Evo Iii 16g Feedback

[sweet97]

The title says it all. I am looking for feedback from users of the EVO III 16G. If I go with it on my '93AWD I will get the exhaust manifold, 02 husing and the turbo, all ported, probably from Buschur. At what RPM do you reach 16 psi? Thanks, Mark

 

[blcknspo0ln]

omfg... i usually dont care but this question has been beat to death... use the FUKIN SEARCH BUTTON. period.

 

[sweet97]

Yeah lots of subjects "beat to death." Lots outdated also, new members have the turbo. Searches turnup a lot of unnecessary info also. Some of your language has been beat to death also. Does misspelling the word allow it to be used in these forums? I usually ignore ignorant language but there are times when enough is enough. Forced Unlawful Carnal Knowledge. RAPE. Children can swear, it takes a man not to. I'm tired of immature people representing a car and club I respect. I will find guys interested in promoting the preservation, restoration, modification and generally enhancing the driving pleasure of the 4G63 elsewhere. Thanks and bye!

 

[sweet97]

By the way I read 3 pages on a search on the EVO turbo. Nothing on spool rpm or likes or dislikes. i did find a few posts by BlknspooOln and he apparently needs to swear to get his info across as it is a common thread in his posts. i'll stick to he other dsmsites, thanks

 

[miteclgst]

Alright here is the skinny, I don't want you to leave the site over a bad post. I currently own an Evo 3 16G (all mods in profie) it might be on a 2G but here is my feel on it: I like it alot, my only other turbo experiance was with a T-25 so there was a heck of a lot of room for improvement. THe thing reaches full spool at about 3100 RPM that is with a ported mani, and 02 housing. I got the 34mm flapper, it seems that the port job on the manifold is what creep depends on more than the flapper itself. There are a few threads on here about the flapper mod, I will let you look through them and decipher what you want to do my personal experiance has shown me that with the flapper and the port job that I have no creep, rock solid boost. I am currently running 20psi boost and it seems like it could do it all day if need be, the thing pulls from spool to redline. It seems to be safe to say that it is taking over the spot that used to be held by the big 16G and doing more efficiently. As for dislikes I really haven't found any yet but then again like I said this is my first turbo upgrade I'm sure that someone on here who has more experiace with turbos would be able to point out some of the negatives of the turbo. Hope that helps a bit, PM me if you want more info.

 

[yo2001]

Mine hits about 16 psi in low 3000rpm depends on gears. Car really wakes up pass 20 psi

 

[blcknspo0ln]

i'm offended but at least mitecl cleared things up

 

[white 2g awd]

well, i haven't ran mine hard yet, cause i'm still breaking in my clutch, but i got it at 9psi right now, and it feels just as fast as my t-25 at 15psi, occasionally creeping to 16. 150 miles left, then the boost gets cranked up

Dustin

 

[Corman12345]

omfg... i usually dont care but this question has been beat to death... use the FUKIN SEARCH BUTTON. period.

PMS ????

 

[blcknspo0ln]

PMS much when i surf this board everyday and find the same question asked a bazillion times. so yes, i was PMSing but hey it's all said and done now right ?

oh oh i know, lets have an e thug battle ! i'll cap yo ass fo0 for not searhing nub !!! :laugh:

 

[DSM Ghost]

Well I have the EVOIII turbo and manifold but I still running the stock 2g O2 housing. the EVO comes to life at about 3300rpm and I must say that I love this thing VS my T3/T4 61trim that takes till 4700rpm. I would tell any one that is thinking about get this turbo to buy it and have it ported and cliped, the mid range power to 7500rpm is great and it never falls off.


ps. just waiting for my EVOIII 02 gaskets for mt EVO O2. If you want to know any think more about it just PM me or ask here

 

[HiB00ST]

i've had mine for about 3 months or so...maybe less...but i love it!
i used to have the t25 and then i moved "up" to a t3/t4 and i think
the EVo3 is way better. better spool, sleeper lookin engine bay,
and my BOV is loud again! havent taken it to the track but as of
yet i cant complain.

full boost for me is at around 3300rpm but i've been told to gut
out my cat and it'll help spool a little faster.

oh btw, im fwd too! and there is traction problems (as im sure we
all have) but for the most part its just in 1st, i have 18s so they
probably dont spin as much as my friend (he has the same one
but on stock 16s). but once u get a feel for lauching it, it should
be all gravy!

