Favorite oil blend for n/t?

[DSMOCTANE]

-I am getting through a full, complete engine rebuild on my 99' Eclipse with the 420a engine, and am trying to decide whether or not I should switch to either a semi or fully synthetic blend. I hear many good reviews about Lucas motor oil, and even have ran it fully satisfied in my transmission. (gear oil that is) I know that the 2g n/t's take a 5w-30 blend, but is it truly beneficial to convert to a fully synthetic blend?

 

[rellow88]

a great cheap oil is shell rotella i never had a problem with it i run it in my dd's and i ran it in my bike if i can find the write up on it again i will post a link to it but my opinion synthetic is the way to so

 

[DeadlyScone]

If you are not running a turbo then no, there is not a need for full synthetic oil. The reason being is that the turbo get so hot that the oil gets more susceptible to thermal breakdown, also it helps lubricate the moving parts in the turbo better.

IMHO just stick to the $25 motor oil, it does the job well enough. Plus enjoy not shooting a hole in your pocket when you got to do an oil change

EDIT: i forgot to read the "i'am rebuilding the engine" part I would baby the engine and use full or even part like you said until you break the motor in good.

 

[g4ebguy90]

Honestly I have ran Full synthetic on a car, and regular old dino oil.

While synthetic did keep the bearings, and oil pressure like the day I bought it 50k later.... The $50-60 oil changes were killing me. By the 6th oil change I could have have got another motor with the money I would save.

Unless we are driving like corvette, viper, etc etc you get the idea, I really don't see the need for using synthetic, a nice expensive build maybe, but at least be above 3-4k.

 

[DSM1G90]

If you just did a rebuild, use dino oils until the break-in before switching to synth oils. Otherwise, thing will never get broke in if you begin with synth oils. And 5w30 is fine for these 420A motors-they have very tight tolerances where this low weight of oil (the 30) will still protect. New cars nowdays, will run 5w20 since their tolerances are much more tighter..

AND, if you just did a rebuild with honing the cyl walls and new rings, use cheap dino oils for break-in oils and change oils very, very frequently - like 50 miles for the first change, then changes of: 100, 200, 500 then up to 1000 miles before switching to synth oils. You need to get all of the metal shavings captured in the filter that the rings are going to cut off the walls when they are seating before the switch.

Only advantage with using synth for NT motors is that the oil lasts much longer, lubricates much, much better since the oil molecules are the same size and thus the oil will not break down as quick as the dino oils, whose molecules are of different sizes and shapes. Why synths are good for turbo use is that these oils handle the heat a lot better and will not decompose under intense heat as does regular dino oils in turbo use.

AMSOIL is the best synth oil out there since it's the most purist synth oil out there. Reports from taxicab fleets on motors well over 300k running AMSOIL being torn down for check of wear, and simply reassembled to keep running again - inside parts were still new looking with very minimual wear.

Transmissions: stay away from Lucas - not needed in that Chrysler tranny (if it's a manual one..) and use Chrysler fluids, or similar. Stuff was never put in there in the first place, so why begin now?

 

[fwdmaster]

With your setup,I would recommend running regular Castrol GTX with Lucas oil stabilizer

 

[DSMOCTANE]

If you just did a rebuild, use dino oils until the break-in before switching to synth oils. Otherwise, thing will never get broke in if you begin with synth oils. And 5w30 is fine for these 420A motors-they have very tight tolerances where this low weight of oil (the 30) will still protect. New cars nowdays, will run 5w20 since their tolerances are much more tighter..

AND, if you just did a rebuild with honing the cyl walls and new rings, use cheap dino oils for break-in oils and change oils very, very frequently - like 50 miles for the first change, then changes of: 100, 200, 500 then up to 1000 miles before switching to synth oils. You need to get all of the metal shavings captured in the filter that the rings are going to cut off the walls when they are seating before the switch.

Only advantage with using synth for NT motors is that the oil lasts much longer, lubricates much, much better since the oil molecules are the same size and thus the oil will not break down as quick as the dino oils, whose molecules are of different sizes and shapes. Why synths are good for turbo use is that these oils handle the heat a lot better and will not decompose under intense heat as does regular dino oils in turbo use.

AMSOIL is the best synth oil out there since it's the most purist synth oil out there. Reports from taxicab fleets on motors well over 300k running AMSOIL being torn down for check of wear, and simply reassembled to keep running again - inside parts were still new looking with very minimual wear.

Transmissions: stay away from Lucas - not needed in that Chrysler tranny (if it's a manual one..) and use Chrysler fluids, or similar. Stuff was never put in there in the first place, so why begin now?

-It is a manual transmission, correct. And I thought it ran great with the 85-90 gear oil for the transmission. Hmmm? Maybe just a preference? Chrysler tranny fluid crosses over as being a similar viscosity so I thought it would be an appropriate choice? Correct me if I am wrong!

 

[DSM1G90]

Chrysler trannys have a different syncro setup in them that needs "FM" (friction modifier) content since the syncros are felt lined ... I know - seems that there has to be one manufacturer that has to be a bit different than others....

Like Hondas are STILL using 5w30 motor oil in their manual transmissions...