Evo 8 ECU In 2g Works!!

[tom04841]

I have a question for any guys running a EVO ECU with a 2G MAF.

Which values did you copy over?

I'm sure you should copy MAF Size and Scaling.

But did you also copy MAF Smoothing and MAF Filter?
Also many of the DEFs don't have MAF Adder, but that is different as well.

And how much fine tuning did you have to do to get it right on?


Thanks much for any info.

I just coppied the values listed in the first post. These values put my trims within 10%, but then I rescaled using the how to on evom and they are now right at around 2%. Took me about 20 minutes to get it scaled right. Here is the ink to the post. How-To: Rescale your MAF (without pics) - evolutionm.net

 

[knochgoon24]

I don't remember my mid being anything like that. I thought that my mid was 20 stock but I can check tomorrow evening. Are you sure you have your definitions right and what rom are you using?

Who knows.

Hmmmm... maybe scaling my MAF would help my overly rich problems.

EDIT:
I just picked an Evo 8 knock sensor up on EBay for $35 used, so I should eventually be able to install that so we can see if it's a difference in sensors that is causing the "knock".

 

[jrohner]

I have a question for any guys running a EVO ECU with a 2G MAF.

Which values did you copy over?

I'm sure you should copy MAF Size and Scaling.

But did you also copy MAF Smoothing and MAF Filter?
Also many of the DEFs don't have MAF Adder, but that is different as well.

And how much fine tuning did you have to do to get it right on?


Thanks much for any info.

I did the scaling and size; my trims and AFR's are good.

 

[knochgoon24]

I did the scaling and size; my trims and AFR's are good.

See, my AFRs are fine. The fuel trims keep them under control. However, my car almost floods out when cold starting it.

 

[Hubbard 0]

See, my AFRs are fine. The fuel trims keep them under control. However, my car almost floods out when cold starting it.

That may require changing IPW for cold starts.

 

[knochgoon24]

That may require changing IPW for cold starts.

I plan on getting some larger injectors sometime this week anyway, so I don't see much use in dialing these in. I'm still rockin' the stockers.

A s16g just isn't fun running 14psi. Anything more, and I run out of injectors. I'll be happy with whatever power I can get with about 22psi. I figure that's where I'll stop.
The fuel system is the last thing I need to upgrade ATM.

 

[the_mork]

I can tell you that 22psi feels great. The difference is night and day.

 

[Ceddy]

The car ran well enough with just maf scaling and size changed. I never bothered to dial it in any better than that because I switched to SD.

I just coppied the values listed in the first post. These values put my trims within 10%, but then I rescaled using the how to on evom and they are now right at around 2%. Took me about 20 minutes to get it scaled right. Here is the ink to the post. How-To: Rescale your MAF (without pics) - evolutionm.net

I did the scaling and size; my trims and AFR's are good.

Thanks for the info guys.

I wasn't sure what items were MAF dependent and which were ECU dependent.

Seems like you just need to change MAF Size and Scaling.

 

[clockworktoy]

I didn't bother copying over the maf smoothing tables and my cars been running well. Fuel trims and afr's are also pretty good. One thing i did notice is that my cold start is not the greatest and if say drive to the grocery store and come back the car will turn on and be very harsh and almost turn off. Still trying to figure what that's about but just haven't had a whole lot of time to work on the dsm.

 

[jrohner]

I just disabled closed loop and it works awesome. AFR's are great, and the car runs better than ever. It feels so smooth when boost comes on, since the AFR's aren't stuck lean closed loop and all of a sudden go rich open loop (I ran 16-16.5 closed loop AFR). I like this a lot.

 

[Hubbard 0]

What method did you use? I just saw you could disable closed loop with bit 4 in FAA and I plan to do it that way.

 

[the_mork]

I'm excited for MrFred to finish the closed loop at 15.3 with wideband patch for 9653. I may consider disabling closed loop though since I don't have to worry about boost leaks and I am now fairly certain that my evo9 fuel pump is overrunning my FPR, open loop only would make it easier to just tune that out.

 

[Hubbard 0]

I'm excited for MrFred to finish the closed loop at 15.3 with wideband patch for 9653. I may consider disabling closed loop though since I don't have to worry about boost leaks and I am now fairly certain that my evo9 fuel pump is overrunning my FPR, open loop only would make it easier to just tune that out.

From what I understand, this is really just an alternative and more complicated way of getting an economy tune for closed loop instead of switching entirely to forced open loop, right?

 

[hediki12]

I'm excited for MrFred to finish the closed loop at 15.3 with wideband patch for 9653. I may consider disabling closed loop though since I don't have to worry about boost leaks and I am now fairly certain that my evo9 fuel pump is overrunning my FPR, open loop only would make it easier to just tune that out.

i thought i was the only one that thought the evo 9 fuel pump was over running my stock fpr... . yea this ft open loop thin sounds cool. just get the scaling right in close loop then turn that sob off. .

