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First dyno ever!

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2g spyder eclipse

Proven Member
390
1
Apr 30, 2013
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Next week I am going in for my first dyno ever to see what my spyder has got in her :thumb:

Mods- evo3 16g, HKS SSQV, FMIC, 3" Turbo back, 560cc evo 8 injectors, 190lph, and AFC2 to tune. I tuned for 20 psi right now and it hauls compared to when it was stock. I am just praying I hit 300whp what do you think I will hit? I am not stopping until I hit 300whp haha. Yes I have done all maintenance and the upgrade path.

Thanks! :hellyeah:
 
Next week I am going in for my first dyno ever to see what my spyder has got in her :thumb:

Mods- evo3 16g, HKS SSQV, FMIC, 3" Turbo back, 560cc evo 8 injectors, 190lph, and AFC2 to tune. I tuned for 20 psi right now and it hauls compared to when it was stock. I am just praying I hit 300whp what do you think I will hit? I am not stopping until I hit 300whp haha. Yes I have done all maintenance and the upgrade path.

Thanks! :hellyeah:

Looks like a stock evo 8-9 tune to me. But who knows, were just going to have to wait and see. Good Luck:hellyeah:
 
Thanks haha! I've read similar people with similar mods putting up 320whp with the evo 3 @ 20psi. But every car is different.
 
Is it a legit Evo 3 16g? As in serial number 49178-01470
 
I haven't checked the actual serial numbers, but it does say TDO5H and it isn't the shitty shiny ebay ones, it looks legit. No shaft play.
 
TD05H just refers to the turbine, not the compressor. Even a 14b has "TD05H" on the compressor cover.

Knowing exactly which compressor you have will tell you a lot about how much power to expect.
 
Hey GL on the dyno. I feel ya, im going for my first dyno very soon as well. Possibly today.
 
Mine is still on the car and this is what you want to see:
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Before you go to the dyno, just make sure you do the following to ensure smooth runs with no troubles:

1. Do a boost leak test, in your case, go to 25psi and eliminate any leaks.
2. Make sure youre throttle cable and TPS are set properly
3. Make sure your base timing is set to 5* BTDC
4.Make sure your base fuel pressure is set correctly- 1G is 37.5 PSI with the vac line disconnected
This will ensure that the car is performing at an optimal level, and you will have the best tunability.
 
Before you go to the dyno, just make sure you do the following to ensure smooth runs with no troubles:

1. Do a boost leak test, in your case, go to 25psi and eliminate any leaks.
2. Make sure youre throttle cable and TPS are set properly
3. Make sure your base timing is set to 5* BTDC
4.Make sure your base fuel pressure is set correctly- 1G is 37.5 PSI with the vac line disconnected
This will ensure that the car is performing at an optimal level, and you will have the best tunability.

To add to this.. 1G Manual Trans is ~37.5, AT is 43psi

Bring a second set of spark plugs.
 
^^^Indeed, sir. And I also forgot plug gap and plugs :ohdamn:
I just use NGK BR7ES gapped to .024(not BPR7ES), the non protruded type always has helped keep the knock out of it, and while most put their gap at .028, Ive found .024 to be quite nice under higher boost conditions.
 
br9s gapped .-019 currently. NO blowout but cruise has been jumpy so i may need to go a bit larger in the gap.
 
Ok, I will bring new plugs, I will boost leak test and I will make sure everything else is up to par.

Would it be bad to have fresh oil change right before the dyno?
 
9s are a bit cold. I was running 8s with no problem. Probably going back to them. I switched to e85 and thought id use a colder plug. idk,heard it somewhere haha.
 
9s are a bit cold. I was running 8s with no problem. Probably going back to them. I switched to e85 and thought id use a colder plug. idk,heard it somewhere haha.

Where did you read that? If anything it's the opposite since e85 burns cooler and a hotter plug would be more beneficial.
 
Ok, I was back asswards. So (threadjack, guilty) br7es should be better? 30+ psi roughly 50lbs min
 
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