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really?? well u might want to update your mods list cuz a built valvetrain and a clutch isnt gonna get you into the 14s, LOL. What mods do you have done to your ride?? Im interested in seeing what it takes to get a 2G into the 14s.
 
uh huh, well I post on 2GNT a lot as well and unless you have ur mods in your sig over there there is no way to tell what kind of mods you have. Either way, Im not trying to go search for info, its not that serious.
 
ok, so how do you spend a grand and get into the 14's? sounds like b.s to me.

i spent a little over 3,000.00 just on my motor and i hope i can break in the 14's.

by the way guys i ran out of money so my 2.2 hasen't gone in yet and now i have a blown gasket in the 2.0. it's not bad engine runs fine; so far nothing is wrong except you need to add about 1/2 a qt. of oil ever 2 months. i'm thinking of selling it so i can start to pay off my credit card and get the new motor in. with 52,000 on the motor how much should i sell it for?
 
Originally posted by RACER-X


(o2 sensor tripping.. bank 1 and 3 not running right at low rpm's)

Not getting in to the arguement of who's faster and all... and not argueing the point of running with a check engine light. I'm not even breaking out of the 17's yet and have spent quite a bit of money. So bragging or picking on anyone is not my intention.

But there is no "Bank 3" on our cars. Upstream o2 is the one the computer tunes from and is bank 1. Downstream is the one used to determine catalytic converter efficiency and is bank 2.
Doug
 
and if your right doug; then it would be bank 2. when the guy did the diognistic (s/p?) check he showed me a reading that had 1) 2) 3) 4)
and when he applied gas at low idle the numbers didn't move while the others increased. it wasnt until about 3,500 rpm where the numbers jumped.
 
Originally posted by RACER-X
the guy at auto zone.

I think that's alot of the problem. Many of these guys sell parts and don't actually fix cars. I don't know what kind of scan tool he was showing you the readings on nor do I know his qualifications for using it. I would go off of a DTC or fault code that was set before I trusted a generic scan tool's sensor reading.

The upstream o2 fluctuates irratically while in closed loop (low RPM) once it goes in to open loop then it holds in the 0.90-0.99 volt range depending on the air/fuel ratio. The downstream o2 fluctuates in smaller increments since the cat is releasing oxygen to completely burn off extra gas. When the cat has been removed or gutted then the downstream o2 will fluctuate more rapidly and have a higher reading (closer to the upstream o2's reading).

It's probably been a while since your visit to auto zone and the problem may or may not be present still. If it is... we can continue to analyze the problem further. If it's not... no need for me to keep babbling.
 
yes the problem is still there. i've changed both the up and down stream o2 sensors and had the ecu reset. it took about 2 days for the ecu to catch the problem again. the check engine light came on and once again it's reading the down o2 sensor. to me the engine seem to run fine; no real signs of bogging, idle is good, and there is no engine noise or ratteling. i've had this problem for about 6 months now and have no idea of what it could be except for maybe a bad cat. how do i check it?.. and what would i be looking for?
 
That really all depends on the specific code for the downstream o2. If it reads: Downstream o2 short to voltage, slow to change, short to ground, open circuit then your problem is electrical and involves the o2, the wiring, or the PCM itself and possibly any combination of the three. If the code reads: Catalytic converter efficiency then your problem is with the cat itself. High mileage cars will tend to need cat replacement. If ANY of the above codes are present and no other codes are... then that explains why you don't feel any performance/driveability problems. Like I said before all the downstream o2 does is check catalytic converter efficiency. It does not supply a signal to the computer in order for the computer to then change operation. It is for monitoring purposes only.

Do you have the specific "P" codes that were retrieved when the scan tool was hooked up? Can you go back and get it read again?
Doug
 
P0401 is Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected from the chilton book and EGR System Failure in the Mopar book.

That's got absolutely nothing to do with o2 sensors with the exception of the fact that if the EGR is stuck open then it's dumping too much exhaust back in to the intake causing it to run high intake air temps, may cause engine to run rough.

The dude at autozone was way off in left field. Chances are VERY high that you've got a back EGR valve.
Doug
 
This is a pic of my engine bay. Should be the same as yours. If you'll notice I have a header and a cold air intake system (these are old pics by the way). The throttle body is against the firewall. The cold air goes to the driver's side for about 1/2 inch. Then comes towards the front of the car. When it takes that turn downward and to the driver's side you'll notice a small round cylinder to the passenger side of the cold air. It has a white label on it, a creme color connector, a plastic vacuum line that follows the cold air intake back to the intake plenum, and two small vacuum lines that go from the disc shaped component to an aluminum component which is then mounted to the cylinder head.

OK. that aluminum component mounted to the head is the EGR valve. It has a metal tube that runs under the cold air intake and connects to the back side of the intake plenum just to the passenger side of the throttle body. You can't see this in my pic but you can on your car. The component with the label, electrical connector, plastic vacuum line and two rubber lines is the EGR solenoid. It tells the egr valve when to open and close.

A replacement EGR valve will come with the valve and this EGR solenoid as well. If you buy one and need instructions putting it on then I'll go in to detail for you. Otherwise... that's where it is and that's what the code is realted to. NOT an o2 sensor.
Doug
Damn... can't put the pic in cause it's too big. OK... go to my profile on here and then to my photo gallery. Then you can see it.
 
well, i'm glad your here; i probably would have never figured out what else it could have been. running with it like it is for so long, could it cause any harm to my engine. engine temps. have always been low.
 
If it's stuck in the closed position then it's about the same as an EGR block off kit. Idea behind that is it keeps intake air temp down increasing content of oxygen thus more gas can be thrown in and more bang for the buck. Plus EGR gets blamed for a lot of intake crud. Which is true to some extent. So blocking it off or having a stuck closed valve won't really hurt much other than increase NOx and giving you the re-occuring check engine light.

If it's stuck open then yeah, it's a bad thing. It increases intake air temps when it's not supposed to and will cause even more build-up of carbon in the intake as well as kill performance.
D
 
is there a way i can find out if it's stuck open or closed?.... and once again thanks for putting up with my endless amount of questions.
 
Doug thats very interesting. i took my car to inspection and i was a little high on my NOx reading. also when i switched my intake manifold i had a build up of carbon on the inside. wasnt really bad but bad enough. im thinking now im gonna replace the egr valve.

sorry didnt mean to butt in.
 
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