The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Feedback On GSX Setup

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Shane2GSX

15+ Year Contributor
423
24
Oct 13, 2005
Louisville, Kentucky
First off, I have done plenty of research on the different aspects of my setup as well as different profiles of people with similar times as my goals. I'm hoping the mods below will get me to my goals, and from the research I've done I think they will. However, this is just a rough draft (for lack of better term) of my planned setup. All constructive criticism is welcome. If anyone has any comments or suggestions please post. Thanks.

Platform:
1999 GSX - 56,000 Miles (Completely Stock) MT
Not my Daily Driver

Goals:
Low to mid 12 second 1/4 time *EDIT* On Pump Gas *EDIT*
Hoping for something in the range or 300-350 AWD HP
Stock weight

Initial Mod List:
Boost, EGT Guages
Apexi N1 3" Catback
Apexi 2.75" DP
Colder Plugs
Dejon Tool Intake
Blitz SS BOV (old style)
Greddy Profec B BC
ACT 2100 or 2600 *EDIT*
Apexi SAFC II
GM MAF
MAFT
Walbro 190 or 255 *EDIT*
650's
Evo III 16G (ported) or 20G not sure which yet
FMIC w/short route 2.25" piping

Future:
DSM Link
Light weight racing rims
Cams


Updated Mod List: (Edited*)
NGK 7's
K & N Intake Filter - Installed
Blitz Dual Turbo Timer - Installed
A-Pillar Pod (Gaugepods.com) - Installed
Boost, EGT, and Oil Pressure Gauges (Autometer) - Installed
Megan Racing 3" DP and Catback - Installed
Blitz SS BOV (Old Style) - Installed
Hallman MBC - Installed
3" Dejon Tool Intake
Megan Racing Short Throw Shifter* - Installed
Symborski Shift Kit* - Installed
SBR 3500 Clutch*
XACT Streetlight Flywheel*
PLX M-300 Wideband Kit
Walbro 255*
AFPR
PTE 780cc Injectors (not sure which)
95' EPROM ECU - Have
DSM Link
50 Trim (PTE T-Tech Ball Bearing 5031)
38mm Tial WG off O2*
VP O2 Housing (Recirculated)*
Ported 2G Manifold*
XS Power FMIC Kit - Have
ARP Headstuds & Headgasket*

Future:
264 HKS Cams
Lighter Weight Rims
Springs*
 
Widebands are definitely nice to have, especially with DSMLink since you can directly log data from the wideband along with everything else, giving you everything you really need to tune your car. There are numerous writeups in the DSMLink forums about how to install widebands and properly add their inputs to the ECU.
 
But a wideband setup is not necessary to tune with DSMLink? I can still get a good/safe tune without it right?

Can the temporary tune on the SAFC and pocketlogger be a safe tune?

Would it be better to go with DSMLink for the future or some type of other chipped system like Keydiver?

Please excuse my ignorance, I have done lots of searching, but there are lots of opinions and there is lots of misinformation out there. I'm just trying to filter out the bad of what I've read and get the best out of my setup. Thanks again to all who have helped!
 
It would be highly recommended to wideband tune it. While DSMLink does have a calculated A/F Ratio, this is still not absolutely correct although it is a fairly good estimation. The only way to really tune it is to set your AFR by a wideband so you know exactly what it is, then go from there.
 
You use the wideband to determine your current A/F ratio, then the SAFCII and Pocketlogger or DSMLink to adjust those parameters. The wideband kit will only help you, and it will help regardless of your tuning device as it's another (rather important) piece of data to get. You're better off saving for DSMLink now if you plan on doing that.
 
Okay, thanks for the information it's appreciated! So then I may need to add in a wideband setup and guage. That adds to the expense. This is definitely getting more expensive than I thought it would be. :(
 
BoostedWilk said:
I had just a 255 in my 1g no fpr and had no problems? WTF

Yes you did, you just didn't know any better. You're over-running the injectors so badly at idle it's not even funny. My car idled so much better, and ran so much better in the lower revs when I got my Aeromotive.

Honestly, if you are going to go bigger than 190, you should have an AFPR to install when you put the new pump in.

Cheaping out on supporting mods is why dsm's are so unreliable, IMO.
 
Shane2GSX said:
Okay, thanks for the information it's appreciated! So then I may need to add in a wideband setup and guage. That adds to the expense. This is definitely getting more expensive than I thought it would be. :(

With DSMLink you don't need a gauge, which should help reduce some of the costs since widebands without them generally cost less. They are often on sale on the forums as well, generally for a good price (~175 for a LC1 right now I believe)
 
Well, that helps things a little. But it raises another issue. Since I'm getting DSMLink later on down the road and going with the SAFC/Logger combo first, woulnd't getting a wideband kit be worthless until DSMLink is installed? Or can the pocketlogger read the wideband data? If not, then will the SAFC/Logger combo without the wideband setup be safe?
 