 

[badgsx]

Does the EvoIII turbo need to be used with the evo manifold and 02 housing or can you use ported 2nd gen parts?

 

[sweet97]

It will bolt to the stock 2g manifold and 02 housing. You will need an installation kit though. Check out www. buschurracing.com. They seem to have the best prices and they have the kit and can tell you more. I would like that turbo along with the EVO III exhaust manifold and 02 housing, all ported by buschur. It is supposed to spool very wuick as it is 2.75 lbs. lighter than a big 16G. The compressor wheel has .015" blades compared to the old 16G .030" blades. Ligter blades= quicker spool. This turbo has the newest technology. The regular big 16G is outdated. Mark

 

[Keaka26]

It will bolt to the stock 2g manifold and 02 housing. You will need an installation kit though. Check out www. buschurracing.com. They seem to have the best prices and they have the kit and can tell you more. I would like that turbo along with the EVO III exhaust manifold and 02 housing, all ported by buschur. It is supposed to spool very wuick as it is 2.75 lbs. lighter than a big 16G. The compressor wheel has .015" blades compared to the old 16G .030" blades. Ligter blades= quicker spool. This turbo has the newest technology. The regular big 16G is outdated. Mark

Newest technology? The EVO3 isnt exactly a new car, and neither is the turbo on it. However, it is a good turbo, some say on par with an 18g, but not quite a 20g. As for the install kit, this turbo intalls just like any other 16g. Meaning it will bolt right on to a 1g, and requires the same things (install kit) on a 2g that the other 16gs require.

 

[sweet97]

I did not mean to infer that 2g owners would require a kit other than any other turbo would require. I apologize if it was taken that way. As far as newest technology I do not think anything by mitsu has a turbo with newer technology incorporated into it. the EVO is advertised as being 2.75lbs. less in total weight.
Comparing it to an 18G says something for it! I hope to add one to my '93 Talon as I have heard good things about the EVO III and quick spool is one. Thanks, Mark

 

[gigahz95]

SBR you can get yours ported and flapped modded, and shipped for about the price of getting it somewhere else. Maybe one day my car will run again

 

[Keaka26]

SBR you can get yours ported and flapped modded, and shipped for about the price of getting it somewhere else. Maybe one day my car will run again

Then again, going through SBR may cause unnecessary drama. Theres a couple guys on DSMtalk.com who bought brand new 20gs from SBR and both of them had compressor housing leaks. One guy called SBR and was told to use a thick layer of RTV to seal it. WHen that didnt work, he sent it back to them to fix, and they just re-applied the RTV and sent it back to him. Thats total BS, what the hell? Buy a brand new turbo and we will ghetto rig it up for you to make it work, all you hafta do is pay shipping!

Then there is me, with my rebuilt shortblock from SBR, with the magic freezeplugs that pop out of the block when you're driving, then they blame you for it when the car overheats.

/rant...

Long story short, stick with the vendors that have a proven track record, like forced performance.

 

[njshift]

I would tell any one that is thinking about get this turbo to buy it and have it ported and cliped, the mid range power to 7500rpm is great and it never falls off.

Why would you recommend clipping any 16g turbo? It defeats the purpose of keeping the quicker spoolup..

