learn to crawl (idle) first and then walk (cruise). You've got to tune your car's idle and then cruise/part throttle, once that's finished then you can move on to doing WOT 3rd gear pulls.

First and foremost, answer these questions in your next post as well as including a idle log of your car warmed up to 180*+ coolant temps. Speaking of coolant temps, the 226* temps in your log is WAY too hot for normal operation. Once we get this idle/cruise tuning done you'll still need to tackle those high CT's before we move onto WOT.

1. What type of MAP sensor do you have and where is it wired in?
2. What type of IAT sensor do you have and where is it wired in?
3. What type of Wideband do you have and where is it wired in?

If you could tell me the exact wire (color/connector/ECU pin) I could help you a lot better. If you bought an ECMLink SD cable let me know, I still need to know where you tapped into the ECU to run/log your Wideband though. Looking at your log it says you've got it wired into the front o2 location, I'm assuming you CUT and wired into pin 4 at the ECU. 1g ECU Pinout If thats the case you've still got a few more changes that need to be made to get the narrowband simulation to work correctly. Unfortunately, its not as easy as marking a few checks in the box and moving on.

Post an idle log of the car warm and answer the above questions the best you can, then I can help you a bit better.

 

[compression]

Yikes! Too much not done right here that you need to start from the beginning. Theres a reason why babies don't start running (WOT) as soon as they're born, they learn to crawl (idle) first and then walk (cruise). You've got to tune your car's idle and then cruise/part throttle, once that's finished then you can move on to doing WOT 3rd gear pulls.

First and foremost, answer these questions in your next post as well as including a idle log of your car warmed up to 180*+ coolant temps. Speaking of coolant temps, the 226* temps in your log is WAY too hot for normal operation. Once we get this idle/cruise tuning done you'll still need to tackle those high CT's before we move onto WOT.

1. What type of MAP sensor do you have and where is it wired in?
2. What type of IAT sensor do you have and where is it wired in?
3. What type of Wideband do you have and where is it wired in?

If you could tell me the exact wire (color/connector/ECU pin) I could help you a lot better. If you bought an ECMLink SD cable let me know, I still need to know where you tapped into the ECU to run/log your Wideband though. Looking at your log it says you've got it wired into the front o2 location, I'm assuming you CUT and wired into pin 4 at the ECU. 1g ECU Pinout If thats the case you've still got a few more changes that need to be made to get the narrowband simulation to work correctly. Unfortunately, its not as easy as marking a few checks in the box and moving on.

Post an idle log of the car warm and answer the above questions the best you can, then I can help you a bit better.

wow, thanks for the response! i needed brakes bad, i have since had new brakes installed also managed to spot a nice size leak from my transfer case, so when i repair that i will get some more logs.

I used the white wire from my aem wb (uego) and soldered it to pin 4 (also a white wire) , i did not cut the wire in half, but i dont have anything plugged in the other end not sure if that matters. i also assigned the pin but forgot to save it

The car did idle for about 5 minutes i tried playing with the global fuel a tad bit here and there to try and dial in my idle. (fuel pressure changes) i really do need a cruise log, and maybe i was just too excited to care, but my car has a about 18" of exhaust , 2 year out of date tag and no hood/bumper (not to mention about 3 years ago it was spray painted black with a wide pink stripe down it) . so it was hard for me to do any cruising. the idea was to take it around the block a few times and bring it back and check for leaks and what not i guess i just couldn't resist.

- omni power 4 bar , assigned to baro
- gm iat, assigned to intake temp
- aem uego , assigned to front o2 ( i think the only one that doesnt require a buffer?)
- ecmlink sd cable

the coolant temps were high i had just been idling for a minute or two without a fan. (i now have a slim-fan installed)

and i had a really hard time getting the car to idle with the s90 throttle body and since i am working alone i couldn't start the car and run to the engine bay quick enough to grab the throttle to make it idle so i could adjust it, so the only log i have of idle is with free revs to make it idle, coolant temp gauge wasnt plugged in i dont think but autometer gauge was near 180 for some reason i have the gauge that goes to 280 so from 180 down is in TINY increments.

 

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Well i fixed my oil leak... well i tried and failed but anyways slow leak so i could get an idle log i notice my airflowperrev is high how do you adjust this on SD? is that in the ve table?

here is the idle log you asked for gofer! and i appreciate your help alot!

 

[gofer]

You need to adjust your TPS to 0.63v and your AEM UEGO gauge isn't logging accurately, try changing the different type of WB you select in ECU Inputs.

 

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oh, i will try the other wideband settings and see which is closer, ive read R1 is the closest for most. and im not sure what you mean about adjust your tps to .63 volts. I can see its at .10 is this just as simple as adjusting biss screw?

 

[gofer]

If the R1 isn't close you'll have to use LinearWB and adjust the settings to get it to log accurately, here is the how-to from the Wiki. ---> AEM WB [ECMTuning - Wiki] and here is how you'd make the adjustments if you use the LinearWB sensor. ---> Linear Items [ECMTuning - Wiki]

The TPS is adjusted by loosening the (2) 8mm bolts holding it to the TB and turning it clockwise/counter clockwise to get it to the right voltage, which is 0.63v.

 

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oh ok, simple enough. thanks! i will get an updated log later today, any other mechanical adjustments you see i need while i am under the hood?

 

[gofer]

You'll have to include ISCPosition and LrndIdleAdjust to your captured values, that way I can see if your BISS needs adjustment or not.

 

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ok, i just did another long idle. and the tps didnt move at all, getting a tps circuit malfunction code. it was working fine a few days ago. maybe bad tps? or my 90 to 91-94 tps plug job isnt correct.

and obviously moving the tps back and forth changed nothing because of this i assume.

also tried all of the widebands (at idle) none came close. 9.5- compared to 14.7-15.2 on the guage. the afratioest is pretty close.

and i REALLY need a timing light because im sure thats off as well.