Pocketlogger cannot read a wideband input. You could get one with a gauge then later sell it I suppose. The SAFC/Logger combo would work fine, although ideally you'd want time with a wideband. Otherwise you're just adjusting fuels based on timing curve alone.
 
Okay, next question. It seems to me that I would not need an EGT gauge to detect a dangerously lean condition since that information is already being provided by the wideband setup. Is my thinking correct here?

Also, what's the max hp for a rewired 190lph fuel pump? 400 whp?
 
I'm going to make everyone mad and say that you could always just not get a wide band till you have a DSMlink. I guess we'd need to know what the time frame for DSMlink is?

You can still tune using the narrow band O2 (though it won't be as accurate as WB 02) and be fine. Your logger will tell you where in the RPM band your O2 volts are rich/lean and just adjust accordingly. IMHO it's dumb to buy the WB gauge only to turn around and sell it for much less than you bought it for.
 
Okay then, here is my thinking. When all is said and done I will be running DSM Link, and the wideband setup without the gauge. So I'll just buy the Boost and EGT guages, sell the SAFC II and not buy the pocketlogger. Since I won't have to buy the wb gauge, or pocketlogger I'm saving say $300 right there. I can sell the SAFC II for $300, it's barely used and in perfect shape, there's $600. Then I'll just buy DSMLink and an EPROM ECU and I'm out anywhere from 0-$100 and without all the headache of switching things. So my mod list should look like this. How's that setup look? Again, open to opinions/suggestions as I want to do it right the first time.

Boost, EGT Guages
3" Megan Racing Ex & DP or RNR 3" Turboback
3" Dejon Tool Intake
Blitz SS BOV (Old Style) - Have
Greddy Profec B BC
ACT 2100
Apexi SAFC II - Have(SELL)
Walbro 190 Rewired
650's (Ball style)
50 Trim
FMIC w/short route 2.5" piping
PLX M-250 or 300 Wideband Kit (If anyone knows a better alternative please speak up)
95' EPROM ECU & DSM Link

Future
Lightened Flywheel
264 HKS Cams
Lighter Weight Rims
Internals *Maybe*
 
Shane2GSX said:
Okay then, here is my thinking. When all is said and done I will be running DSM Link, and the wideband setup without the gauge. So I'll just buy the Boost and EGT guages, sell the SAFC II and not buy the pocketlogger. Since I won't have to buy the wb gauge, or pocketlogger I'm saving say $300 right there. I can sell the SAFC II for $300, it's barely used and in perfect shape, there's $600. Then I'll just buy DSMLink and an EPROM ECU and I'm out anywhere from 0-$100 and without all the headache of switching things. So my mod list should look like this. How's that setup look? Again, open to opinions/suggestions as I want to do it right the first time.

Boost, EGT Guages
3" Megan Racing Ex & DP
3" Dejon Tool Intake
Blitz SS BOV (Old Style) - Have
Greddy Profec B BC
ACT 2100
Apexi SAFC II - Have(SELL)
Walbro 190 Rewired
650's (Ball style)
50 Trim
FMIC w/short route 2.5" piping
PLX M-250 Wideband Kit (If anyone knows a better alternative please speak up)
95' EPROM ECU & DSM Link

Future
Lightened Flywheel
264 HKS Cams
Lighter Weight Rims
Internals *Maybe*

I highly doubt you'll be able to get $300 for the SAFC2, you could probably get $250 for it.
Also save some $$$, and get a Manual Boost Controller, instead of that Profec.:thumb:

And then get a 255 lph pump, instead of the 190, and get an FPR w/ FP gauge.

Also, I was reading earlier on, about how you wanted a GM MAF so you could vent the BOV, now someone please correct me if im wrong, but couldnt you just relocate the stock 2g MAF, to the IC piping after the BOV??
 
kidwiththelaser said:
I highly doubt you'll be able to get $300 for the SAFC2, you could probably get $250 for it.
Also save some $$$, and get a Manual Boost Controller, instead of that Profec.:thumb:

And then get a 255 lph pump, instead of the 190, and get an FPR w/ FP gauge.

Also, I was reading earlier on, about how you wanted a GM MAF so you could vent the BOV, now someone please correct me if im wrong, but couldnt you just relocate the stock 2g MAF, to the IC piping after the BOV??