 

[dsm4life]

well i am in the need for an upgrade also and doing a search on "16g" i found this thread. Thanks for all info provided . Its either a 16G or a EVO16G and im leaving towards the evo i guess . One thing that i wanted to point out is that you do not NEED a install kit, them things are so over priced it pisses me off. just like it pisses me off when DSM people try to rip off other DSMers like selling B&M shifters used for 160.00 ! Give me a @#$@ brake (on stop now) haha so anyway . Im no pro but in talking to people this is what i have obtained, you can used stocker water lines but oil line needs to be upgraded (should be using SS braded line anyway with upgrade IMO) then you also need a J-pipe and you should really be set. Liek i said im no pro but thats what i came up with , if anyone knows anything different please straighten me out and get your gf to spank me . Rock on fella

 

[GPTourer]

I went from the T-25 to the EVO3. Full spool is like 3300 or so. I am set at 19psi. I have a ported manifold, but only the 34mm flapper mod to the turbo which is non ported. I love it. The power comes on strong and pulls to redline. I only have traction problems in first, but nothing hard to overcome. As far as installs go, all you need is a j-pipe, 1G oil return line, and the SS braided oil supply line that Road Race sells and you are good to go. The rest is just gaskets and bolts.

 

[miteclgst]

Well what you will actually need for the install kit will be the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket, a new ss oil line, new crush washers for stock T-25 water lines, 02 housing gasket, dp gasket, and both the J pipe and the L pipe to get to SMIC (both of these are needed because there is no way to get the stock hoses over the any of the new pipes due to their beads and overall diameter, trust me it can be done but it's not easy and not worth the aggrivation) buying everything separate would land you with:
Turbo to exhaust mani gasket (7cm) - $20
SS oil line - $55
crush washers - $3
turbo to 02 housing gasket - $9
dp gasket - $6
J and L pipe - $70 + $25
Oil return line gaskets - $2
Total $190 those are all the components you will definately NEED to install the turbo with a SMIC

If you actually take your exhaust manifold out to do the install then tack on an extra $15 for the head to manifold gasket..........new total $205

There is no real way of cutting corners on the install kit, unless you have a side to side FMIC and you are comfortable with welding and fabricating some of your own piping then everything in the above list will be necessary minus the pipes. As stated before the new water lines aren't really necessary, the ones from the T-25 will work just fine with a little tweaking. Here is a site that does a step by step install click here

 

[miteclgst]

I didn't need the 1G oil return line but I am guessing that you got it because the holes on the turbo side of the line are much closer together than those of the standard 2G line? This would make the install quite a bit easier and save some time. I ended up taking mine to a near by machine shop and having then oval out the holes on my oil return line, it only took about 10 minutes on the milling machine.

 

[sweet97]

Well I justgot my '93 AWD Talon back after a $3500. tranny replacement. TeamRip new tranny with a 10% reduction 5th gear, ACT 2100 and street flywheel. I've had 3 back surgeries but was excited with the car so I went ahead and installed a dual gauge pod and boost gauge, K&N filter(removed unmetered honeycomb) and also got the Dejon Upper IC pipe with GM MAF. That pipe was not fun to install. However it is in and the car still boosts. I need to install my wideband A/f meter to get some stock readings and then i have a set of 550cc inj's and I will get the MAF-Translator installed. My exhaust is something the previous owner rigged up. 2.5', no cat and a can type muffler. What are the good mufflers? good flow but not too noisy.
Well I would like to do the EVO 16G with a EVO exhaust and 02 housing, all ported. my concern is my 102k mile engine. I also know nothing about tuning. Loggers and palm pilots??!! Can someone who already has these devices tune my car? In other words are these tuning components temporary for tuning then are they not needed unless further tuning is needed? The EVO seems lik the turbo to go with. new technology and quick spool. i believe they floe 550cfm @ 15 psi. What does the 14B flow? I am considering a dejon intake pipe to replace the "accordian" hose. Worthwhile? I am a former Conquest Tsi owner and now a DSM man. I love the conquests but they take more $$$$$. The 2.0 is the small block chevy of imports, lots of cheap parts. Also open to suggestions for other mods. Especially the widest 17" wheels that will fit with wider tires, offset? Thanks, Mark

 

[miteclgst]

