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extremely high idle after obx intake and injector install

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uniqueTurbosRs

Probationary Member
25
0
Feb 13, 2011
lakecity, Michigan
well first off i just installed a obx intake and 26lbh injectors . during the initial startup it idled a Lil high but nothing to be alarmed about i took it on a test drive it ran great until i was almost home and was idling very high . when i pulled in my drive way . i shut off the car and restarted and the engine reved to 6k rpm i have run a diagnostic and its showing high current circuit on the tps and map , as well as saying its running lean on bank 1 i changed out the tps and map and the iac , i have had no luck so far as figuring out this problem any info or suggestions will be greatly appreciated and i noticed my throttle body bolt on the bottom is a Lil loose and wont tighten anymore would this cause my problem . please help its making me mad
 
Almost sounds like a vacuum leak to me, have you sprayed around the TB/IM area? Also your 0-rings on your injectors you changed out could also cause a vacuum leak.
 
well heres an update. i checked again around the intake and i found a sensor that broke off during my install so i replaced it with the other one i had. i believe it was the air temp sensor so anyway . i replaced that and fixed as many vac leaks i could find and kazaam it idles but it still has an idle surge and its only throwing a code for my tps now on my diagnostic tool. but it idles around 1800 rpm and surges up to 2300 and yeah the stupid bolt that hold on the throttle body on one side stripped on me so ima try and re tap it and put a Lil deeper thread bolt in that tomorrow but it is running darn good besides the high idle and surge for the rpm mentioned i don't believe i have a vacuum leak from anywhere but around the stripped bolt on the tb at the moment but i did find a rear trans /motor mount is snapped around the bolt so its time for some new motor mounts i think and I'm pretty shure the injectors popped down in pretty good they feel a Lil loose though i can turn um side to side but i cant pop um up or down so I'm pretty shure there in is there a way to check that Ive heard of using wd40 to check this. but i heard starting fluid works best what should i do
 
but it idles around 1800 rpm and surges up to 2300 and yeah the stupid bolt that hold on the throttle body on one side stripped on me so ima try and re tap it and put a Lil deeper thread bolt in that tomorrow but it is running darn good besides the high idle and surge for the rpm mentioned i don't believe i have a vacuum leak from anywhere but around the stripped bolt on the tb at the moment but i did find a rear trans /motor mount is snapped around the bolt so its time for some new motor mounts i think and I'm pretty shure the injectors popped down in pretty good they feel a Lil loose though i can turn um side to side but i cant pop um up or down so I'm pretty shure there in is there a way to check that Ive heard of using wd40 to check this.
Is this one sentence? :nono:

I understand that not everyone is a great writer, but punctuation is something anyone operating a motor vehicle should know by now. Periods at least!

With that said, I translated it into English :p and can't figure out what you are asking about the WD40 - probably because I don't know the trick.
 
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Is he talking about checking for vacuum leaks with spray? If that is the case then I've always been told to use carb cleaner.
 
im sorry i apoligize for the bad puntuation. i was in a hurry when i left that message . i was talkin about vacuum too also when i was talkin about wd40 but i ment carb cleaner. sorry i had a dumb moment there. and yes i did a leak down test and it was fine except for around the intake but im hearing a whistlin noise coming from the intake. and cant figure out what i did wrong. is there a certain torque spec for the intake bolts . because i just tightened them up snug with a ratchet.
 
well heres the deal now . i checked around the injectors for leaks a walla. i got vacuum leak by the injectors . now the problem im having is gettin the injectors to pop in all the way . has anyone had this problem with the obx intake. when u pulled the injectors back out . it seemed that the injector o rings just are too big . the o rings that are on the injectors . just peeled right off around the injectors and. it was so bad that the o rings are flat now instead of rounded. should i try a smaller o ring
 
well heres the deal now . i checked around the injectors for leaks a walla. i got vacuum leak by the injectors . now the problem im having is gettin the injectors to pop in all the way . has anyone had this problem with the obx intake. when u pulled the injectors back out . it seemed that the injector o rings just are too big . the o rings that are on the injectors . just peeled right off around the injectors and. it was so bad that the o rings are flat now instead of rounded. should i try a smaller o ring
I had the exact same issue with an OBX fuel rail. The injectors just wouldn't fit into the bores. I chaulked it up to poor machining and threw it in the trash can.
 
Yeah i hear ya , on chalking it but i got 180 into getting extra holes tapped . And re threaded already so i have to . Make it work or I'm going to get physical with it and make it work ya know . thanks for the input everyone but any other ideas are welcome too . i might try and re machine the injector holes a Lil bit so they fit. After i try and find a Lil smaller o ring so ill see what i can do ill keep everyone updated.
 
Also if the car has cruise the cables run right over the injectors so maybe the throttle cable got jacked with.I had an idle situation like this and it ened up that i had what i thought was a vacuum line hooked up to my intake pipe and it was my bov line or something.What im trying to say is go back over all the vaccum lines or anything you disconnected when taking off the intake(if you did)and see if it is back to the way it was.It sounds like a vacuum situation and if you were messing with the intake you had to have disconnected the vacuum line that goes to the intake tube.maybe it's something that simple

Sorry,took me so long to finish my reply cause i was jacking around and didnt realize ya solved it.My bad.
 
Its far from solved. I actually removed the obx and put back on the stock intake with the new injectors and it runs great. but now I'm having a issue with that. it seems to be stalling when going from 55-60 to a stop . sometimes fully stalling and . sometimes idling at like 50 rpms by the time i stop at the stop sign and then. when i hit the gas it will idle at like 900 rpm. i think thats the tps sensor what u guys think let me know
 
That actually sounds like your ISC (Idle Speed Control) sticking, and is a very common problem on our cars.

- Jon
 
I'm not getting a single code thrown on my code reader though. And it only stalls out when the car is fully warmed up. When i come to a stop from 60mph but only when warm . And it takes a while of cranking it over for it to start. An upon the initial start when it starts. It seems to run like it has a miss until i hit the gas a couple times.
 
Sounds to me like ISC. So this thread has jumped around alot. Are you still using the OBX intake or stock? Are you still having problems with the injector O-rings? and are you still having idle surge? If so check the link that iugrad92turbo posted. VERY good info there.

A bad ISC will cause it to be hard to start and stall at times. Try this link. I just grabbed it off google.
DmTaLoN's Idle Speed Control Test/Fix Page!

O-rings not sealing properly will cause bad idle issues along with a few other wierd symptoms. A broken lower o-ring will cause an air vacuum leak at the manifold. Depending on the severity of the leak, a misfire will occur and a conflict with the computer with respect to the fuel mixture which is now unmanageable within the correct parameters. A bad injector o-ring will manifest itself like a vacuum leak. However, if you have one bad one, the chances of you having mulitple bad or failing o-rings is high. I'd replace them all. Usually you'll get muliple miss fire codes (which can be a lot of things, but...). Spray test with carb cleaner can help you diagnose intake/vacuum leaks. Just spray the carb cleaner around anywhere you think you may have a leak.

Remember to lubricate the new o-rings before installation. This can be done with a little vaseline or even axle grease. Use an oil that is safe for the rubber. This will not only make the installation easier, but will reduce the chances of twisting an o-ring or cutting it, etc. Good luck. Hope this helps.
 
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