A 255lph with an FPR + gauge will cost WAY more than a 190lph does. Budget here is ~$3,000

Shane2GSX - have you looked at the RNR Racing exhausts? They're really cheap for a turbo back. No idea how much your exhaust setup is though.
 
my old setup was similar and i made 355awhp on 20psi pump gas and over 400 on race gas. id say u got urself in the right direction. definitely 255 pump for sure 650s will do great with the afc no need for a gm maf with this setup. id get a wideband o2 gauge and sensor or a wideband kit instead of that pocketlogger(hands down). id leave the 16g alone only because that thing will be maxed out immediately and actually its almost obsolute at this point so many other better choices to choose from. a tdo6 20g is what i had. but i would look into maybe the PTE ballbearing 50trims that u can find under 900$!!! the clutch i would definitely go 2600. i was going thru a street disk every 30kmiles on my 2600 and i am very good on my clutch. dont forget a good bar and plate front mount. Once u get this setup dialed in id go cams. that will for sure get u up to that 350 mark on pump gas conservative boost. i wish wish i could show u my dyno plots from my old setup i was hitting 300hp right at 4000rpm and increasing to 355 at redline at only 20psi

Good luck with the car
 
about the thread on the fuel pressure regulator i didnt have one at this level. i bought a aeromotive regulator when i switched out the 20g for a 60-1. u will have plenty of fuel with the 650s and the 255pump. i had my 255 rewired as well so if anything do that its inexpensive and it works
 
kidwiththelaser said:
I highly doubt you'll be able to get $300 for the SAFC2, you could probably get $250 for it.
Also save some $$$, and get a Manual Boost Controller, instead of that Profec.:thumb:

And then get a 255 lph pump, instead of the 190, and get an FPR w/ FP gauge.

Also, I was reading earlier on, about how you wanted a GM MAF so you could vent the BOV, now someone please correct me if im wrong, but couldnt you just relocate the stock 2g MAF, to the IC piping after the BOV??

I have someone offering $300 for the SAFC2.

I want an electronic boost controller so I can have control over the boost from in the car.

I'm still unsure about the 255 with fpr or a rewired 190, there are a lot of different opinions.

I don't want to vent, it's not worth the trouble at this point.
 
Dark_Horse said:
A 255lph with an FPR + gauge will cost WAY more than a 190lph does. Budget here is ~$3,000

Shane2GSX - have you looked at the RNR Racing exhausts? They're really cheap for a turbo back. No idea how much your exhaust setup is though.

I have not as of yet. The Megan racing are supposed to be about $325 for the catback when they come out and $125 for a downpipe. Not too bad. But I'll check out RNR.
 
i have the megan racing turboback. very nice on my 97gsx that doesnt have a motor in it currently LOL. but ya dude 255 pump rewired and 650s will handle 350-400whp all day long just tuning with an afc.
 
A 190 rewired will also handle 350-400 whp--up to 46 lbs/min at 20 psi boost, or rather 63 psi fuel pressure. Beyond this though I would agree with a rewired 255 and an AFPR with the reason being that at 68 psi fuel pressure, or 25 psi (max sustainable boost that I've seen) the flow drops very quickly, given that fuel pump curves are logistic.
 
glenneclipsegsx said:
i have the megan racing turboback. very nice on my 97gsx that doesnt have a motor in it currently LOL. but ya dude 255 pump rewired and 650s will handle 350-400whp all day long just tuning with an afc.


How is it that you have that turbo back? I didn't even think they were out yet. Where did you get it because I've been sitting around waiting for it to come out. Does it sound nice and deep like the Apexi N1? :confused:
 
i actually have one of the first prototypes. i will be selling these very soon but if your looking right now call up megan yourself. my car isnt together so all i got to do is test fit the thing. looks very nice and the fitment is perfect. if u were local id consider selling u mine for what i payed and help u put it on just so i could hear it LOL. ill be able to get another one at any time
 
glenneclipsegsx said:
i actually have one of the first prototypes. i will be selling these very soon but if ## looking right now call up megan yourself. my car isnt together so all i got to do is test fit the thing. looks very nice and the fitment is perfect. if u were local id consider selling u mine for what i payed and help u put it on just so i could hear it LOL. ill be able to get another one at any time

I appreciate it man, would have been cool to do that. :cool:

So if I contact them they might sell me a prototype? Do you know what the cost would be? I'm considering the RNR turbo back as well, but I'm not sure about some of the bad things I'm reading about there customer service. Also, I'm not so sure I like the look of the muffler, the tip looks a bit undersized for the muffler in my opinion, but maybe it's just the pics.

Also, if I got the RNR with the 02 eliminator, would I still be to able to run a Wideband setup? Does a WB setup require both O2 sensors or just the first one? :confused:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top