Mark,
When people speak of loggers and palm pilots they are talking about datalogging. Datalogging, simply put, is recording a bunch of sensor outputs during a pull. What a logger does is it gives you access to these output values and, after recording, allows you to sit down and view these values and decipher them. This helps tuning in several ways, first you can do your pull (normall 3rd gear WOT) and keep your eyes on the road rather than your gauges, and second since they are stored you can easily view them at your leasure and not have to commit a bunch of gauge reading to memory while flying down the road. The tuning part comes into play when you have upgraded injectors and some way of controlling them. Several people go with the GM-MAF setup and tune their cars souly with the MAFT while others, who opt to keep the stock MAS simply tune with devices such as a S-AFC. On the 1g cars you can monitor many things, the most important of these would be knock. In a nutshell you will tune for 0 knock, this means there is no detonation occuring anywhere in the RPM band, this increases power and the longevity of your engine. Detonation is your number 1 enemy, it will cause timing to retard and most importantly will kill your engine. These loggers access all of this information by connecting into the obd I port (1g's) or obd II port (2g's). You can then record at a sample rate, higher than 7 Samples per second, any of the sensor outputs of which the logger grants you access. Another sensor output that will help you in your tuning endevors is 02 sensor readings. These readings will give you a rough idea of where you are at when it comes to lean and rich conditions. The output is in the value of 0.## volts, which is your voltage reading across your 02 sensor. On the 1g's a good value to shoot for is around 0.89V this is with a fuel octane rating of 91. If you use fuel of an octane rating higher than that you will be able to run a sligtly lower 02 reading and still be safe (93-94 would be about 0.86V). This 02 sensor reading can get you in the ballpark, once you get a good 02 reading you will then be able to start fine tuning with your knock values. Another nice feature of the logger is that you can log RPM along with any other value, so one your do your pull and you being to review your log you will see precisely at what RPM you are running rich or lean, and then if you have a tuning device that will allow you to tune at different RPM levels you can adjust that device to run richer or leaner at that specific RPM. The 4g63 engine thrives on tuning, many setups that run less modifications have run quicker 1/4 mile times due to the high quality of tuning. Can tuning be done once and then be left untouched for any lengthy period of time? most likely no. When you tune your setup you are tuning precisely for the conditions that you are in at that moment, say mid summer. So the temperature is high, and the air density is low. This environment will greatly differ from say mid fall, when the temperature is cooler and the air density is higher. So say you tune your car in the summer and then you go and do a log in Fall, you will more than likely be running leaner due to the difference in air density. This can pose a problem when you tune your car so that is sits right on the line and is making it's peak power. I have experianced many of these same setbacks, tuning my car at WOT during a warm spring day and then logging the same at night can yield very different results even if nothing was touched between the two logs. Air density is the amount of air molecules packed in a predetermined amount of space. The amount of air molecules in that space during a point of greater density will be much larger than a point of low density. This means that when your cylinder fill up with your gas/air mixture on the intake stroke there will be much more air molecules present resulting in more molecules of air per molecules of fuel - aka leaner condition - then when the density is low. Air temperature is also a major player, in that on a warmer day your turbo is sucking in hotter air, which it then heats during the compression process, and is then sending that air through an intercooler which is being cooled by warmer air. Compared to a hot day when your intake temperature will be a bit lower this will result in a richer condition then a day with a lower air temperature. Normally when no changes are made to your vehicle (stock fuel, exhaust, and intake system) your computer will get your car close to where it needs to be, this might not be the perfect air/fuel mixture but it's good enough to get you from point A to point B. You are now fine tuning what your computer is adjusting for, thus taking some of the control out of the computers hands. Any car can benefit from a logger provided it has some way of controlling the fuel/air mixture, whether it has stock injectors and an S-AFC or upgraded injectors and some other kind of air/fuel management. The other fuel management options such as DSMlink and AEM EMS all have some kind of logger feature already built in to them. Well I hope this cleared up some of the questions you had about loggers and such. What I have here is simply how you can use a logger to tune WOT situations, at non-WOT conditions you computer will have a tough time compensating for the larger injectors, this will cause rich conditions because the computer can only fluctuate the amount of fuel you engine sees at specific RPMs by + or - 25%. Short and simple, you can log your non-WOT conditions and get that compensation as close to 0% as possible, this gives your computer the most swing in each direction to make up for any specific conditions that might be present. For furthur information about how to tune with a logger and other devices see this the defintive guide to piggyback tuning