 

[jrohner]

What method did you use? I just saw you could disable closed loop with bit 4 in FAA and I plan to do it that way.

That's the method I used. Other ways trigger the CEL, so then you have to disable a DTC too.

 

[clockworktoy]

Ill probably look into disabling closed loop and see how the car runs.

 

[knochgoon24]

Well, I got my Evo 8 knock sensor in the mail today. What's the best way to get access to the knock sensor? I pulled the battery and the cruise control, but I still couldn't get a good hold on the knock sensor to break it loose. I cut a slot down the size of a 1-1/16" socket I had. It fit over it, but I can't get a wrench with enough leverage down in the space.

I would have fiddled with it more, but I had to get it put back together. It's getting dark here, and I have to drive it to work tonight.

 

[clockworktoy]

Well, I got my Evo 8 knock sensor in the mail today. What's the best way to get access to the knock sensor? I pulled the battery and the cruise control, but I still couldn't get a good hold on the knock sensor to break it loose. I cut a slot down the size of a 1-1/16" socket I had. It fit over it, but I can't get a wrench with enough leverage down in the space.

I would have fiddled with it more, but I had to get it put back together. It's getting dark here, and I have to drive it to work tonight.

Best way i found to access it is from under the car without the axle there. Remove and throw away the bracket holding the IM to the block and its right in the middle.

jrohner what rom are you using? I forgot to ask.

 

[knochgoon24]

Best way i found to access it is from under the car without the axle there. Remove and throw away the bracket holding the IM to the block and its right in the middle.

That bracket is already gone. I forgot to put it back on when I had my engine pulled last summer. Had the engine in and the car running before I found the bracket sitting in the basement.

Ugh, I really don't want to have to pull the axle.

 

[the_mork]

I've been playing with forcing open loop but I'm going back to closed loop at least for now. It looks like not only does the evo9 pump overrun my FPR but it does so quite badly and I don't even have the thing rewired. I maxed out the values for the fuel map at 0-90 load and 500-1000rpm area and only managed to hit 13.5:1 when my target was 14.5. The cruise areas responded quite well and opened up to 15.3:1 with little trouble. My injector scaling was back at 513 for this rom but I'll try switching to 542 again and see if I can adjust the car to where I want it. I should have 680s coming to my door tomorrow though so we'll see how much I play with this tomorrow.

 

[jrohner]

jrohner what rom are you using? I forgot to ask.

96530006 tephramod v510, and I disabled all emissions junk, since I don't have any of it, including the rear o2 heater. I haven't hooked up the map switching yet, or the clutch wire for NLTS (but I wanna get NLTS before hitting the track this weekend).

 

[clockworktoy]

96530006 tephramod v510, and I disabled all emissions junk, since I don't have any of it, including the rear o2 heater. I haven't hooked up the map switching yet, or the clutch wire for NLTS (but I wanna get NLTS before hitting the track this weekend).

Sweet im running the save rom and ive been meaning to pull off all the emissions stuff out of my engine bay but just haven't had time. Let me know how the NLTS works out for you ive been meaning to try it out but my dragging clutch has been making me forget about it.

 

[knochgoon24]

I finally got the Evo 8 knock sensor installed.

First thing to note: The pigtail on the sensor is about 6" shorter than the 2g one. That doesn't matter though, since the 2g engine harness has plenty of extra length to it.

Secondly, I was able to drop my low knock multiplier from 21 back down to 13 without the knock spikes... so far. I've only test driven it for about 10 minutes, but before I would definately have had the major spikes in that time.

Now, I am still getting some knock. But nothing more than when I had it set to 21. I may actually just need to tune it and see what happens.

But the initial report is good Now if someone else wants to buy and test an Evo 8 knock sensor and confirm that this might be the fix, that would be great.

Oh, and my knock sensor was $35 shipped used off eBay. I bet you could get one even cheaper off all the Evo guys that are switching between standalone systems. I just didn't have the patience. If someone is able to post in the classifieds there, that should make it real easy to get the sensor.

 

[the_mork]

I don't know if you knew but there is actually a "learning" procedure for a new knock sensor for evos. I really don't know anything about it other than that it exists so it may be a good idea to check into it.

 

[knochgoon24]

Hmmm... Maybe I'll try resetting my ECU to see if that will do anything. I just did about 500 miles of driving this weekend. The knock came back and showed up just about as bad as with the 2g sensor. I ended up bumping the low multiplier back up to 21. It seems to be acting just the same as the 2g sensor did. With knock at the same RPM/load spots.

On another note, a closer look at my old sensor showed that it was starting to leak.