 

[gofer]

Check the wiring to the TPS and follow the LinearWB settings to get it logging correctly using that write-up.

 

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Alright, il check it when i get off of work in 8 hours. The linear wideband writeup make my head hurt =0 .

I am using an s90 throttle body , I have no fiav or Isc just a plain throttle body. So would capturing those things even benefit me? Or could you tell by what the ecu is "trying" to do with the isc.?

Well when i got home i checked the wiring, then i checked the wiring, and also checked the wiring. it is correct i am certain now =P. however i do believe i have a bad tps. friend is going to test it out for me and i will know tomorrow. It idles nice and smooth it seems, just the tps issue is killing me. as soon as i get a new one i will be able to attend to some of the other issues i have,

 

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*sigh* ok well i guess i didnt check the wiring enough, because the pin in the ecu harness was hanging out of it.
<a href="http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0220.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0220.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

so after cutting the air flow sensor wire which is also green and white , on accident and having to solder it back together. i found this and corrected it.

tps is adjusted to .63 volts and functions flawlessly! however i didn't get to fire it up due to wife and baby sleeping , but i did buy a timing light today so i will be checking that tomorrow. as well as getting the wideband to log accurately ( or try ).

on a side note, i had help and my buddy put the tps sensor in backwards, not sure if it matters on s90 throttle bodies because the voltage goes up from .63 -5.00 and throttle % from 0-100%

on another side note! since i have the map sensor assigned to the ecu , will that tell me the exact boost i am running? and log it accordingly?

 

[gofer]

Glad you took the initiative to dig into the ECU harness instead of throwing in the towel on the TPS issue, its always something simple you just have to look hard enough. Nice work!

The MAP sensor, also known as Manifold Absolute Pressure, will log (assuming its wired correctly) the exact (absolute) pressure thats in the manifold, whether its vacuum or boost. Same goes for the IAT sensor, it will log the temperature of the air entering the manifold.

TPSVolt should be 0.63v - 5.00v and ThrottlePos should be 0% - 100%, perfect.

 

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Better be wired correctly I Payed for the plug and play cable Haha. So then I don't need to log boost est. That's awesome, i just need to get my wideband logging correctly. I have a trick up my sleeve, I was changed the gauge type in the ecu input but I wasn't changed the captured/ displayed value to match . It's not that far of a drive you should come take a Florida vacation and get this thing dialed in for me ! Haha

 

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so, i was trying to use different wideband settings, and the one its on currently is super close on wot pulls, but the cruise and idle its WAYYY off. wot gauge was reading 11.5-11.8:1 and link reads about 11.7:1

not sure if i should trust that enough or not. and with speed density what is the appropriate way to richen up the tune? the fuel sliders, the target afratio map, the ve table? im not really sure. i did however get my timing dialed in and right around 5500 the timing is set really high i want to say 22* or something? i was getting small knock there, thats also about when full boost hits. so i just knocked the timing down a couple *'s there and it stopped knocking. i will get a log today hopefully, i just put a tag on the car.

 

[Calan]

so, i was trying to use different wideband settings, and the one its on currently is super close on wot pulls, but the cruise and idle its WAYYY off. wot gauge was reading 11.5-11.8:1 and link reads about 11.7:1 ... not sure if i should trust that enough or not.

No; it needs to be accurate throughout the range, especially if you are using NB simulation in closed loop.

right around 5500 the timing is set really high i want to say 22* or something?

That is most likely way too much timing for that RPM area if you are talking about WOT (or a load factor above 1.5 or so).

...with speed density what is the appropriate way to richen up the tune? the fuel sliders, the target afratio map, the ve table?

The fuel sliders are pretty much obsolete in version 3. To richen up the tune, you change the target AFR values in the DA table. BUT... you first have to calibrate your airflow so that you can hit those targets reliably, which involves adjusting the VE table.

The best thing for you to do at this point is some reading. Start here:

start [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[compression]

No; it needs to be accurate throughout the range, especially if you are using NB simulation in closed loop.



That is most likely way too much timing for that RPM area if you are talking about WOT (or a load factor above 1.5 or so).



The fuel sliders are pretty much obsolete in version 3. To richen up the tune, you change the target AFR values in the DA table. BUT... you first have to calibrate your airflow so that you can hit those targets reliably, which involves adjusting the VE table.

The best thing for you to do at this point is some reading. Start here:

start [ECMTuning - wiki]

ok , i will just need to get the linear thing set up i suppose.

i am pretty sure that was the stock timing map if im not mistaken.

how do i know which way to adjust the ve table? i do not have a stock mafs, do i just use the fuel trims to give recommendations? i suppose the ve does need some modification, i am getting 27-30 afperrev (at idle) when your supposed to get 25 or so.

and ive read that thing all up and down, but i will need to get back through it now that ive actually got the car running.

and thank you for your help.

Another thing, sometimes I see .4 counts of knock. I come from using a palm loggers where it displayed only whole values 1-43 is this considered 4 counts? Or is it .4 legitimately like less then half a count. And 9.2 is really a tad over 9 counts?

 

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ok , update i have been chasing oil leaks since i have gotten the car running. tracked and repaired the largest. i still have yet to set up the wideband.. but it is on my high priority list, after getting seatbelts in the car, since i currently have none. im still getting small amount of knock on wot pulls .4 not sure if its something to be concerned enough the change the tune or just get better gas.(87/93 mix currently).

i will attach a log of the cruise home with some small wot pulls.

 

[DSMReviver]

Brian, how did you put the pin back in? dose it snap back in?