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finally running on all 4 - but now high boost?

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Royalty

15+ Year Contributor
904
1
Apr 30, 2004
norfolk, Virginia
all of you who helped me on the 2 cyl. I replace the power transistor and boom she fired right up. Sweet. :rocks:

NOw what. No tach.....fantastic (sarcasm) OMG SO any way i decide to take her for a test run. i go down the street babying her. then i get to teh the end and trun around. i rev her up, a lil and proceed oon my way back.

while im going the stock boost gauge jumps up to 14 and i hear the tubo spool like crazy. OMG

Most of you would say thats a good thing, but oddly enough i'm not going any where. :confused: WTF is that all about.

I have an MBC and hav eno idea what it is set at. Maybe i should just remove it until i get her runnign right or is that something else.
 
c'mon fellas. yall have got to give me some credit.

My a pillar broke, i tore apart my interior the boost gauge is chillin on the side. u can see it. Itsnot readily viewable But its there ROFL
 

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ok check this out.

I go test drive her. I'm in first gear (no tach) and i'm not going a lil over idle speed when i hear the tubro start to spool. I'm getign ready for her to pull but i get nothing.

i press the accelerator and it spools agian then, POOF, a big ass cloud of smoke she sputters and jerks then dies.

I start again and continue my drive. press pedal...spool...sputter IT pulled a little!! then sputter.

plugs? boost leak?
 
1. Bypass the mbc and run the pressure source directly to the wastgate actuator.

2. A broken pillar mount is no excuse not to activate the boost gauge, tape the gauge or whatever you need to do, you need it to trouble shoot.

3. Check the turbo for shaft play and the licp and ic for oil, I agree with above that it sounds like a blown turbo.

4. You obviously have done a compression test on your cylinder thread , what were the numbers? If not do a compression test and post back.

Good luck.
 
oldman said:
1. Bypass the mbc and run the pressure source directly to the wastgate actuator.

2. A broken pillar mount is no excuse not to activate the boost gauge, tape the gauge or whatever you need to do, you need it to trouble shoot.

3. Check the turbo for shaft play and the licp and ic for oil, I agree with above that it sounds like a blown turbo.

4. You obviously have done a compression test on your cylinder thread , what were the numbers? If not do a compression test and post back.

Good luck.


1. u mean hook her up like stock..done

2. its hooked so it works. i will tape it dash for viewing

3. the turbo had no shat play when i bought it. but then agin i got it off dsmtrader so anythign is possible. i will sheck the licp though.

How else would i check for a blown turbo?

4. i'll have to dig up the numbers. i can say right now. but whatever they were they were good.
 
check intercooler pipes! could be one half on half off just enough for it to spool and get presure then seppartes then car dies.....
it happens to me often! :talon:
 
When my T25 went it started doing the exact same thing, alot of spool and no go. Everytime I shifted there was a huge cloud of smoke behind me, then it started to smoke while idling and then while driving.
I checked for shaft play and it moved like crazy. It just started to "port" the housing with the wheel. Anyways, I put my EvoIII16G and then that fixed that problem (only to lead to more the same day :notgood: but now it's all good)
Hope this helped,
JB
 
Royalty said:
3. the turbo had no shat play when i bought it. but then agin i got it off dsmtrader so anythign is possible. i will sheck the licp though.

How else would i check for a blown turbo?

4. i'll have to dig up the numbers. i can say right now. but whatever they were they were good.

Check the turbo again, make sure oil feed line and return line are healthy. I would also revisit your old thread and those compression numbers, make sure it was done right. http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm Can very well be related to the nt coils you swapped in. The tough part here is that you're replacing bad parts with used unproven parts, just have to be more patient with it.
 
OK im not a Mitsu 4cyl person but here is my guess:

I dont think its a blown turbo out of the blue, I dont think it would be a compretion thing because normaly a turbo is more laggy when spooling if it has one or more weak cylenders.

What does make a car spool alot faster and make alot less power is the timing being to advanced.

He replaced his "power transistor" with a NA model which is why his tach doesnt work, is there anychance the NA transistor will add base timing?

We have had a Turbo M3 road race car with an electromotive ecu run incorect timing and it did the identical thing till I put a timing light on it and realised the tone wheel was never corectly adjusted.

Now the NA transistor might work but has anyone verified if it has the same timing output or if it changes the timing, by the tach not working it obviously does somthing with the trigger wires.

Just a wild stab in the dark...
 
Royalty said:
ok check this out.

I go test drive her. I'm in first gear (no tach) and i'm not going a lil over idle speed when i hear the tubro start to spool. I'm getign ready for her to pull but i get nothing.

i press the accelerator and it spools agian then, POOF, a big ass cloud of smoke she sputters and jerks then dies.

I start again and continue my drive. press pedal...spool...sputter IT pulled a little!! then sputter.

plugs? boost leak?


if u wanna look into a boost leak, ive got a boost leak tester if u have access to an air compressor that would be a good thing to check, lemme know im in norfolk
wiseskroat on aim
 
Lots of boost but no Go... Sounds like somehow your CAS got turned way up... Trying to correct my timing I turned it up so far that the car would spool Insanely quick but gave me no power... set your base idle timing to 5 BTDC and make sure your timing (with a datalogger) is correct...
 
i never thought of that

i'll be workign on it tomorrow, i will appy ALL of you guys's suggstions tomorrw and report back
 
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